Rip Blade Recommendation

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  • Jeffrey Schronce
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2005
    • 3822
    • York, PA, USA.
    • 22124

    #16
    Well my Freud LU87R010 Thin Kerf will be delivered tomorrow.

    To bad I don't need it cause I just fixed my power issue . . . 3hp Jet bargin alert post! Mega gloat!

    In all seriousness, should I now consider a different blade? I do have 2 blade from Mike Jackson and enjoy both. Use the Leitz in my SCMS. Have a combo as well. Maybe I will get a couple rip blades from him.

    Comment

    • Knottscott
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2004
      • 3815
      • Rochester, NY.
      • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

      #17
      Originally posted by Jeffrey Schronce
      Well my Freud LU87R010 Thin Kerf will be delivered tomorrow.

      To bad I don't need it cause I just fixed my power issue . . . 3hp Jet bargin alert post! Mega gloat!

      In all seriousness, should I now consider a different blade? I do have 2 blade from Mike Jackson and enjoy both. Use the Leitz in my SCMS. Have a combo as well. Maybe I will get a couple rip blades from him.
      This has got to be the most elaborate scheme ever for a stealth gloat! ...post about blade applications, then solve the issue with a new saw! ...just the way you planned it!

      Good on ya though! The TK won't hurt anything, but you won't get any benefit from the TK with that saw. If the LU87 hasn't shipped yet, I'd go with full kerf for any new blades....
      Last edited by Knottscott; 05-16-2007, 12:44 PM.
      Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

      Comment

      • JBD
        Established Member
        • Jul 2006
        • 122

        #18
        Originally posted by Jeffrey Schronce
        Well my Freud LU87R010 Thin Kerf will be delivered tomorrow.

        To bad I don't need it cause I just fixed my power issue . . . 3hp Jet bargin alert post! Mega gloat!

        In all seriousness, should I now consider a different blade? I do have 2 blade from Mike Jackson and enjoy both. Use the Leitz in my SCMS. Have a combo as well. Maybe I will get a couple rip blades from him.
        For a FK you might wanna try the DeWalt DW7642.

        http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7642-...366873&sr=1-45

        Its a good deal for $24 and change. Mine just came today, I havnt had a chance to use it yet.

        Looks like all the DeWalt blades that are rebadged as Deltas are on clearance at Amazon.
        Jon

        Comment

        • hermit
          Established Member
          • Dec 2002
          • 379
          • Somerset, PA, USA.

          #19
          Jeff, are you running on 120 or 240? I am still running on 120 and had a slight bog on some 4/4 rock maple, but it had a lot of internal tension, and my blade isn't brand new. I want to rewire to 240 but haven't yet. Just wondering if any difference would be noticed other than electric bill.

          Todd

          Comment

          • hermit
            Established Member
            • Dec 2002
            • 379
            • Somerset, PA, USA.

            #20
            Well Jeff, I obviously didn't read the entire thread. Congrats on your new gloat! Let me rephrase my question, WERE you wired for 240?! I am using a 40t all-purpose Freud.

            Comment

            • Knottscott
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2004
              • 3815
              • Rochester, NY.
              • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

              #21
              Originally posted by hermit
              Jeff, are you running on 120 or 240? I am still running on 120 and had a slight bog on some 4/4 rock maple, but it had a lot of internal tension, and my blade isn't brand new. I want to rewire to 240 but haven't yet. Just wondering if any difference would be noticed other than electric bill.

              Todd
              Hi Todd - 220 won't bring any changes to your bill....it's still billed in kilowatts and still works out the same as 110v.

              You shouldn't notice any power improvement unless your current circuit is inadequate and is starving the saw of juice. In theory, a fully capable 110v circuit dedicated to the saw should serve equally as well as 220v. In actual use, there are often less voltage losses with 220v, especially at start up. If you've already got 220v, or can do it easily/cheaply, there's no harm in switching and possibly some benefit. But I wouldn't sink alot of money and effort into it, unless you plan to add a bunch of bigger machinery.

              Flattening/straightening your stock, correct blade choice, and good alignment are the keys to dealing with underpowered saws.
              Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

              Comment

              • LarryG
                The Full Monte
                • May 2004
                • 6693
                • Off The Back
                • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

                #22
                Originally posted by Dustmight
                If you've already got 220v, or can do it easily/cheaply, there's no harm in switching and possibly some benefit. But I wouldn't sink alot of money and effort into it, unless you plan to add a bunch of bigger machinery.
                One possible benefit (and I recognize that you, Scott, will know this) is that if your electrical service is close to being maxed out, amperage-wise, running some of your machines on 240V will help because doubling the voltage halves the amperage. That's the situation in my shop, where I have a total of 60A to work with. I have my band saw and jointer wired for 240V. At 120V they'd only draw about 10 or 12 amps each; but with the lights, dust collector, battery chargers, etc. all taking their share ... saving either five or six amps (depending on which machine is running: never both at once) really helps.

                If you happen to have a circuit with only one receptacle on it, it can be converted to 240V as easily as changing the receptacle and the breaker.
                Larry

                Comment

                • hermit
                  Established Member
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 379
                  • Somerset, PA, USA.

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Dustmight
                  Hi Todd - 220 won't bring any changes to your bill....it's still billed in kilowatts and still works out the same as 110v.

                  You shouldn't notice any power improvement unless your current circuit is inadequate and is starving the saw of juice. In theory, a fully capable 110v circuit dedicated to the saw should serve equally as well as 220v. In actual use, there are often less voltage losses with 220v, especially at start up. If you've already got 220v, or can do it easily/cheaply, there's no harm in switching and possibly some benefit. But I wouldn't sink alot of money and effort into it, unless you plan to add a bunch of bigger machinery.

                  Flattening/straightening your stock, correct blade choice, and good alignment are the keys to dealing with underpowered saws.
                  Thanks for the info. I thought the since the amp draw was lower, the bill would be reduced. I will probably run a 240 line eventually (it will be real easy) but I guess I don't have to worry about it immediately.

                  Here is another question though. Does a 240 line have to be dedicated? I mean my bandsaw is in close proximity, and figured I might as well wire 2 receptacles on the same line if thats possible. I wouldn't be running both at the same time. And one more just to make sure I do it right, I would use 12/2 with black and white each going to a breaker, and the ground to ground bar in the box, right?? (my motors are 1 3/4 hp and 1 hp)

                  thanks,
                  Todd

                  Comment

                  • Jeffrey Schronce
                    Veteran Member
                    • Nov 2005
                    • 3822
                    • York, PA, USA.
                    • 22124

                    #24
                    Originally posted by hermit
                    Here is another question though. Does a 240 line have to be dedicated? I mean my bandsaw is in close proximity, and figured I might as well wire 2 receptacles on the same line if thats possible. I wouldn't be running both at the same time. And one more just to make sure I do it right, I would use 12/2 with black and white each going to a breaker, and the ground to ground bar in the box, right?? (my motors are 1 3/4 hp and 1 hp)

                    thanks,
                    Todd
                    Yes you can run 2 receptacles off the same line. No problem. Heck with a 1.75 and 1 HP you could probably run both on a 20A breaker. Just guess on that one.

                    You are correct on wiring. 12/2 two hots to breaker and ground to ground bar.

                    Edit : Suggest using twist lock connector plug and recep. They are more expensive but they rock.

                    Comment

                    • LarryG
                      The Full Monte
                      • May 2004
                      • 6693
                      • Off The Back
                      • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

                      #25
                      Originally posted by hermit
                      Does a 240 line have to be dedicated? I mean my bandsaw is in close proximity, and figured I might as well wire 2 receptacles on the same line if thats possible.
                      No 240V outlet I've seen has two sets of terminals like 120V receptacles do, so the way to do this would be to set a junction box midway between the two tools, with a home run from the JB back to the panel, and then run short feeds from the JB to each of the two receptacles. IOW, in the junction box, you'd have three blacks, three whites, and three grounds, each set tied together with wire nuts.

                      Originally posted by hermit
                      And one more just to make sure I do it right, I would use 12/2 with black and white each going to a breaker, and the ground to ground bar in the box, right??
                      That's almost right. You'd use a DOUBLE breaker, which looks like two singles siamesed together, with a little coupler thingie connecting the two trip levers, so that both legs will trip together. The black wire goes to one half of the double breaker, the white wire to the other half, and the ground goes to the ground bar.
                      Larry

                      Comment

                      • hermit
                        Established Member
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 379
                        • Somerset, PA, USA.

                        #26
                        Thanks again guys. The extra terminal screws is exactly what I was wondering about. I'll use the junction. I have already wired once for a 220, when I was messing around changing my DC blower motor, but I had some issues ........ too much to get into here ........... and just wanted to make sure I did it correctly in the box. The breaker is still there and wired but I have nothing connected to it right now, so I was going to reroute the wire for the tablesaw (I went back to 110 for the DC).

                        Thanks again,
                        Todd

                        Comment

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