What seperates a cheapie biscuit joiner from an expensive one? It seems like there's a huge range of prices for what seems to be a relatively simple tool. Quality differnces, features?
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There are several variables - power and quality of the motor, smoothness and tolerance of the cutter arbor bearing, smoothness of the plunge, amount of sizes handled, ease of size pre-set changing, but mostly it's noticeable in the fence.
Biscuit jointers cut arcs with a 4mm. cutter in three common sizes and the accuracy of the cut depends on the lack of run-out in the cutter plus the accuracy of the fence.
See here for further details. HTH
RayDid I offend you? Click here. -
I started with one of the Ryobis that came w/ a blade that had too wide a kerf. Not realizing they aren't supposed to work like that, I put it on the shelf and swore them off. I read a post a couple years later that lambasted the Ryobi for the same reason.
I investigate further and decided I wanted to try again. Obviously, having the correct kerf cut is important. Also important to me: Accurate fence. I wanted R&P.
I went with the Makita. I suppose it would be nice if it could do FF biscuits, but on the PC you have to change blades for FF and I figured out a way to do FF biscuits on the router table in 1/10th the time that it would take w/ a hand-held biscuit jointer.
All in all I've used it (the Makita) for a few projects and I've decided I like it a lot. I'm trying to think of more uses for it because it is just such a fast, accurate way to join two pieces of wood.
BTW, I know some people say biscuits don't help align. Well, they do in one dimension. And the Makita is very precise, so the corners of a carcase are perfectly flush.
Oh, and it was fairly inexpensive. I think I got mine at Menards.Comment
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Ease of vertical adjustment -- to set height of cut for 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" wood etc.
Metric scale for plywood, MDF etc.
Repeatability of settings.
Independence of settings. i.e. tightening something does not shift height or angle unintentionally etc.
I just bought a Ryobi. The kerf is not excessive. I just checked some biscuits. Adding a bit of glue should tighten them up nicely for alignment. I will build a cabinet in the next two or three days and check the operation. They older biscuits are snug -- absorbed a touch of moisture apparently.
I would prefer a Porter Cable 557 -- but $$$
Triton just released an inexpensive model. I will look at it in the next few days. Apparently they have just appeared on the Busy Bee Tools web site.
I intend to do a large run of cabinets in the future. When I do I will replace the Ryobi I think.Comment
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The Porter-Cable 557 wins virtually all the comparison tests, beating or equaling the high-dollar Lamellos; either the DeWalt or the Makita generally runs a close second.LarryComment
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I know what not to look for....The Harbour Freight model. I have 1 and after lots of fiddleing, finally got it acceptable for 3/4 thick edge joining. but don't ever move the fence.
The fence is very important. It should be well constructed of metal, easily adjustable and stay true. Slot size is important.Eric
Be Kind OnlineComment
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I have the PC, and am very glad I went with it. The fence system is rock-solid, and one of the handles is mounted on the fence, which makes (to me, anyway) for much beter feel and stable operation. It comes with a 2" blade for the little FF sized biscuits, and I have found these to be very handy.Comment
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Someone will know the answer to this as I am not extremely familar with biscuit joiners. I have had a DW for several years and have only used it once. It has the standard O.. 10.. 20 size biscuits, but not a separate blade for FF as the PC. I would probably sell it with a little coaxing but....
The question is.... does anyone make a biscuit joiner for just FF biscuits?
Thanks...Comment
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Not that I know of. Ryobi did sell a detail biscuit jointer, and now it is sold under the Sears brand. It uses a few different sizes of very small biscuits.
I recently wanted to use biscuits for some face frames, but my Makita won't cut FF's either. This is the method I've come up with:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=73685Comment
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Thanks for the link Phil. I had to log into SMC to see it and we won't mention that I was trying to use the BT3C log in. The mind goes first they say.
I have seen something similar in the Eagle America catalog, but never payed any attention as I had no need. I was working some 1 1/2" wide face frames and they could have been done with FF biscuits I think. Just how wide is the FF biscuit and the cutter head? Would it have exceeded the 1 11/2" to show the slot on the end?
All the face frames are done now as I used my customary M&T's, but I did think to myself that the inner cross rails on top and bottom of drawers (chest of drawers) really don't need M&T's. Probably the corners of the frame don't either... but M&T is my style and has been for many years as I won't ever short-cut a joint.. even to the point of over-kill as for face frames probably are.
But.. I was thinking to re-enforce miters on picture frames.. etc. I am using miter joints for the base of the Chest of drawers.. but I will use Secret miter dove-tails there as they can take some hits from a vacuum cleaner if teens are ask to vacuum. Ya know what I mean.. Opps.... sorry mom!
Again... thanks and a very clever and quick set-up you have which would eliminate the plate joiner altogether. Well.. there goes that Domino sale you cheap boy you!
Last edited by Guest; 01-18-2008, 05:09 PM.Comment
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Are you using the FF size, Uncle Crack? And if so.. just how wide can the face frame to keep the cutter-head inside the width and not show?
I wish I had got the PC with the additional FF blade as someone mentioned at this point. I basically don't need the DW without the FF capability and may sell it.. but would have to turn around and purchase a PC for $199 to get the FF capability it appears.
I looked at slot cutters based on Phil's (Cgallery) post, but the narrowest blade width I saw was around 1 7/8". Most of my face frames are 1 1/2" and picture frames would be even narrower in most cases.
I may just grab a pound of coffee and see what I can "brew up" to solve the potential problem. If nothing else, it will keep me awake.
Thanks for the reply...Comment
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Sarge, most of my frames are fabbed from 1-by's, ripped down to 2-1/2" to 3" width. The FF cutter and biscuits fits comfortably in the 45-deg miter for these. Remember that the cutter head only goes partway into the work, so don't be too scared by the overall diameter of the blade. Using an FF biscuit as a guide, you can estimate the slot size at a little less than 1/8" slop at either end, and overall depth of the slot (in the middle) is just barely more than half the width of the biscuit at it's widest point. Next time I fit some up, I'll take exact measurements and let you know with a little more accuracy.Comment
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The slot cutter I use (a Whiteside) is 1-1/2". The bearing means you don't use the full diameter. So it cuts a 1-1/4" wide slot.
If you want to know how wide a piece of picture frame moulding you could use w/o the biscuit showing, you can take 1-1/2" (I'm allowing 1/8" of wood on each side of the biscuit--certainly doable), square it, and divide in half, and then take the square root, you get 1.06". So if you use stock at least 1.06" wide, you can get an FF biscuit in your miter with 1/8" to spare on each side of the slot.Comment
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Another thing to consider is that the material does not need to be wider than the biscuit. You can do a "half blind" slot, with the biscuit protruding into the inner portion of the frame, and then trim it off. The picture and matting will conceal the cut-off end, and the other end (toward the outside edge of the frame) would not be visible, the same as in a full width frame.Comment
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