Chainsaw Sharpeners

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  • JimD
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2003
    • 4187
    • Lexington, SC.

    #16
    I have nothing against somebody liking a powered sharpener but if you sharpen the chain as soon as it needs it, it only takes half a dozen strokes with a file on each tooth. I do not typically favor hand tools over power but chain saw filing is one case where I do. I am sure I do not keep the angle exactly the same all the time but my chains work well and it does not take me very long to sharpen. All I do is line up the marks on the guide occasionally and file until the edge is sharp. I count strokes because it typically takes about the same number on each tooth. My bar is 14 inches so there are not a lot of teeth but I am sure I can sharpen my chain faster than I can change it.

    Jim

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    • Warren
      Established Member
      • Jan 2003
      • 441
      • Anchorage, Ak
      • BT3000

      #17
      Each of my saws has two chains, a clean one and a dirt chain. I never use anything but a file on the clean cutters. I might use the Dremel on a dirt chain if it's really been abused. My experience is that powered sharpeners can easily remove too much, too fast . . . so practice on an old chain and use a light touch.

      Each used chain gets a close inspection, sharpening and depth gauge clean-up in the evening. Each bar is sheathed when not in use, each loose chain is stored in a large baggie after a coating of oil.

      Nick, I just reread your post. I'd suggest you spend a little time with an experienced user. Unless a chain has really been abused even a long bar shouldn't take more than a few minutes to sharpen. There are a couple of things to look for when sharpening, the shiny cutting edge, plane and angle of the file, etc. Much easier to learn by watching and doing than reading.

      A well tuned saw will pull itself though the tree, cleanly and fast. It will leave a nice pile of large cuttings. If you are using a smaller saw, I'd suggest a field vise. This little tool will hold the saw steady while you work on the cutters and depth guages. I've even put a couple of holes in a work bench and use it in the shop for sharpening.

      PS

      Don't forget your wedges and a heavy mallet A lumber crayon and well marked measuring stick help in cutting fire wood to length.
      Last edited by Warren; 02-24-2008, 07:58 PM. Reason: Additional info
      A man without a shillelagh, is a man without an expidient.

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