HF 32208 Bandsaw Assembly...

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  • John Hunter
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2004
    • 2034
    • Lake Station, IN, USA.
    • BT3000 & BT3100

    #16
    One other thing. Once you get all set up you may want to replace the cool blocks if they are like the ones that came on mine they are a POS. I got the rollers from the HF upgrade. Also you will want to get a good blade.
    John Hunter

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    • Uncle Cracker
      The Full Monte
      • May 2007
      • 7091
      • Sunshine State
      • BT3000

      #17
      Originally posted by JR
      Thanks for catch, Cracker.
      No prob, JR... Least I could do after all that good info you pulled together.

      Comment

      • GaryA
        Established Member
        • Dec 2004
        • 365
        • Tampa, FL, USA.

        #18
        MPC, Cracker & JR - thanks for the assistance - I think i got it!

        I was visualizing the mechanics of the blade & guides all wrong....and I still may be, but I've got the blade installed, tensioned and tracking center.

        Now for a couple of easier question -

        1. The Guide post guard (black thin metal) - it says to put the hex bolt and washers into it to secure it on the front, then thread the guide post adjustment knob on the right side (that loosens and tightens guide post movement) - the problem is that when threading the hex bolt in the fron, it hits the guide post (guide post it supposed to be just secured by the knob, correct?)

        2. I dont know that I have the piece that covers the blade on the back side of the saw (that runs vertical to support arm) - what does this look like/is it necessary?

        Thanks again - you guys are awesome
        Attached Files
        Gary

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        • JR
          The Full Monte
          • Feb 2004
          • 5636
          • Eugene, OR
          • BT3000

          #19
          Gary,

          Yes, I would want the plastic thing. It covers the blade as it makes its way from the bottom wheel to the top one. I think it's a real safety feature.

          As to the other guards, I'm less commited to them. I suspect this will sound weird, but having a bandsaw blade expsed right where I'm working doesn't bother me. I'm more afraid of walking into to blade on the other side of the saw, where I'm not paying attention to it.

          I'm not sure about that black thing. I'll take a look at my saw. I recall it being kind of goofy, with a big ol honkin bolt for a litte tinny piece of metal.

          JR
          JR

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          • eddy merckx
            Established Member
            • Mar 2006
            • 359
            • Western WA
            • Shop Fox Cabinet

            #20
            That guide post cover came with my saw also. It seemed like a cheesey afterthought so I never installed it. Can't say I've ever missed it. I'm not aware of any bandsaws using anything like that.

            Please be aware that your new bandsaw may be frustrating to use until you get a decent blade. The stock blades on most bandsaws are kind of placeholders. You can get acceptable blades at Sears or HD but most of us prefer nicer ones. There are tons of threads here about blade selection. Hard to go wrong with a 1/2" 3 tooth for starters. ($20-30).

            Like John Hunter said, you will want some better guide blocks. The HF ones are soft plastic and will not allow you to cut straight because they wear so fast. Cool Blocks are the standard (around $12ish).

            There are lots of hotrodding tips available for that saw. I think you'll enjoy it.

            Eddy

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