Router Table Extension for TS

[Tarheel]

Hi,

I have a Sears CM hybrid - 22124. It has been a great saw. I have been looking at installing a router table extension on the right side. Benchdog (~$329) and MLCS ($289) both sell cast iron extension's that appear really nice, but way too expensive for me right now!

I have been looking however at the MLCS melamine extension with a phenloic insert and fence for $179.95.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../routabl4.html

Just wonering if there are any other 22124 owners out there that used this MLCS extension and can provide me with any feedback.

Any thoughts would certainly be appreciated. (Oh ya. I am currently using a benchtop CM RT that is ok, but at times way too little tabletop surface.)

Thanks in Advance,

Wayne

[ragswl4]

Router Table

I just purchased a Craftsman 22114 and plan on adding a router table to the right side as well. I currently have a table that I made out of two layers of melamine covered particle board. It is dead, and I mean dead flat. Only cost about $15 to make. In fact I just remade it as I recently installed an MLCS All-in-one plate and found the plastic inserts were depressed below the plate so I could not make an even cut. Sent it back for a refund, after they sent me two new round inserts and they were just as bad. Had to toss the top of the router table.

So now I have two tops for the table, one with a small hole 3/4" and another with a larger hole 2 1/2" and just unbolt one and bolt on the other. Takes about 2 minutes. This was I have a zero clearance top for most bits. Don't want to get too long here so consider making your own table, its fun and you end up with the same thing you would be paying $180 for except for $165 less, minus a $30 router plate. All those phenolic plates also have a crown built into them to help prevent sag from the weight of the router. My feeling is that if it ain't flat, I don't want it. Just gonna cause problems at some point. My .02.

[p8ntblr]

Sorry if I'm thread stealing, but does the router table replace your wing or add on to it. I need to replace my webbed wing (to use with a unifence) with a solid one and was thinking a router table might do the trick.

[Tarheel]

Sorry if I'm thread stealing, but does the router table replace your wing or add on to it. I need to replace my webbed wing (to use with a unifence) with a solid one and was thinking a router table might do the trick.

The 22124 comes with one cast iron wing on the right along with a melamine extension(12x27"). This is to replace the melamine extension and expands this part of the wing to approx 23.5" x 27".

Wayne

[Tarheel]

I just purchased a Craftsman 22114 and plan on adding a router table to the right side as well. I currently have a table that I made out of two layers of melamine covered particle board. It is dead, and I mean dead flat. Only cost about $15 to make. In fact I just remade it as I recently installed an MLCS All-in-one plate and found the plastic inserts were depressed below the plate so I could not make an even cut. Sent it back for a refund, after they sent me two new round inserts and they were just as bad. Had to toss the top of the router table.

So now I have two tops for the table, one with a small hole 3/4" and another with a larger hole 2 1/2" and just unbolt one and bolt on the other. Takes about 2 minutes. This was I have a zero clearance top for most bits. Don't want to get too long here so consider making your own table, its fun and you end up with the same thing you would be paying $180 for except for $165 less, minus a $30 router plate. All those phenolic plates also have a crown built into them to help prevent sag from the weight of the router. My feeling is that if it ain't flat, I don't want it. Just gonna cause problems at some point. My .02.

Maybe I need to rethink this whole idea for a DIY alternative.

Thanks,

Wayne

[drumpriest]

Rockler has one as well, it's mdf with laminate on it, fits 27" saws.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...n&cookietest=1

I thought about using it, but my PM2000 is 30.5", so I built one myself. Used a Rockler fence, and a rout-r-lift FX. I like the setup quite a lot. I used the router plate template that they sell as well.

[Knottscott]

I started out trying to put a router table in the stock laminate extension wing, but the wing was just to short....I tried adding an extension to the extension,which wasn't strong enough to stay level. The answer was a 9/8" piece of scrap pressboard countertop cut to fit in the wing...fairly easy actually and alot cheaper.

[ragswl4]

Nice

Nice set-up Dustmight.

[steve-norrell]

I installed a Woodpecker router table on the right side of my BT3100 (http://www.woodpeck.com/2218table.html). It is supported by aluminum 'angle irons' and shimmed to be level with the table top with plywood. The table itself did not need to cut in any way and the only modification was the t-slots on both sides.

I set it so the miter slot is toward the saw blade so I can also use it to hold the runners for a sled. I am using a Bench Dog fence. A picture is attached.

Good luck, Steve

[p8ntblr]

I just purchased a Craftsman 22114 and plan on adding a router table to the right side as well. I currently have a table that I made out of two layers of melamine covered particle board. It is dead, and I mean dead flat. Only cost about $15 to make. In fact I just remade it as I recently installed an MLCS All-in-one plate and found the plastic inserts were depressed below the plate so I could not make an even cut. Sent it back for a refund, after they sent me two new round inserts and they were just as bad. Had to toss the top of the router table.

So now I have two tops for the table, one with a small hole 3/4" and another with a larger hole 2 1/2" and just unbolt one and bolt on the other. Takes about 2 minutes. This was I have a zero clearance top for most bits. Don't want to get too long here so consider making your own table, its fun and you end up with the same thing you would be paying $180 for except for $165 less, minus a $30 router plate. All those phenolic plates also have a crown built into them to help prevent sag from the weight of the router. My feeling is that if it ain't flat, I don't want it. Just gonna cause problems at some point. My .02.

Can you post some pics of the router table. I just got a 22114 and am thinking about a router table also but am not looking to spend close to $200 for it (or more).

[liftoff621@hotmail.com]

Table Saw Router Table

I built mine using melamine with a Rousseau plate and a home built router fence that saddles the Biesmeyer. It's attached to my 22124 in place of the original melamine extension. The table is 18" by 27". The fence is made out of birch plywood (pocket screw construction) with sliding melamine faces. I made removeable zero clearance inserts for the faces, but don't use them much. The area behind the face is a tunnel which I connect my shop vac to. Less than $100 and a good experience.

[Tarheel]

I built mine using melamine with a Rousseau plate and a home built router fence that saddles the Biesmeyer. It's attached to my 22124 in place of the original melamine extension. The table is 18" by 27". The fence is made out of birch plywood (pocket screw construction) with sliding melamine faces. I made removeable zero clearance inserts for the faces, but don't use them much. The area behind the face is a tunnel which I connect my shop vac to. Less than $100 and a good experience.

Nice setup!!! How did you fasten the table to the Biesmeyer rails? It looks to me that the only way to fasten the doubled - up MDF (top) is to drill holes in the side of the RT, insert threaded inserts and bolt it to the rails or just attach it with some 2 inch lag screws?

Thanks,

Wayne

[liftoff621@hotmail.com]

Table Saw Router Table

Nice setup!!! How did you fasten the table to the Biesmeyer rails? It looks to me that the only way to fasten the doubled - up MDF (top) is to drill holes in the side of the RT, insert threaded inserts and bolt it to the rails or just attach it with some 2 inch lag screws?

Wayne,

The router table takes the place of the old melamine extension that came with the saw. I built a rectangular frame beneath the table that is connected to the existing holes in the fence rails with bolts and nuts. It works well and has stayed straight. Pete

[Tarheel]

Thanks for all of the input, folks! I did receive the table extension from MLCS. As it turned out to be almost 1 1/2" thick, I ended up clamping it between the two fence rails and drilling pilot holes for four 2" lag screws. It is now firmly in place and also nice and flat.

Now.....

One last question. What method have ya'll found the best for drilling the 3/8" thick phenolic insert plate as accurately as possible to mount the router to the insert? Any good tricks out there?

Thanks,

Wayne