I normally do box joints for drawer rears either on the TS or router. In order to keep blow-out down on the router.. you have to do a lot of backing which can be tedious, IMO. Doing box joints on a TS with a dado set leaves un-even bottoms and blown out sides if not backed well also. I have to spend a bit of time cleaning the joints with a chisel to ge them where I want them.
I saw some box joints cut several weeks ago on a TS using a Freud SBOX8 box joint set. Two blades only which are Silver Ice coated. Flat teeth to eliminate uneven bottoms. Printed side out.. 1/4" joints.. Printed sides facing each other gives you 3/8". And I do mean 1/4" and 3/8" as my micro-meter testified to..
I purchased the unit day before yesterday and spent about two hours fine tuning it on my TS to get it just right. Once registered the tuning wont be necessary as it will repeat itself. How did it do is the question after my effort and patience gettting it "just right".
Two and a half hours latter I have 240 box joints with no blow-out and dead square bottoms. Nice friction fit.. not too tight.. not to loose. The fine tuning paid dividends. I could have cut them in much less time, but I use a clamp on each end of the stock being boxed. Probably could get away with one, but I find two will give an invisible line when mated together. I like to flatten any cup on the stock on the fence to off-set being slightly off when assembled.
Cost was $79.95.. Worth..... Priceless.. IMO. This is a piece of "art" that Freud has come up with on this box joint set up. Simple.. quick and box joints that are as close to perfect as you will get with wood.
If anyone has a lot of box joint needs and has considered it to meet your needs... I would look no further. It's the mother-lode as I see it from the results I got...
I saw some box joints cut several weeks ago on a TS using a Freud SBOX8 box joint set. Two blades only which are Silver Ice coated. Flat teeth to eliminate uneven bottoms. Printed side out.. 1/4" joints.. Printed sides facing each other gives you 3/8". And I do mean 1/4" and 3/8" as my micro-meter testified to..
I purchased the unit day before yesterday and spent about two hours fine tuning it on my TS to get it just right. Once registered the tuning wont be necessary as it will repeat itself. How did it do is the question after my effort and patience gettting it "just right".
Two and a half hours latter I have 240 box joints with no blow-out and dead square bottoms. Nice friction fit.. not too tight.. not to loose. The fine tuning paid dividends. I could have cut them in much less time, but I use a clamp on each end of the stock being boxed. Probably could get away with one, but I find two will give an invisible line when mated together. I like to flatten any cup on the stock on the fence to off-set being slightly off when assembled.
Cost was $79.95.. Worth..... Priceless.. IMO. This is a piece of "art" that Freud has come up with on this box joint set up. Simple.. quick and box joints that are as close to perfect as you will get with wood.
If anyone has a lot of box joint needs and has considered it to meet your needs... I would look no further. It's the mother-lode as I see it from the results I got...


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