Shop-built outfeed table for Jet cabinet saw

[GaryA]

In the recent Shopnotes issue 93 (pg 30) they had an article (picture below)on the perfect outfeed table I want to build (except larger) for my Jet 10" cabinet saw.

What I dont understand though on this outfeed table, or any plans I've seen for an outfeed table is how it is supposed to attach to the back rail of my Jet JTAS (XACTA II fence) without interfering with the fence support leg. I took a picture of what I'm talking about. This leg seems only to support the fence on the back rail, but I dont see any mention of it in the manual. I guess a couple of questions for those that know, or have this saw:

1. Is that support piece necessary?
2. If yes, how do I attach an outfeed table without it being in the way?

Thanks

[blame]

i see what your saying but why couldn't you move it further away from the rail by using another pcs of angle iron? just a thought.

blame

[LarryG]

My PM2000 fence doesn't have that; the fence is supported by two UHMW "glides" on the bottom, one near each end. Interesting since both JET and Powermatic are under the same ownership.

I think blame is on the right track. Fabricate some sort of intermediate support to connect the outfeed table to the rear rail, and attach it to the rail with flathead machine screws.

[GaryA]

Not a bad idea at all on the angle piece blame...thanks.

Larry - the Jet has the exact same 2 "glides" under the fence as you refer to on the PM....but for some reason it also has this "foot" (not sure what to call it). If I look at the parts diagram breakdown for the fence, oddly, it doesnt even show it. It definitely has no mechanical tie-in to the fence lock down either. In fact - I think that "foot" is almost lifting the fence off the table slightly more than it should be. I may call WMH today. I may also temporarily try to remove it to see what it does to the fence action??

[Thom2]

Not a bad idea at all on the angle piece blame...thanks.

Larry - the Jet has the exact same 2 "glides" under the fence as you refer to on the PM....but for some reason it also has this "foot" (not sure what to call it). If I look at the parts diagram breakdown for the fence, oddly, it doesnt even show it. It definitely has no mechanical tie-in to the fence lock down either. In fact - I think that "foot" is almost lifting the fence off the table slightly more than it should be. I may call WMH today. I may also temporarily try to remove it to see what it does to the fence action??

I think it's only function is to serve as a way to keep the fence from dropping if you didn't have extension tables. That foot would ride on the rear rail where there's no table to support the fence.

[LarryG]

Thom is correct, but I was just surprised that my fence (which appears absolutely identical to the one pictured, except mine is painted Powermatic Gold rather than JET White) didn't include this foot in the package. I don't even recall seeing a tapped boss on the bottom to receive it. I'll check that out tonight.

Gary: I've been working on a design for an outfeed table myself, and mounting it will also involve drilling holes in the rear rail. Kinda hard to work up the nerve to do that, ain't it?

[GaryA]

Thom is correct, but I was just surprised that my fence (which appears absolutely identical to the one pictured, except mine is painted Powermatic Gold rather than JET White) didn't include this foot in the package. I don't even recall seeing a tapped boss on the bottom to receive it. I'll check that out tonight.

Gary: I've been working on a design for an outfeed table myself, and mounting it will also involve drilling holes in the rear rail. Kinda hard to work up the nerve to do that, ain't it?

I know what you mean...almost like watching your kids get a painful shot
Let me know what you come up with on an outfeed design...I'd be interested to see. I think I want something that will flip down or easily remove (like the one in shopnotes) based on my tight setup.

Also -I'll post a pic of the underside of my fence where that foot comes out.

[GaryA]

OK, took off the foot (see pics - was just 2 hex machine bolts in a block, and the adjustable foot in the block). You're exactly right Thom.

Now, though, after I removed it, the fence was sitting higher back towards the base/lock down, so I lowered the adjustment screws (front) to get it more flush/level. How high should the fence sit above the table? Should it just be riding and putting its weight on the glide pads? Also - I'm sure its just my imagination, but it seems that there is now more deflection when I push on the back part of the fence (where the foot was) - how much should this deflect?

[LarryG]

Without the foot in place, the fence tube has no choice but to bear on the glide pads. But you will want to adjust the UHMW sides so they have the proper clearance.

My fence package included a couple thin plastic shims, I'd say ~1/32" thick. These are placed on the cast iron top and then the UHMW side slabs are tapped down (dead blow, rubber mallet, etc) until they lightly touch the shims.

On the deflection question, do you mean downward, or side to side? If the latter, I found that the statement in the manual that "your fence has been properly adjusted at the factory" was the usual big fat lie. If you carefully adjust the Allen-head screws on the cross-T of the fence, you should be able to get things such that it locks down really tight and won't exhibit any appreciable deflection unless you really lean into it.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

The photo of the outfeed table in the article shows what appears to be a Bieseymer (sp?) brand fence which does not require rear rail. It rides on table like Larrys PM fence.

[Thom2]

My fence package included a couple thin plastic shims, I'd say ~1/32" thick. These are placed on the cast iron top and then the UHMW side slabs are tapped down (dead blow, rubber mallet, etc) until they lightly touch the shims.

If I'm picturing this correctly, wouldn't your stock want to catch on these?


If I'm not picturing this correctly, enlighten me

[LarryG]

You're picturing it correctly, Thom, but I neglected to mention the final step of the operation:

3. Remove shims from beneath fence side panels and place in drawer, where they shalt remain until the next time you need them.

[blame]

here is a pic i drew, very rough but it uses a hinge connected to the angle iron this allows the use of the stock fence and makes the ext. table fold down you would have to drill holes in the angle iron on saw for the hinge bolts.

the green is the tables
black is the angle iron
blue is the hinge
red is the table frame

this is how i would tackle this problem

i would use a piano hinge and run it the full width of the ext. table
as far as the length i would measure your table height and make it 2" shorter
for support i would run 2 angled supports from the rear of the ext table frame down to the mobile base or stand so they fold back into the ext. tables frame work so it will fold down flat to the base stand i would also suggest you lamante the top and cut a dado for the miter slots

blame

[LarryG]

Not that it matters, except to make conversation, but ... I looked at my PM fence last night. It has only one glide on the bottom, at the back (I could've sworn there were two, one at each end). There's no mounting provision for the ball-type foot that Gary's fence has, nor is there any mention of such a device in the manual. Otherwise, my fence appears virtually identical to his.

[Thom2]

Not that it matters, except to make conversation, but ... I looked at my PM fence last night. It has only one glide on the bottom, at the back (I could've sworn there were two, one at each end). There's no mounting provision for the ball-type foot that Gary's fence has, nor is there any mention of such a device in the manual. Otherwise, my fence appears virtually identical to his.

Well after seeing it on his, I can almost guarantee that the Beis on my 22124 *WILL* have one at some point (probably soon as I don't have an extension table mounted yet) ... a leg leveler, a block of scrap, a tap or threaded insert .... hmmmm