nailer recommedations for crown molding

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  • timb
    Forum Newbie
    • Feb 2007
    • 76
    • Northern CA, USA
    • Craftsman 21829

    #1

    nailer recommedations for crown molding

    There is a crown molding project in my future. I have a nice miter saw, Hitachi C 10FSB, so the next thing I need to look into is a nail gun. Since I don't do this professionally and only have the one house, I'm wondering if I can get away with an electric one like the craftsman 27233 or whether I should go pnuematic. A couple of people at work seemed satisfied with the electric approach and it definately seems easier than a hammer but my tool lust is acting up.

    What features make a nailer good for crown molding and what are some I should look at? If I do go pnuematic what other houshold/ home re-model uses might I find for the compressor etc. apart from the obvious tire inflation and what other air tools should I salivate over.

    thanks
    Tim
  • LarryG
    The Full Monte
    • May 2004
    • 6693
    • Off The Back
    • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

    #2
    You'll want either a 15 or 16ga nailer. A 16ga nailer is generally considered better for WW projects in the shop but a 15ga, especially the angled type, is usually preferred for trim carpentry. Either can be used for both so get whatever you'll use it for most; but for crown molding, I'd lean heavily toward a 15ga angled nailer (the angled design makes it easier to get into confined areas, like the juncture of walls and ceilings).

    Nailer design is pretty old hat by now so it'll be hard to go wrong with almost any brand. Senco is arguably the most revered name; my three guns are by Porter-Cable; a huge number of members here have reported excellent results with most of the inexpensive models from Harbor Freight.

    If you get one of the little oil-less "pancake" compressors (usually around 2HP and with a four to six gallon tank), shooting nails and airing up tires and blowing the sawdust off your tools is about the limit of their usefulness. These little guys are cheap to buy but they just don't have the beans to run tools with higher and/or continuous air supply needs. If you want to apply spray finishes or run continuous-duty air tools like sanders or grinders, you're going to need some fairly serious CFM and tank capacity.
    Last edited by LarryG; 03-28-2007, 06:39 AM.
    Larry

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    • wyc_93
      Forum Newbie
      • Mar 2007
      • 5
      • Clarksburg, MD
      • BT3100

      #3
      Finally, something that I feel qualified to contribute on!

      I'm unfamiliar with the craftsman electric nailer, but I've got a 18v Dewalt 16ga angle nailer and did a rooms worth of crown molding, and also used it for finish trim on some built-ins. Worked great.

      I went electric because I wanted to avoid the hassle of dragging around air tanks and hoses around the house (plus, most of the time I could only get in an hour or two of work at night, and since we've got a couple of rug-rats in the house, I couldn't leave equipment laying around for too long. . . it's a heck of a lot easier to put the one gun away or on a high shelf it is to spend time setting up and breaking down for each short work session). The battery is good for a surprising amount of shots - mine came with a pair, and I've never worked faster than the pair could keep up with (I'd work more than an hour on the weekends!)

      One thing to consider though - the nailer is pretty heavy, and it starts to feel heavier as you go. This is especially true if you're a desk-jockey by day. Make sure you switch hands periodically, lest you start looking like a lopsided Popeye. . .

      walter
      ----------------------------------------------
      Caulk is like Jesus - it covers a multitude of sins!

      Comment

      • jAngiel
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2003
        • 561
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #4
        I did a crown molding job for my MIL and I used the HF 18 ga. brad nailer that handles everything from 3/8" to 2" brads. I used the 2" ones and it holds great and the holes that needed to be filled were quite a bit smaller than the holes that my 15 ga. finish nailer makes.

        I personally think the 18 ga. is sufficient, and I the gun is only $20.
        James

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        • timb
          Forum Newbie
          • Feb 2007
          • 76
          • Northern CA, USA
          • Craftsman 21829

          #5
          Originally posted by wyc_93
          Finally, something that I feel qualified to contribute on!

          walter
          Glad I could help out I'll take a look at that one. The quick clean up factor definately has appeal when you live in an ongoing re-model project.

          Thanks to all for the advice. What sort of capacity tank would one need to consider spraying paint etc? Another project is to replace all the interior doors. 13 I think and they have to be painted white. Strangely the thought of painting them all by hand doesn't appeal.

          Tim
          Last edited by timb; 03-28-2007, 05:50 PM.

          Comment

          • Cheeky
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2006
            • 862
            • westchester cty, new york
            • Ridgid TS2400LS

            #6
            i used a 15g angled nailer, and it worked great. really nice how you can get in those tight spaces.

            btw, i posted a nailer deal in the bargains section. Senco 3 gun kit for $164. the angled nailer included is around 2 bills.
            Pete

            Comment

            • hermit
              Established Member
              • Dec 2002
              • 379
              • Somerset, PA, USA.

              #7
              I've got a 15g and two 18 g brad nailers. I've got a 90 yr old house with original plaster. It took me about 4 rooms before I realized the 18 guage brads work better than the 15 g finish nails on that old plaster. So if your house is old go that way. In fact, my one nailer is a Porter Cable, and only goes up to 1 1/4" brads and it worked better than trying 2" in brads in my Homier special. They just bend. Have fun!!!!!

              I have one of the pancake compressors for the nailer and a 15 gallon portable in the garage for spraying stuff. Both are oilless and do the jobs I need them to do. If you want to spray, you need to start looking at continuous cfms. Obviously bigger is better. I can't even remember what mine is now, but as soon as you start looking, you'll see how easy it is to compare numbers.

              Todd (I hate crown molding)

              PS. Once you do it in your house, many other people will be putting in their requests, so be prepared.

              Comment

              • timb
                Forum Newbie
                • Feb 2007
                • 76
                • Northern CA, USA
                • Craftsman 21829

                #8
                Originally posted by hermit
                ....

                Todd (I hate crown molding)

                PS. Once you do it in your house, many other people will be putting in their requests, so be prepared.
                good to know. I'll start preparing my excuses

                Comment

                • JimD
                  Veteran Member
                  • Feb 2003
                  • 4187
                  • Lexington, SC.

                  #9
                  I have a 16 gauge Bostitch, a 18 gauge Porter cable and a 24 gauge bostitch. Either of the bigger nailers works for crown. I bought the 16 originally as a package deal with a small oilless compressor. I am pretty happy with the compressor but it did limit my choices in spray guns. I went with a Wagner conversion gun from Gleem for a little over $100. It is a pressurized gun, the tank pressure goes to a second regulator on the gun which pressurizes the cup with the finish in it. It works well with small compressors and is about the cheapest gun I could find where you could buy nozzle sets in about any size you want. It can thus reportedly spray heavy things like un-thinned latex or real thin things like car paint. I sprayed Minwax water based poly with it but it works better with the Resisthane I am spraying now (which is cheaper anyway).

                  My main new information is to say you can get by with a little compressor with the right gun. It takes very little air to run a finish nailer. I have a portable tank that I use sometimes to do something on the second floor two stories above the compressor. A tanks worth of air will drive quite a few nails.

                  I also use my HF stapler sometimes to put a backer piece across joints in crown. It will not drive the 1 1/2 staples it is rated to drive satisfactorily but does fine with 3/4 staples.

                  Jim

                  Comment

                  • wyc_93
                    Forum Newbie
                    • Mar 2007
                    • 5
                    • Clarksburg, MD
                    • BT3100

                    #10
                    In case you needed it - here's a link to the electric nailer I've got:

                    http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DC618B-Cordless-16-Ga-Finish/dp/B000BMIM02/ref=sr_1_1/002-6267840-8534400?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1175171088&sr=8-1. Note: this link shows the nailer only w/o batteries or charger. If you've already got an 18v Dewalt anything, that's not a problem.

                    I got mine when amazon ran a special with a hammer drill and this nailer in a soft bag w/ two batteries. Oh, and the safety glasses I got with it weren't quite as cool.

                    They don't seem to have that combination as an option anymore. . .

                    I use paslode nails with it (bought from the Borg).
                    Last edited by wyc_93; 03-29-2007, 07:02 AM.
                    ----------------------------------------------
                    Caulk is like Jesus - it covers a multitude of sins!

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