I am in the market for my first router. Generally looking at a combo set. Plan on using it for med. duty use semi-often. I have been looking at the Bosch 2.25 hp combo, the Dewalt 2.25 HP combo's and the new Craftsman Pro 3 base kit also caught my eye. Again this is my first router and I have little experience using one. Also I am the proud owner of a Craftsman 21829. Would any or all of these pose a problem in mounting it? Any suggestions on different models or opinions on the current mentioned? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Check out this deal on the Milwaukee at HDT. If I didn't already have the Dewalt, I would consider this one, especially at this price.
http://www.heavydutytools.net/Script...?idproduct=563 -
BhuddaZilla,
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Hank Lee
ModeratorLast edited by leehljp; 11-24-2007, 06:08 PM.Hank Lee
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!
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I just purchased the Milwaukee Combo kit 3 weeks ago for $256 and it was worth every penny plus more. I just used it on a bed (see other post I just made on the other router thread) and it is the best router and combo to come along in my 35 years of wood butchering.
That price is like being offered an opportunity from the U.S. Treasury Dept. to carry off gold bullion from Fort Knox with their permission!
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A couple other brands/models to check. Porter Cable routers are high quality. Their older 690 series is often sold at a good price and works well for me. It is a 1 amp smaller motor than their 890 series or the Bosch mid-size but I think that is a minor difference. The PC 890 series router fixed base has the ability to have the bit height adjusted from above on a router table use, the 690 does not. Other than those difference, they are similar.
If you like the Bosch, and I think it is a good choice, you may also want to check out the Craftsman model that is the same except for color - the Craftsman is red. You can tell which Craftsman is made by Bosch by the appearance if you know what the Bosch looks like. The Craftsman is often sold around $200, sometimes a little below.
I have two old routers, one a Craftsman, that sit unused in a drawer in my shop. I have used both but almost never do so anymore. Routers are something that I think it pays to go with a better brand - to get a good collet and something well enough constructed to spin near 30,000 rpm for years without failing. If you can see a cheaper router in person, you can tell if the collet is decent (for clues what to look for, look at a PC, Bosch, or Milwaukee). You cannot easily see the size of the bearings or the way the windings connect to the rotor.
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Thanks a lot for the info. That Milwaukee looks like a great deal. I'm considering buying that one. Does anyone know if this model can be mounted in the 21829? Also, I have seen the Craftsman 26620 (Bosch clone) and it's actually on clearance right now for $108.00. Problem is that my local sears nor any of the 7 surrounding ones have any left.Comment
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Any router should able to mount to the 21829 even if it's not a direct fit. There are several ways to adapt them. One method is use the existing holes in the router table of the 21829 as a template to drill new holes in the plastic base plate of whatever router you want to mount. Another method would be to drill new holes in the router table itself.Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.
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As someone who currently has two routers and is looking for a third for Christmas I can tell you what I've learned. Keep in mind I have a dedicated router table and 90% of my router work is done from the table, not free hand.
1. Collet. This is the "hole" that the router bits slide into. Most bits are either 1/4 or 1/2 inch shafts. Which simply means you need either a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch collect to slip it into. LESSON: Get a router that comes with both collets.
2. Variable Speed. This is obvious a varaible speed router will let you adjust the speed or RPMs the bit is turning at. LESSON: Get a variable speed router, and make sure it is variable via a twist type knob, not via adjusting the pressure on the "trigger". Very hard to adjust trigger pressure of a router mounted on a table!
3. "Power". I tend to make several passes on my work, partly because I buy "discount" bits and don't know if they would hold up to chewing the entire thing in a single pass, and I have yet to encounter a problem with not having enough power. YMMV, but so far my 2HP has been fine.
4. Over/Under Table. The ability to adjust router depth and or change the bit from the on top of a router table. In other words, you dont have to bend down and work under the table, or pull the router up out of the table, to make bit changes and height adjustments. LESSON: You know, mine are both under table and it really just isn't a big deal for me. YMMV, but I would buy a router based on above items, I would treat this issue as a "bonus" if it have above table, but I don't know that I would require it.
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P.S. I'm sure I have more lessons to learn. And these are pretty beginner like statements, but I thought I'd toss out some things I'd learned along the line.Click. . . Hey, turn the lights back on! I'm still down here!
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