There is a steel wool difference!

[atgcpaul]

When I started this hobby, I bought the cheap 4-Ot steel wool at HD. Then I
took some WWing classes at a CC and the instructor was adamant about
using Liberon steel wool. And the WWing mags hailed its praises. I didn't
want to waste all this wool I bought, so I shrugged it off and kept on buffing
with the HD stuff.

No more, my friends! Tonight I tried Liberon 4-Ot steel wool for my first time.
Throw away the cheap stuff and treat yourself to a little bit of heaven. The
cheap stuff is definitely a wolf in steel wool's clothing. Who knew? The
Liberon is definitely very uniform and at the same "grit" much finer than the
HD brand. With my old stuff, scratches were visible so you'd had to rub-out
even more. Liberon + wax gave me such a nice, smooth finish whereas the
other stuff left much to be desired.

If you have your reservations about tossing out the old stuff, here is what I
have done with mine:

1) Place a clump into a 16oz glass jar so it fills it about half way. Then pour
vinegar to cover wool. Let sit and get rusty for a week. Strain liquid into
clean jar through a filter. This liquid works great as an ebonizing solution for
walnut, mahogany, and several others. I brush it on until it gets to the right
darkness--overnight if you want black--then wipe with a damp cloth the next
day to get rid of the residual acid. Won't work with all woods, though.

2) Light chunks on fire with a 9V battery. If you haven't already done this
some time in your life, you haven't lived.

Buy Liberon steel wool,
Paul

PS--no affiliation to Liberon. Just a big fan.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I agree, completely and totally. Liberon steel wool was about as big of a "wow" factor as when I first used General Finishes products.

[lcm1947]

Thanks for the information Paul. I've never given it two minutes thought about it being any different. I'll surely try some Liberon.

[Ken Massingale]

Very true Paul. Who would think there could be such a difference.

[jhart]

What stores do you find it at??

[cabinetman]

There is a huge difference in the higher end steel wools compared to the cheap ones. There are many alternatives to steel wool. In marine work, bronze wool is used because the wool filaments don't rust or cause corrosion. In using water based finishes a non-corrosive wool is recommended for the same reason. In addition to bronze wools, there are other exotic alloy metals used to make wools, such as aluminum, brass, copper, and stainless steel. Wools are also made in a variety of synthetic fibers, and abrasive materials.

[atgcpaul]

What stores do you find it at??

Got mine at a local Woodcraft but Rockler has it, too. I've seen it at antique
stores, too. Never in a big box store. Less than $20 but you don't use much
at one time and I'm always re-opening the wool pad to expose fresh threads.


I almost exclusively use water based lacquer sprayed over shellac and oil.
(Hood Finishing's Hydrocote Resisthane Plus) I only do the steel wool after
the final coat so now rust worries there. It's recommended to not use steel
wool, but another material, in between coats of water based finishes.

Paul

[mschrank]

I was pretty impressed when I first bought it a few months back. Compared to the cheap stuff, I'd almost be willing to wear a sweater made out of #0000 Liberon!

[Bruce Cohen]

Have you guys tried applying paste wax (I've been using Liberon Black Bison)with 4/0 Liberon. Now that's Really "smooth".


Bruce

[lcm1947]

Anybody ever use Norton's Sanding pads. I don't know what they're made of but they won't rust, shred or splinter. They look like the pads my wife uses for washing pots and pans. They're used in place of steel wool and come in sizes to replace the 0000,000 and 00 steel wool. I used them a bit and they seem pretty good. They say to use them between coats of primer, sealer, lacquer, varnish and paint. Oh I got some at either Lowes or HD.