Eurika, I've Found It

[Bruce Cohen]

A few weeks ago I was complaining about constantly changing from a rip blade to a cross cut. I always felt that any blade meant to do two seperate functions had to have some engineered compromise built in.

Well, I just got my hands on the Freud P-410 Fusion blade and spent the afternoon testing it out. And in one word (and for me that's something), EXCELLENT.

I first cut 3/4 Maple Ply, no chipping at all and glass smooth cut.

Then I crosscut 5/4 hard Maple, did as good of a job as my Freud LU80R010 (thats the one with the HiATB teeth.

I also ripped some 5/4 hard Maple (the only hard wood I had in the shop), again, perfect rip, as good as my Freud LM74R010, although there were still a few burn marks (I guess Maple Is like that).

Anyway, unless something really stupid happens, I guess I've turned into a "one blade man".

I'll give this blade a few weeks and then possibly list the other two Freuds in the classified section.

Bruce

[cgallery]

That is a full-kerf blade, right?

And I guess a number of us have strayed, so I gotta ask: R U using it on a BT3K-type saw?

[steve-norrell]

Well, I just got my hands on the Freud P-410 Fusion blade and spent the afternoon testing it out. And in one word (and for me that's something), EXCELLENT.
Anyway, unless something really stupid happens, I guess I've turned into a "one blade man".

I'll give this blade a few weeks and then possibly list the other two Freuds in the classified section.

Bruce

Bruce and cgallery:

Glad to hear your positive comments on the LU140 Fusion blade. See http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=31414 for my reasons.

Mine (F410) is not coated with that red stuff and is a full kerf (1/8 in.) blade. I have not had a reason to test it so I can't add to your comment except to say that all reviews have been very positive.

Regards, Steve

[Bruce Cohen]

Yes, its a full kerf blade, and I'm using it on a BT3100.

I do have the saw connected to a dedicated 20 Amp circuit and do not use an extension cord.

In fact, once I ran the 20 Amp line, I never had trouble with the saw bogging down no matter what was fed through it, and I've always used full (1/8") blades. The one thin kerf I did try (it was a Frued, left a lot to be desired.

BTW, I did have a blade break a tooth (partial) and imbed itself in my chest.

It was a small piece and I wasn't really hurt, although it did draw blood. Freud replaced the blade, immediately (this was the 80R010). Since then, I"ve taken to wearing a leather welders apron when I use the saw and my router. Guess the event shook me up a bit. I'm not to partial to shrapnel, then and now.

Bruce

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning Bruce...

If you get hold of any 8/4 or 10/4 hard-wood stock and use the Fusion to rip it, I would appreciate if you post or PM the results to me. If the 40 teeth can handle the waste on thicker stock as well as a 24T flat rip blade without burn, I might want to try one.

One company says their 40 tooth can... but I don't agree with them. Curious to see if the Freud will without dropping cash on the counter before the fact. ha.. ha...

Regards..,

[drumpriest]

Hmm....isn't this blade 100$? I wonder how it does when compared to, say, the WWII.

[crokett]

I have a Porter-Cable Razor - 50 tooth combination. I've had it 3 years and I have not had another brand blade on the saw since except my cheapie for cutting laminate flooring.

[cabinetman]

BTW, I did have a blade break a tooth (partial) and imbed itself in my chest.

It was a small piece and I wasn't really hurt, although it did draw blood. Freud replaced the blade, immediately (this was the 80R010). Since then, I"ve taken to wearing a leather welders apron when I use the saw and my router. Guess the event shook me up a bit. I'm not to partial to shrapnel, then and now.

Bruce

I prefer full kerf blades (1/8"). They feel more stable and will probably run cooler than a thin kerf. I've tried some of the HD blades like DeWalt, in 50T, 40T, and 32T. I haven't really gotten into the combo blades. I change a lot with running different materials. I could be ripping maple one minute and then need to cut some laminate. Every change I've got to check the indicator on the Bies. It's a fire drill.

I would find teeth on the floor inside the cabinet on the Unisaw. Most of the teeth that come loose will do so during the cut and get projected down. I got a sting in the shoulder once that felt like a bee sting. Sure 'nuff a tooth hit me and poked a pretty good hole, but didn't stay in. I guess it was the angle of dangle or something like that. After that you think how close your shoulder is to your face. A welders apron wouldn't have helped me. Maybe we need a full carbon fiber suit to work in the shop.
.

I always get shop updates from my ex employees that have their own shops. One guy had an employee that got a "sting" in the forehead. A tooth went in pretty deep. He said it too felt like a bee sting. As of late they haven't gone in to take it out. Maybe it is safer just to leave it there. If it was me, I'd want it outta there.

[Bruce Cohen]

Sarge-

Sorry to tell you this, but after reading the info sheet that came with the blade, here are the soecs:

Hardwood & softwood Rips Min.- 3/8", Max - 1 1/2" (bummer)

Cross cuts Min- 3/4- 3 1/2"

later on this week, I'll try to cut and rip stock outside of these tolerances and post the results. Hope I don't mess up the blade.

So far, it just wonderful.

Bruce