Angle Finder Help

[L. D. Jeffries]

I just bought an angle finder to use on my saw blade to set up accurate bevels. Here's the problem: When I put the finder flat on the table saw surface it shows the table is about 1/2 to 1 degree from being level. If I put a level across the table it shows level...So now if I put the finder against the blade (vertically) it show the same deviation. Do I crank in the deviation when I'm setting the blade (crank in 45-1/2 degrees) or set it to right on 45 degrees? Must have a part of my brain on vacation cause I just can't think around this. What I'm trying to make is some small (6") square frames to put ceramic tile in for hot pads. Help-help-help!

[cabinetman]

The blade should be 45 deg to the table. The table doesn't have to be level. If you have a plastic right triangle, with the saw unplugged, crank the blade all the way up and set the triangle against the blade and adjust the tilt (45) to the triangle. When doing this just make sure the triangle is perpendicular to the blade (use your miter gauge) to hold it. This is about the easiest method.

Once you have set the angle, lower the blade to your cutting height, and check it again. Oh, don't forget to plug the saw in before you start cutting.

[scmhogg]

My angle finder has a tare or zero out option to compensate for any tilt on my table. You want to be 45 degrees from the table not true level.

Steve

[L. D. Jeffries]

Thanks guys. In the back of my mind I thought that we only need to deal with the saw blade in relation to the table top, but the more I thought about it the more I wasn't sure. Now I am! Knew I could count on someone to untwist my brain.

[mpc]

With the long bubble level on the table, are there any gaps between it and the tabletop? It's possible the table isn't dead flat... if there is a low spot near the blade that'll cause the long level and the angle finder to disagree.

Of course, either instrument could be off a degree too. As others have said, what's important is the actual angle between the blade and the tabletop. And you really care about the angle between the blade and whichever side of the tabletop your workpiece is riding on.

mpc

[mpc]

With the long bubble level on the table, are there any gaps between it and the tabletop? It's possible the table isn't dead flat... if there is a low spot near the blade that'll cause the long level and the angle finder to disagree.

Of course, either instrument could be off a degree too. As others have said, what's important is the actual angle between the blade and the tabletop. And you really care about the angle between the blade and whichever side of the tabletop your workpiece is riding on.

mpc

[Lonnie in Orlando]

You may be able to adjust the accessory table ...

Are you saying that the accessory table is not coplaner (sp) with the saw table?

If so, there may be enough play in the rail locks to bring the accessory table level with the saw table by adjusting the rails up or down.

> Remove the throat plate to avoid error in case it is proud of the saw table.
> Lay a straight edge across the saw table and the accessory table.
> Loosen one of the rail locks and adjust the rail up or down until the staight edge touches the saw table and the accessory table equally.
> Lock the rail clamp and adjust another one.
> Then move the accessory table to the other side and repeat.
> Do the same for the front and the rear rails.
> Probably need to do a couple of times and set at the best average position.

>> You can also shim one or more corners of the accessory table with metal duct tape to level it. (That's what the shiney spots are on the front corners of my accessory table in the picture.)

Do this with the accessory table only. You won't be able to get the SMT to be level with the saw table. It is designed to ride a little higher than the saw table.

- Lonnie