Saw Blade Recommendations?

[Nil]

All,

I've used the search and looked through the articles, and I didn't find what I was looking for--recommendations for a good saw blades, one for my CMS and one for my BT3100.

I did find this thread (http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ht=table+blade) which helped explain what was different between the different types of saw blades, but it didn't give any specific recommendations for a brand of saw blade that performs best.

Both my saws use 10" blades, and I usually use the BT3100 for ripping, though I still want to get really clean cuts while ripping. I've been happy with the thin kerf Freund Diablo with my circular saw using the EZ Smart jig (I don't get any saw marks), so I'm leaning towards another Freund blade unless I hear otherwise.

The reason I'd like to get some new blades is that I often get blade marks when ripping with my table saw (I'm guessing part of my problem might be technique?), and I get tearout with my CMS.

So, what blades have worked well for people, and which blades should be avoided?

Thanks!

[drumpriest]

I was going to recommend a Forrest wood worker II think kerf, but if you are only ever using your table saw for ripping, you might consider the Freud 30T glue line rip blade.

If your miter saw is a slider, I'd go for the Frued 60T slide miter blade, if it's just a CMS (nothing wrong with that) then maybe something like an 80T fine finish blade.

[poolhound]

Choice of blade is highly dependant on what you are cutting and wether it is for ripping or cross cutting. The CMS is of course only a CC but the TS could be either. The general rule is less teeth e.g. 24 for ripping around 40 for general purpose and even more for smooth cross cuts e.g. 80 in ply or other fragile surfaces.

All the freud blades are good. I just got the diablo Thin Kerf 24T ripper at HD and it cuts like butter. I also recently got the Oshlun 60T for my CMS at Holbren. This is a great value blade (IMHO) although you can spend 4 times as much and get one of the fancier higher tooth specialty blades.

If you are having problems with tearout on your CMS do you still have the standard wide opening or have you made a ZCTP for it - they really help.

[Nil]

Jon,

How would you make a ZCTP for the back (not the bottom) of a CMS that wouldn't get widened up the first time you cut at an angle? I'm having more problem with tearout on the backside then on the bottom... Thanks.

[poolhound]

Jon,

How would you make a ZCTP for the back (not the bottom) of a CMS that wouldn't get widened up the first time you cut at an angle? I'm having more problem with tearout on the backside then on the bottom... Thanks.

Im not sure I have ever had any big issues with tearout at the backside, what are you cutting?

I take it that when you say the backside you mean the side against the fence. If so then you could just back it up with a piece of scrap.

[Knottscott]

I've tried a few, and tend to prefer a good quality thin kerf for the lower strain on the saw and greater flexibility with feedrate. A good 40 or 50T general purpose or combo blade will give excellent results in cut quality...most top GP/combo blades will rip comfortably to ~ 6/4", and crosscut fairly well too. A 24T ripper will plow through thicker material easily but tends to leave a rougher cut than the 40T-50T blades. Forrest makes an excellent 30T WWII blade that's clean enough for general purpose work, and rips with close to the ease of a 24T.... the 30T on sale from Amazon for $62 shipped. The Freud 30T LM74 glueline ripper is very effective but full kerf and really isn't recommended in material much over 1", so it's not as versatile as some other choices. If want want an even cleaner cut and don't rip over 6/4", the Freud LU88R010 60T blade offers a very nice cut and rips remarkably well for what the call a "crosscut" blade.

For a miter saw I'd tend to go with a higher tooth count, like 60T-80T. The Infinity 010-060 has a Hi-ATB grind with a 30° bevel that offers an exceptionally clean crosscuts and will still handle fairly thick material....it's a thin kerf with 0.104" kerf. It's versatile enough that it can even go on your TS as a very good general purpose blade when you need a cleaner cut....it rips well to ~ 5/4" and is excellent in ply and sheetgoods as well. The Freud LU91 is a good 60T miter blade too...not as versatile as the Infinity but is a good choice for CMS. For crosscutting on a CMS, the thin kerf is less important so full kerf is a solid choice too, which opens up more possibilities. Freud's LU74R010 or LU85R010 are great 80T pure crosscutters, but aren't as adept in thick material or rips. Freud's LU80 is another excellent choice in with similar applications and ultraclean cuts from its' Hi-ATB grind...~ $80. Infinity, Ridge Carbide, and Forrest all have great choices too. If you're bargain hunting, Holbren's got some nice deals on the Oshlun line (formerly Avenger), (not sure if any are TK) I've tried the 40T full kerf and thought it's a very good value, so I'd expect the crosscutters to be good quality for the price too.

Freud is always a solid choice. Their entry lines are the Diablo and Avanti series, plus they make the Sears 32808 and 32809 (Avanti clones), and they make the Ridgid Titanium line to similar standards. If you like the Diablo line, odds are great that you'd like their Industrial line better...they go on sale often within a buck or two of the Diablo and Avanti lines. Nothing wrong with venturing outside the box though...If you don't mind spending more, Infinity, Ridge Carbide, and Forrest are all top notch. My top choices would be the Forrest WWII 30T TK, and the Infinity 010-060 for your needs.

Avoid cheaping out on your blades...they make or break your setup. Some less expensive blades are ok, some are ok for a while before bowing out prematurely. For furniture grade work I don't like Skil, Vermont America, B&D, lower level Delta or DW, or the entry level Oldham....I really try to avoid the big box low end so I really can't comment on stuff like Irwin's Marathon, Hitachi, Bosch, Workforce, etc...some like them but I guess I'm picky.

[poolhound]

Nil,

I just received the latest issue of "Wood Magazine" in the mail yesterday. They republished a revised blade test article. It has lots of information and separates high and low end blades as well as full and thin kerf. If you dont already get it its worth a look (and possibly as subscription). You can also see the article online at:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf...The-Retest.pdf

[LinuxRandal]

Freud does have a thin kerf ripper, but it isn't a glue line model. It is the LU87 series (R for teflon and M for the other coating).


Also for just a CMS and the table saw (NOT A SCMS), I have been happy with the Freud LU85R010 ultimate crosscut blade. It is an 80 tooth, full kerf.

The BT can use full kerf blades, you just have to adjust your feed rates and calculations for amount of board removed when making cutlists (and riving knife).

[Nil]

All,

I really appreciate the insight & recommendations.

At this point I'm leaning towards the Freud LU88R010 for my mitre saw. The other option might be one of the Diablo series (I'm looking at the D1060 or D1080). However both the LU88 & all of the Diablos have positive hook angle. Is that really an issue?

For my table saw, I'm also thinking about geting another of the Diablo series--maybe the 50 tooth D1050... The D1040 was rated higher than the LU86 both by Wood magazine and various reviews on Amazon. It also has higher scores on Freud's "Fair...Better...Best" scale. Am I missing something?

Also, the description of the LU series on Amazon specifies a max cut depth of 2 3/4"... Why is this? I don't want to have to change my saw blade every time I want to cut something a little thicker than that (though it is fairly rare).

I guess I'm confused in general about why the Diablos get better reviews and have better scores from Freud than the LU series, but they cost less... What am I missing? Thanks again for the help,

Nil

[Nil]

One other thing, it looks like the Freud LU91 is one of their only ones with a negative hook, so that's probably what I should use for the mitre saw, right?
Thanks again.

[LinuxRandal]

All,

I really appreciate the insight & recommendations.

At this point I'm leaning towards the Freud LU88R010 for my mitre saw. The other option might be one of the Diablo series (I'm looking at the D1060 or D1080). However both the LU88 & all of the Diablos have positive hook angle. Is that really an issue?

For my table saw, I'm also thinking about geting another of the Diablo series--maybe the 50 tooth D1050... The D1040 was rated higher than the LU86 both by Wood magazine and various reviews on Amazon. It also has higher scores on Freud's "Fair...Better...Best" scale. Am I missing something?

Also, the description of the LU series on Amazon specifies a max cut depth of 2 3/4"... Why is this? I don't want to have to change my saw blade every time I want to cut something a little thicker than that (though it is fairly rare).

I guess I'm confused in general about why the Diablos get better reviews and have better scores from Freud than the LU series, but they cost less... What am I missing? Thanks again for the help,

Nil

How often do you cut thicker material? If all the time, contact somebody like Forrest and get a dedicated blade for it. If not, use the other, and just realize your going to have to adjust your feed rates and such, and use out of its "cutting range designed for", just may require you to get them sharpened/replaced a bit quicker.
The two main differences between the Diablo and the LU lines, are the thickness of the carbide (Diablo's are considered disposable), and their target audience (a cabinetmaker, verses a contractor/diyer).

One other thing, it looks like the Freud LU91 is one of their only ones with a negative hook, so that's probably what I should use for the mitre saw, right?
Thanks again.

A positve hook angle is fine on a CMS, NOT on a sliding compound miter saw. There can be some issues with real small pieces, but you don't normally see/hear them.

[Knottscott]

All,

I really appreciate the insight & recommendations.

At this point I'm leaning towards the Freud LU88R010 for my mitre saw. The other option might be one of the Diablo series (I'm looking at the D1060 or D1080). However both the LU88 & all of the Diablos have positive hook angle. Is that really an issue?

For my table saw, I'm also thinking about geting another of the Diablo series--maybe the 50 tooth D1050... The D1040 was rated higher than the LU86 both by Wood magazine and various reviews on Amazon. It also has higher scores on Freud's "Fair...Better...Best" scale. Am I missing something?

Also, the description of the LU series on Amazon specifies a max cut depth of 2 3/4"... Why is this? I don't want to have to change my saw blade every time I want to cut something a little thicker than that (though it is fairly rare).

I guess I'm confused in general about why the Diablos get better reviews and have better scores from Freud than the LU series, but they cost less... What am I missing? Thanks again for the help,

Nil

I don't think your missing anything, but others may have! Wood Mag's results didn't make alot of sense to me either as far as the Diablo getting a better rating than the Industrial series. It's likely a result of some variability but it's impossible to know where...there's or Freud's. Amazon reviews are not the most reliable either, and some negative ratings are aimed at Amazon, and not the product, which really confuses if you just glance at the star ratings. Could also be that the Diablo is more popular by sheer recognition. Regardless, they're all just opinion and should be kept in that perspective, including mien. The Diablo and Avanti series are of similar designs to the Industrial series (LU and LM) ...nearly the same design in many cases, but I don't believe they're sharpened quite as finely and don't always have all the features of the Industrials, and may not have carbide that's as large...advantage Industrial series. I have no explanation why Freud's scale would be different at all, and there's no reason they should be...they definitely market the Industrial series to the more demanding end of the market. If price is close, I'd definitely go with the Industrial over a Diablo or Avanti. There's no performance advantage in skipping the Industrial choices, but there's likely a performance advantage by choosing it. None of these blades are intended for thick ripping, but should be able to crosscut there way through full blade height as needed.

The LU88 has 15° positive hook, and I assume the D1060 is in that range or the same...the Avanti clone Craftsman 32809 has the same hook as the LU88. It's not as big of an issue for a CMS as a RAS or SCMS, but is a pretty steep hook for that application....no biggie. The LU91 is a better choice for straight use on a CMS. If you want to use the LU88 between your TS and the CMS, then I'd go with the LU88....it's a terrific TS blade.

HTH