??? on Cleaning Wynn Filter

[JR]

I have the HF 2HP DC, fitted with a Wynn spun bond filter. Last night, after putting the final touches on some additions to my DC plumbing, I was getting a little less oomph than I had expected. After giving the filter a quick hosing with compressed air, things improved.

So, that begs the question, what is the best cleaning technique for this filter? Just air? Bang it with a stick? Wash it?

TIA

JR

[LarryG]

My Wynn spun bond went onto the machine only four months ago, and I've not yet had it back off, so I can't give you a very complete answer. All I've done so far is occasionally whack the filter with the palm of my hand (usually when I'm standing there in the shop wondering what the next move is: it makes a good alternative to scratching). It only takes a minute or so to work my way around, from top to bottom. Possibly because I've been doing this regularly, I've not noticed any drop-off in performance. If I do, a blast of compressed air will likely be the next step.

I chose the spun bond version specifically because it is washable and will theoretically be a "lifetime" filter. But, as I say, I've not yet had it back off the machine so I don't really know what the inside of those pleats are looking like.

[jarhead]

I also give it a few whacks with a palm of my hand (while scratching ) and blow it out with a compressor. Someone a while back posted a home-made filter pleat beater (don't recall if it was on BT3Central) which was ingenious.

edit: found the post to the pleat beater, but not sure if we can link to another forum. JR, I will PM you the link.

[THyman]

I've also hears of ussing an ROS with the sandpaper removed as to tends to shake the dust free.

[JR]

Thanks for the repsonses. I guess I may have to do some sort of more scientific method. Something like inspect the inside of the fiter, try some of the techniques mentioned, and observe the results.

Sounds like dusty experience, though....

JR

[jarhead]

As many times as I had to replace a bag, I noticed no matter how hard I smack the filter on the outside, caked up dust still remains in between the pleats. I definitely have to build something like this pleat beater.

Note to moderators: if it's against the rules to link to another forum, please remove the link.

[LinuxRandal]

I also give it a few whacks with a palm of my hand (while scratching ) and blow it out with a compressor. Someone a while back posted a home-made filter pleat beater (don't recall if it was on BT3Central) which was ingenious.

edit: found the post to the pleat beater, but not sure if we can link to another forum. JR, I will PM you the link.

jarhead, typically links to other forums for how to, or look at this design are allowed. But you could also post the link, without the www in front of it (making it a non link).

I would be interested in it, I still need to order a filter, and that was partially what was holding me up (and the bargains that keep my tool budget low).

[maxparot]

With the paper version tapping the filter or air are the only real options with the spun poly version a third option is washing it with a hose. I personally have the pleated version and just tap on it in a few spots every now and then. when the fine cake gets too tough for tapping then the compressed air does the trick but be careful not to get so close as to risk damage. If I had the spun poly I'd use the same technique and save removal and washing to a last resort.

[eddy merckx]

I also slap my Wynn filter occasionally and I'm sure it helps some. If I notice a serious drop in performance, I blow air on the the outside of the filter. This is what Wynn recommends, although they warn against doing it with much pressure. I think they recommend no more than 30 psi.

Eventually you'll have to remove the filter and vaccuum out the pleats. They get filled with caked dust that just won't come out any other way.

I would personally wouldn't install a beater device. I can't see how it won't damage the filter and consequently let fine dust escape. Maybe I'm wrong but I'd rather vaccuum than buy new filters.

There are two other things that really help. One is installing a sheet of screen door mesh between the filter and dust collector. This stops those big curl from jamming into the pleats. The other thing that helps is making a neutral vane which directs stuff down as it comes into the lower bag. If you ask very kindly, Loring might email you his excellent plan for making one. It's really easy and does seem to help.

Eddy

[JR]

I went out a little while ago and gave it a few whacks with the palm of my hand. It made a noticeable difference in performance.

Trying to follow Larry's lead, I wasn't sure what to do with the index finger of my other hand. I left it in my nose. I don't know if this is correct, though.

JR

[MilDoc]

I've had mine for 2 years. Washed it with a hose on high pressure once. Did a great job with no damage. Just don't use any chemical cleaners, soaps, etc.

[JR]

Experiments and Results

I just wasn't getting the pull from my tabesaw setup that I wanted (two 4" connections on back and bottom, and one 2-1/2" connection on my new Shark Gaurd), so I did a little experiment this afternoon.

The bag was just about ready to be emptied. Knowing this would be a contortionist's profanity festival, I determined to go all the way and resolve this question.

I turned on the overhead air cleaner full blast. Removed the full bag of chips. Aimed a light up in the filter. Stuck my head up underneath, wearing my best mask. Ran the shopvac hose around up in there. Gave the filter a few whacks with my hand. Then used the air hose. Here's what I found.

Shopvac - almost useless. It'll take the surface dust off the filter, but won't get much from between the pleats.

Whack with flat of hand - not too bad! This activity does release embedded dust from the filter. The pleats are very closely spaced, however, so this method seems to release only the inner 1/4" of caked dust from an area about 4"-6" accross. I'm not sure this is an appropriate task for the otherwise butt-scratching woodworker (see LarryG's post above), but I'm an open-minded guy.

Compressed air - excellent effectivity. Here's the trick, move the blaster horizontally, not vertically. The blast of air seems to separate only one pleat at a time. It instantly removes everything along about 6" of that pleat, though. So if you run the air up and down (my instinctive method), you get only one pleat's worth per pass, from a selection of about a begillion pleats. Running it horizontally removes 6" worth from a sequence of pleats on each pass. Do this in a spray painting motion, but a little slower, and you're golden.

My tablesaw dust collection is now 99% effective (completely unscientific measurement derived from lots of annying dust before vs. practically nothing on or behind the saw now, plus the reassuring sound of a bunch of small chunks moving through the system immediately after opening the blast gate).

HTH,
JR