Craftsman 100 Radial Arm Saw

[jessrice]

A guy has been trying to get rid of one of these for few months now near me, would thise be a a good addition to my shop, and for what price?

I think these are the models emerson made, and currently have a recall in effect, from the little information i can find. Were these considered good models or is it one to let go by?

LINKY

http://kpr.craigslist.org/tls/367567760.html

thanks
Jesse

[ragswl4]

Suggest you go to owwm.org and look up the model number and see what folks say about it.

It may not have a recall kit even if under the recall. If no kit is available and the saw qualifies for the recall, they will offer you $100. Go to radialarmsawrecall.com to check for status on this model saw.

I recently purchased a newer model RAS, made in the 80's for $120. It is in very good condition. I have seen models similar to the one you are looking at for $80-$100. I have read that the older craftsman RAS is better than the newer ones. YMMV based on use and abuse.

Make sure the blade run out is not excessive and no movement in the motor yoke when you attempt to move it up/down and side to side. Of course, run it and listen for noises. Saw should glide smoothly on the arm. Ensure all the locks work.

Move all the levers, raise it up and down, rotate the motor and make sure it will move to cut bevels, right and left.

Edit: Follow this link:http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail....toIndex&ID=222

I did not find the model that was on your post, but it looks similiar to a 113.29410 made in the 1960's. I also check for the recall and there is no kit for that model which means it probably qualifies for the $100 but you better go the website and call and make sure.

Edit 2: Actually the 113.29401 may be a closer match, made in 1963. Here's a link:http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=2402

[Hellrazor]

My RAS is on the recall list for the $100 and they can KMA if they think I am giving it up

[cwsmith]

I have model 113.29461 which was made in 1973 and is a 10-inch. So, the 29402 is a bit older. By the photo on Craigslist, I can see quite a few similarities between the models.

These models have a cast iron arm and column which is reputed to be much more stable than the later fabricated columns. I purchased my particular saw in early 74, as I recall. My father-in-law was a hardware dept manager at Sears back then and he and I had often talked about the RAS. It was my tool of preference, having learned how to use one in high school (and also watching my father remove a few fingers on a table saw in the summer before I started high school).

Well, at the time (1974) my father-in-law had just returned from Chicago and seeing the new designs with the fabricated columns, called me and told me that he was "holding the last of the cast iron RAS's for me... get it now because the newer ones didn't look as good". Well, I jumped in the car and drove the 80 miles to Binghamton to buy it before someone else did.

I'm glad I did, as it has proved to be an excellent tool. I still have it, and actually purchased a second one a couple of years ago, just in case I need any spare parts. I paid $70 for the used one.

I did check into the recall to see if a lower guard was available, it is not! They'll give you $100, if you return the motor/carriage assembly to Emerson Tool. For me, the RAS is worth far more and I simply won't part with it.

There are cast bosses on the upper guard, that you could probably tap and add your own lower guard rings or plexi, if it really concerns you. Best thing you can do is to religiously follow all safety procedures and learn to properly use the saw.

If you can see this saw in person, just check to see that everything locks down okay and nothing moves after it is tightened. The indexing pin on the arm should firmly drop into place as you slowing move the arm to the center, and left or the right at 45 degrees. You may have to pat the arm latch handle (behind and above the arm lock knob on the front of the arm) with the palm of your hand to seat the indexing pin, but that's standard. Once the arm lock knob is tightened, it should be rock-solid.

Also check the you carriage yoke to ensure it can be firmly locked anywhere along the arm. There's a knob on the upper-left side of the carriage for that.

Considering the age of this particular saw, pay attention to how the yoke rotates under the arm. It should be smooth without any snags or bumps. The yoke lock handle on mine is on the upper-right side of the yoke. Also check to see that the yoke can be easily set for beveling. You'll need to loosen the bevel lock knob (just below the handle) and then holding the handle, use the side of your index finger to lift the spring loaded locking pin which is located right behind the handle. The bevel should be able to firmly lock into any position by tightening the bevel lock knob. If the pins are worn down, that may not be possible. They are however easily replaced, as they are simple phenolic dowels that position within the casting.

If all that sounds confusing, it really isn't once you have your hands on the saw. Just have the gentleman walk you through the adjustments.

I'm sure there must be some differences between the two models, but from what I can tell by the picture, it shouldn't be much. My RAS is pretty easy to work on and a couple of years ago, I stripped mine right down to the armature, cleaning out old sawdust, spider bodies, etc. ( I had stored the saw away for about 15 years in a rather damp basement... jobs can do that to you sometimes. Yuk!). Other than some surface rust on the carriage bearings and a few bolt heads everything was in pretty good shape. Best thing I did for storage was to spray the column with an industrial rust shield.

I hope this helps,

CWS

[messmaker]

I just got a saw almost like it two weeks ago. I checked into the recall and it does not have a fix so you can get $100 if you want to go that way. I am pretty proud of mine and would not trade for a newer one if I could. I found one setting out of adjustment. It took about 15 minutes to get it right.I am going to keep it for long crosscuts and quick dado's.