Using 7 1/4" circular saw blades

[poolhound]

I just started moving away from using the standard combo blade for everything and getting specialized blades for different jobs.

I just got the 24T freud ripping blade (HD variety) and it cuts through stock like butter, why didnt I do this ages ago I ask myself

Anyway as I can see myself adding to my blade collection over time I was wondering about using circular saw blades (7 1/4") as I have heard that this can be a good strategy when rough cutting lumber or reclaimed wood. I can see that the capacity will be less but will save your main blades from potential incidents with non wood matter, hard knots etc.

What are your thoughts, experiences and recomendations?

Thanks

Jon

[SARGE..g-47]

It will work fine, Jon. It will just limit you to thickness of stock. Most of the 7 1/4" blades are thinner than regarlar 10", but if you have a BT3 that is not a bad thing.

Good luck...

[Tom Slick]

I've used them for dirty lumber. they work fine but will deflect easily.

[Slik Geek]

I've used 7 1/4" blades in my BT3K for years for virtually all cutting. I found that I rarely needed the increased depth that 10" blades allowed. The cost savings was mighty handy. I also liked the much thinner kerf (less dust and wood waste).

These smaller blades came in handy when I was resawing boards about 3" wide. I would rip (on edge) just shy of half way through, flip the board while keeping the same face against the face, and do the second cut. Then it was just a matter of separating the two boards.

[os1kne]

I highly recommend using 7 1/4 inch blades for cutting laminate flooring. Laminate flooring really dulls a blade fast. The smaller blades are much less expensive and laminate flooring is usually only about 3/8" thick, so you don't need the depth provided by the 10" blade.

[BigguyZ]

If you do MDF, they say CS blades are good b/c they won't kill your good blade. I just got a WWII, so I'm going in the opposite direction as you are. Maybe if I was doing a LOT of ripping and wanted the speed, but I've never heard of anyone complaining about their WWII not performing well.

[poolhound]

If you do MDF, they say CS blades are good b/c they won't kill your good blade. I just got a WWII, so I'm going in the opposite direction as you are. Maybe if I was doing a LOT of ripping and wanted the speed, but I've never heard of anyone complaining about their WWII not performing well.

My theory here was to save the better blades and not use them for major riping tasks. Cutting lumber to approx size and then either jointing or planing to final size. Also I look for opportunities to reclaim wood so I would rather clean these boards up with a cheaper blade than to damage my good one. Often you are riping off old varnished surfaces or there may be brads or screews left hidden in there.

For those that already use the 7 1/4 strategy, what blades have you had good success with?

Jon

[BigguyZ]

My theory here was to save the better blades and not use them for major riping tasks. Cutting lumber to approx size and then either jointing or planing to final size. Also I look for opportunities to reclaim wood so I would rather clean these boards up with a cheaper blade than to damage my good one. Often you are riping off old varnished surfaces or there may be brads or screews left hidden in there.

For those that already use the 7 1/4 strategy, what blades have you had good success with?

Jon

That's a sound idea, and one I've thought of myself.

As far as blades go- I've used the Freud CS blades in a CS, and they worked well. I also have a Kobalt CS blade I used in a CS that cut very cleanly (for a CS that is) and was on clearance for only $30... A little thin for my tastes, but so are most CS blades.

[LarryG]

I have mostly used a 7-1/4" CS blade on a TS when cutting lots of MDF, and plywood (if I have only a few cuts to make, I don't take the time to change the blade). Wood cuts down into sawdust but MDF cuts down into talcum-like dust, so the thin blade is a plus. As mentioned, it also saves wear and tear on the more expensive carbide.

Care is required when using these thinner blades for rough or dimensional lumber. If your saw has a riving knife, it'll most likely have to be removed; and any internal stresses that are released as the cut is made will have even less room to work with before the blade gets pinched, possibly resulting in a kickback. Because of these two issues, I use an inexpensive 10" blade when ripping solid wood to rough size. All my blades are TK but the kerf size does allow use of the riving knife.

[poolhound]

Good feedback all.

Larry - thats a great point about the riving knife I hadnt considered the fact that the kerf would be much thinner and the riving knife could end up being too thick.

Jon

[Pappy]

I bought a Frued TK303 as a replacement CS blade and mounted it in the BT one day because of the thin kerf. It has a dedicated ZCTP and I bought another one for the CS.

The other point is valid, too. 7 1/4" blades are cheap and can be considered disposable when you don't want to chance damaging a better blade.

[poolhound]

How does tooth count relate to a 10" blade when using a 7 1/4" one?

I guess less is more......

[LinuxRandal]

How does tooth count relate to a 10" blade when using a 7 1/4" one?

I guess less is more......

Only to a point, and normally you will see it go the other way. For example, my miter saw blade is a 10" 80 tooth, LU85R010. The 12 " has 96 teeth and the 8" has 64 teeth.

However, most of the circular saw blades will have 16, 24, 40, or 60 teeth (the carbide ones). You can find a 30 tooth one, but it isn't one you normally pick up at your hardware store, normally.

[Slik Geek]

For those that already use the 7 1/4 strategy, what blades have you had good success with?

I've used Freud Diablo 24 tooth and 40 tooth models. Those came in handy when I was cutting treated lumber (that is often a bit wet).

I made a lame attempt at making an extra thin kerf riving knife so that I could use the Shark Guard with the 7-1/4" blades - but it wasn't terribly successful. (I goofed on the spacing from the blade). I'm not sure if the knife, even made out of hardened steel, will be strong enough.