Panel Raising Question?

[Tarheel]

I need to make some doors for an old vanity and would like to make some raised panel doors. As I have never tried it, I have a concern.

I currently have the Dewalt DW618 (2- 1/4 HP) in my table. Is that power ample enough to spin a 2 1/2" panel raising bit safely and still get a good cut? I am assuming that I will take small cuts at a relatively slower speed.

Or.....do I need to save up to purchase the Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP monster?

Or....just forget the router and try my hand at a jig and my tablesaw?

I will be painting the doors, so will probably be using poplar.

Any suggestions would be helpful. (Sure would like that Milwaukee, but it may be a tough sell to LOML in view of the bit alone will cost me about $85!!)

Thanks in advance for your help!

Wayne

[Uncle Cracker]

I never advise against any excuse to get a new tool...

That said, you will probably get by with your midsized router if you proceed as you say and take incremental cuts at slower feed rates. Remember, you should also use a slower router speed to spin those big raising bits. The DW618 is variable, so you're OK there.

Oh, and one thing more, you will probably have to get a baseplate with a large cutout for your DW618 to accommodate those big bits.

[leehljp]

One thing that I do when I make big cuts like that is to set the fence to the final position. I then use about 4 to 6 - 1/8 or 1/4 inch thick plywood shims the size of the fence and all clamped to the fence. Oh, Make a cutout for the router bit. (If that doesn't make sense, think of it as setting the fence once and adding layers onto the fence outward until just the very edge of the router bit is showing. Take one layer off after each cut.)

I run the first cut for all of the pieces while all of the shims/layers are clamped to the fence, take the outer 1/4 inch shim off, run them through again; take another off and run again, etc. I use a 1/8 inch for the last two or even a couple of 1/16 inches so that the last run through takes off a very small bite.

This way, you do not have to keep moving the fence after every cut.

[drumpriest]

Tarheel, you should have no issue raising poplar with that router. The important thing is to get the speed down, you should run between 10-12,000 rpm, no faster. Then just take incremental cuts. Remember to relieve the back with a rabbet so that the panel will fit flush with the rails and stiles.

I've raised poplar a couple of times with a 2 1/4 hp PC and a 2 1/4 Bosch, you shouldn't have too many troubles.

[cabinetman]

All the advice so far is great. Hanks' method of shim layering works very good and makes it easier.

Doing the panels will also work well on the tablesaw. You will need a tall support clamped or added to the fence, and the cuts will likely need some sanding. Depending on the type of saw you have, the fence may have to be used to the left of the blade (for right tilt blades).

[ragswl4]

I need to make some doors for an old vanity and would like to make some raised panel doors. As I have never tried it, I have a concern.

I currently have the Dewalt DW618 (2- 1/4 HP) in my table. Is that power ample enough to spin a 2 1/2" panel raising bit safely and still get a good cut? I am assuming that I will take small cuts at a relatively slower speed.

Or.....do I need to save up to purchase the Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP monster?

Or....just forget the router and try my hand at a jig and my tablesaw?

I will be painting the doors, so will probably be using poplar.

Any suggestions would be helpful. (Sure would like that Milwaukee, but it may be a tough sell to LOML in view of the bit alone will cost me about $85!!)

Thanks in advance for your help!

Wayne

I have made raised panels in hard maple with a 2 1/4 Hp Hitachi with no problems. As stated earlier, set the speed to 10,000-12,000 and take small cuts. I suggest that you try a piece of scrap wood (the same type) to get the feel for the feed rate. Too slow and you will burn the wood, too fast and it will tear out.

[JimD]

I've done it successfully in oak with a PC 690 so I am sure it will work. Poplar cuts noticably easier than oak - more like softwood (which I've also done raised panels in with my PC690).

You need a router table for panel raising cuts.

You should look around for the bits you will need. I like MLCS - free shipping. A big panel raiser would be more like $60 than $85. You should be able to get a cope and stick and a panel raiser for around $100.

Jim

[ragswl4]

I've done it successfully in oak with a PC 690 so I am sure it will work. Poplar cuts noticably easier than oak - more like softwood (which I've also done raised panels in with my PC690).

You need a router table for panel raising cuts.

You should look around for the bits you will need. I like MLCS - free shipping. A big panel raiser would be more like $60 than $85. You should be able to get a cope and stick and a panel raiser for around $100.

Jim

Holbren.com has two sets $60/$65. Includes all three bits if it is the profile that you want. I don't have them but others have said his bits are pretty good. Gives a 10% discount to BT3 members.

[cgallery]

I've never done raised panels, and I don't mean to hijack this thread. But what about those vertical panel raising bits? I'm surprised more people don't use those to avoid the speed issues and the thought of a 3" anything spinning in my router.

Or do they introduce some other compromise?

[leehljp]

I've never done raised panels, and I don't mean to hijack this thread. But what about those vertical panel raising bits? I'm surprised more people don't use those to avoid the speed issues and the thought of a 3" anything spinning in my router.

Or do they introduce some other compromise?

It takes a different setup. I made a hutch with raised panel doors a few years ago and used a vertical panel bit. BUT, I had a table with a horizontal router. and laid the boards flat on the router table. It worked fine but it required a good bit of hold down strength. I had to put some hold down feather boards to make it work right.

AS to vertical bits and in a vertical situation - some sort of jig will be helpful to keep the panels perfectly vertical. Something like a jig on a saw. But it would work. I don't know why verticals aren't used more.

[ragswl4]

I've never done raised panels, and I don't mean to hijack this thread. But what about those vertical panel raising bits? I'm surprised more people don't use those to avoid the speed issues and the thought of a 3" anything spinning in my router.

Or do they introduce some other compromise?

I use vertical panel raising bits. There are some advantages/disadvantages to these bits.

Advantage:

You can spin them faster, I use 18,000 rpms as specified by the manufacturer.
I feel more comfortable spinning a 1.25 inch bit rather than the larger horizontal bits.
I think they are easier to use, just move the fence back each time for the next bite.
Opening in router fence is smaller and I think reduces tear out.

Disadvantages:

Can't do curved panels (Cathedral Panel)
Routing panels in the vertical is a little more difficult at first as it feels awkward holding that large panel against the fence, but gets easier with practice.

SetUp:

I mounted a 6" high vertical aux fence to my Incra fence for vertical stability. This works out well. Just have to be sure you keep the bottom of the panel against the fence. If the pressure point gets above the fence the bottom of the panel will tend to kick out. I use two push blocks when performing this operation. The push block at the back end of the panel has a tab that fits over the end of the panel. That push block is the GRR ripper. I have recently routed 16 door panels with no problems. If you have ever edge jointed a board, this process is very similiar, at least moving the work piece is. The Incra fence allows me to make very precise depth of cut. My last cut is 10 thousandths and gives a very, very smooth finish. I also use a setup block to set the final depth on the Incra scale and this gives me perfect repeatable depths on all panels.

Added Note: With a vertical panel raising bit it must be remembered that the panel edge that is sitting on the router table is becoming thinner and thinner with each pass. If your pressure is applied by the push block too low on the panel it can cause the top of the panel to move away from the fence. The result is that you take a deeper bite on the edge of the panel and if this occurs near the end of the process, the edge may be too thin for the groove in the stile or rail. This can be fatal for the panel. Only happened once, now I am very careful to keep the panel against the fence.

[Tarheel]

Thanks so much to everyone who responded.

Now I feel a lot better with using the DW618 to try out panel raising. And. Yes there are a few places where I can go and check out the bits. (Just need to get LOML's approval for the profile that she would like.

Again, thanks a bunch! (It seems that any question that I raise here, I get answers I can trust. Especially based upon the tremendous volume of experience!)

Now, on to my panel raising challenge!

Thanks again!

Wayne

[drumpriest]

Wayne, one other small suggestion is that if you are not currently using them, consider jointer blocks for controlling things that are going into your router. I find that they allow for a great amount of control without getting my precious little fingers too close to the action.

[jhart]

Wayne, looking forward to pictures of the finished product. Always exciting to try doing something new. Good Luck.