How does the anti kickback paws work on a RAS?

[ryan.s]

I've seen many saws with the anti kickback paws located on the front of the blade guard but can't seem to grasp the concept of how this is suppose to work? I figure if the workpiece binds it would be thrown towards the back against the blade guard? Don't laugh at the picture below, it was the best I could do with MS Paint to try to describe what I'm talking about. It's suppose to be a shot from the side of a blade guard, blade and anti kickback paws with the arrow showing the direction of blade spin.

[Thom2]

You'll never use these in a standard crosscut setup on a RAS, they're only used during ripping operations. When ripping on the RAS you're actually feeding into the opposite side of the blade. On my craftsman, there's a splitter/pawl assembly on the rip-outfeed side of the blade, and then a sheild on the rip-infeed that's to be adjusted so that the stock can't lift off the table.

Crosscutting and Ripping are two entirely different setups and approaches on the RAS, be sure you understand the operations thoroughly before ever attempting a rip. Personally I've only ever ripped on the RAS one time and it scared the livin' bejeezus outta me.

[ryan.s]

Thanks Thom - Now it seems to make sense. For the life of me I couldn't figure out how it would work during a cross cut. I don't plan to use the RAS for anything other than cross cutting dados.

[Uncle Cracker]

I gotta ditto Thom's advice. Years ago, the first time i tried ti rip on my RAS, it threw a 1x6 right through my garage wall, siding and all! I darned sure tightened up after that, and even now I don't like to rip with the danged thing.

[LinuxRandal]

If you get the Mr. Sawdust book (one of the RAS bibles), it explains a sled for ripping. That said, if you have other ways of doing it, and feel comfortable with them, by all means do them.

However, the RAS's I've seen, you can lift the pawls out of the way, and don't have to worry about them, and if you ever sell the saw, the next buyer gets the safety devices with it. (why I think they should be LEFT with the saws).

[cwsmith]

I have a Craftsman RAS that I purchased new in the early 70's. At present, the RAS is disassembled and stored away waiting for it's placement in a future shop. I just bought my first table saw (BT3100-1) last year for use at the future home.

So, in the years that I have had the RAS, I've ripped pantry shelves from sheets of chip board, trim from 1 by whatevers, and lots of other stuff. My 18 x 25 deck has over a 100 2 x 2 ballusters that were all ripped from treated 2 x 4's. Surprisingly, I've never had a kickback!

As previously mentioned, the wood is fed into the back of the blade (on your diagram, that would be in from the left side). Your diagram of the anti-kickback pawls are pointing opposite of my saw... though on the right side as you illustrated, the teeth of the pawls would point to the right, digging into the wood and preventing it from being thrown back to the left (of your diagram).

On my particular model, you'd lower the rear of the upper guard (mine doesn't have a lower guard), so that it rest's just above the stock to be fed. On the front of my blade guard, mounts a square channel which holds a light and has a spreader blade that is held in position with a winged nut. The anti-kickback pawls are located on both sides of the spreader where they hang from a pivot pin. The spreader adjusts up or down and for cross-cutting it is up and out of the way. On a rip, you adjust the spreader down so that it keeps the kerf open, and the pawls are riding on the stock. The pawls are simple stamped steel teeth that pivot freely from the spreader. There are two on each side of the blade, and they each have two teeth. I keep them clean so they dangle freely and it's important that the points are sharp so they'll dig into the wood and keep it from moving backwards. (It's wise to check this out on occasion!)

I suppose the "discomfort" comes or goes depending on what you are used to. I "learned" on an RAS and frankly I have some level of discomfort with any circular-type saw. But mostly with table saws (they really scare me!) With the RAS, I feel the stock is better supported, the blade and it's work is right on top, so I can see what it's doing, and the business end of the blade is down into the table, not hidden under my stock, or in the case of a rip... sticking up through the wood. Of course with modern table saws, the blade on a table saw in under a guard, but when I was a kid and approaching a saw for the first time, I never saw a guard on a table saw. With the RAS, you also don't have to be concerned with anything catching on the clearance plate.

So, nothing against the table saw or anyone who has any level of discomfort with the RAS or any other saw. I am enjoying the finer points of the BT, but I really can't wait to get my RAS moved and set up and running again.

CWS

[scorrpio]

On my Craftsman RAS (with replacement guard on) there is a whole ripping system in place - riving knife, pawls, etc. Haen't ever used them, really, but they don't interfere with anything when lifted out of the way. I in general feel more comfortable ripping on a TS. My RAS does almost all of the crosscutting.