HF HVLP Sprayer and Resisthane Plus

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  • ragswl4
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 1559
    • Winchester, Ca
    • C-Man 22114

    HF HVLP Sprayer and Resisthane Plus

    Well just got around to shooting a test board for my cabinet project. I used Resisthane Plus (Satin) with the HF HVLP Spray System. I couldn't be happier with the results. It took 4 thin coats but the results are fantastic.

    The spray system worked flawlessly and the Resisthane flowed out nicely and is giving a finish somewhere between satin and semi-gloss. I sanded lightly only after the 3rd coat.

    Much appreciation to MSCHRANK here on the forum for helping me with my decision on the top coat, HF HVLP Sprayer and some guidance on using both to boast my confidence in the process. Gotta love this forum!!
    RAGS
    Raggy and Me in San Felipe
    sigpic
  • footprintsinconc
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2006
    • 1759
    • Roseville (Sacramento), CA
    • BT3100

    #2
    is resisthane water or oil base, and secondly did you get it from hd or lowes or elsewhere?
    _________________________
    omar

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    • atgcpaul
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2003
      • 4055
      • Maryland
      • Grizzly 1023SLX

      #3
      Originally posted by footprintsinconc
      is resisthane water or oil base, and secondly did you get it from hd or lowes or elsewhere?
      Resisthane is water-based and I could only buy it direct from the manufacturer,
      Hood Finishing. http://www.hoodfinishing.com/ Next to shellac, it is my
      favorite finish. Super low odor, fast drying, and easy to use and get good
      results with. I've only sprayed it but I've read it works well for brushing, too.
      It's my understanding that it won't "burn in" like solvent based lacquers, but it
      performs so well that it doesn't matter to me and it's much more environmentally
      sound.

      One gallon was ~$25 (plus shipping).


      Paul

      Comment

      • pecker
        Established Member
        • Jun 2003
        • 388
        • .

        #4
        It's also available from Highland Hardware and their description says it provides 100% burn in and is not suitable for brushing. My only complaint with it is that the clarity is a bit less than conventional lacquers...most noticeable on darker woods. You can build it up to a thick finish and polish it nicely also.

        http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...OD&ProdID=1216

        Comment

        • Jeffrey Schronce
          Veteran Member
          • Nov 2005
          • 3822
          • York, PA, USA.
          • 22124

          #5
          Resisthane won best value in an extensive review of water bourne finishes a few months ago. I know of a lot of folks getting great results from the product. It's a shame they don't have better distribution.

          Comment

          • footprintsinconc
            Veteran Member
            • Nov 2006
            • 1759
            • Roseville (Sacramento), CA
            • BT3100

            #6
            thank you for all the replies! boy that finish shines.

            i dont mean to high jack the thread, but i have a question with regard to which product i should use to finish my workbench top with.

            i need to finish the top of my work bench which is about 3' x 9'. half of it is mdf and the rest of it is maple. the mdf and maple have been sealed with a oil-based minwax sealer. the rest of the table is finished with polyurethane. the top and the cabinet doors are the only things left to finish. i was planning on buying lacquer to do the rest but someone suggested that polyurethane is better since it is more durable.

            now i see a post on resisthane and now i am undecided. what is your suggestion?

            edit: oh, by the way, what is burn-in?

            thanks in advance!
            _________________________
            omar

            Comment

            • Jeffrey Schronce
              Veteran Member
              • Nov 2005
              • 3822
              • York, PA, USA.
              • 22124

              #7
              Short answer: Workbench top = use Poly.

              Originally posted by footprintsinconc
              thank you for all the replies! boy that finish shines.

              i dont mean to high jack the thread, but i have a question with regard to which product i should use to finish my workbench top with.

              i need to finish the top of my work bench which is about 3' x 9'. half of it is mdf and the rest of it is maple. the mdf and maple have been sealed with a oil-based minwax sealer. the rest of the table is finished with polyurethane. the top and the cabinet doors are the only things left to finish. i was planning on buying lacquer to do the rest but someone suggested that polyurethane is better since it is more durable.

              now i see a post on resisthane and now i am undecided. what is your suggestion?

              edit: oh, by the way, what is burn-in?

              thanks in advance!

              Comment

              • ragswl4
                Veteran Member
                • Jan 2007
                • 1559
                • Winchester, Ca
                • C-Man 22114

                #8
                Got the Resisthane Plus from Highland Hardware, $24.99 + $7 shipping. I could not find it locally.
                RAGS
                Raggy and Me in San Felipe
                sigpic

                Comment

                • mschrank
                  Veteran Member
                  • Oct 2004
                  • 1130
                  • Hood River, OR, USA.
                  • BT3000

                  #9
                  Originally posted by footprintsinconc

                  edit: oh, by the way, what is burn-in?

                  thanks in advance!
                  Though I haven't heard that term before, I'm assuming it's the ability for a finish to cross-link or "melt" into the previous coat. Laquer does this, and it makes it a forgiving finish in that respect. Unless you have dust nibs or bugs stuck in the previous coat, there's no need to sand.

                  This is opposed to finishes like polyurethane, where each successive coat simply lays on top of the previous one without forming a strong chemical bond. That's why it's important to apply successive coats within a short time frame (before the previous coat has completely hardened), or sand the previous coat to provide scratches that the next coat can mechanically "bite" into.

                  Though it's been mentioned before, I highly recommed Bob Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishing if you want to learn slightly more than you need to know
                  Last edited by mschrank; 08-24-2007, 10:41 AM. Reason: spellin
                  Mike

                  Drywall screws are not wood screws

                  Comment

                  • ragswl4
                    Veteran Member
                    • Jan 2007
                    • 1559
                    • Winchester, Ca
                    • C-Man 22114

                    #10
                    There was also some discussion on brushing this on. There are directions on the can for brushing, yet the manufacturer's website recommends using another product if you want a brush on finish. I haven't tried brushing it but is sprays so well I wouldn't try.
                    RAGS
                    Raggy and Me in San Felipe
                    sigpic

                    Comment

                    • footprintsinconc
                      Veteran Member
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 1759
                      • Roseville (Sacramento), CA
                      • BT3100

                      #11
                      thank you for the help with the decision, where to get it and with the defination of burn-in.

                      i will go with polyurethane for the rest of the work bench. i might just put another coat of sealer on all the mdf parts left to be finsished. this time i might just paint it on instead of spraying.

                      regards all,
                      _________________________
                      omar

                      Comment

                      • JimD
                        Veteran Member
                        • Feb 2003
                        • 4187
                        • Lexington, SC.

                        #12
                        Resisthane burns-in, it does not require sanding between coats.

                        I have used the clear and am currently using the white. I have brushed both. I would not try to brush a large cabinet or door with Resisthane because it dries too fast - you would not be able to maintain a wet edge. It would not be a disaster but you would not get a smooth finish without sanding the final coat and rubbing out the finish. It brushes well on smaller surfaces you can cover quickly, however. Brushing is really handy for touch up. If you project is small, you could finish totally with a brush but for most applications I think you will want to spray.

                        One advantage of resisthane that I really like is that it is hard to get it to run. I have sprayed other finishes and I am not real good with my spray finishing technique. On vertical surfaces, if I try to get a good wet coat, it is not unusual to get a run. With resisthane, I almost cannot get it to run. I think this is due to its really quick drying plus probably other factors. Regardless of why it works this way, I appreciate this attribute.

                        Jim
                        Last edited by JimD; 08-25-2007, 12:25 PM.

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