Router table miter slot

[Ed62]

I've been considering making a router table with a miter slot in it. I was thinking of probably using a router sled and/or miter guage with it. What do you think would be the optimal distance from the miter slot to the bit? Does 5 or 6 inches sound about right?

Ed

[hermit]

I had the same dilemma when I made mine. I just looked a pictures and guessed. I just measured mine and it is exactly 6 inches to the edge of the slot. I can count on one hand how many times I've used it though. I usually use sleds with the fence instead. Its hard to set up perfectly parallel with the slot. I never trust it. With the fence, it doesn't matter if you're at an angle or not.

Todd

[Russianwolf]

Looking at the sliding table versions from both MLCS and Grizzly, I'd say it's about 4 inches.

But now I have to beg the question. Has anyone used the SMT in conjunction with a router? I'm still designing my Frankensaw and could include this feature.

[radhak]

I don't have a miter slot on my router table, but want one. I wish to use it to cut box joints instead of using the table-saw.
Without a miter slot, how'd i do box-joints on a router-table?

i want to make tiny boxes with the size of the fingers = 1/4" high and thick.

[DJehlik]

Try this link:

http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html

Dave

[axa]

I had the same question as im building my table. I also worry about aligning the slot to the fence

Instead I bought an additional SMT and mounted it next to the accessory table on the BT3. Its a miter for the router, as well as adding much wanted table surface.
Though I feel the biggest problem with the BT as a router table is the 22" depth bed, way too short for stability, but fine for these short end grain type cross cuts.

If I really need a miter on the main table, Ill add the Jessem Mite R Slide.
Excellent design as it attaches to the fence itself (thus inherently aligned)
But at about $200, thats 2x what this entire table cost me to build.

So what I really think may be worthy is a T-Track rather than a miter slot, to lock down feather or spring boards.

What kinds of router sled are out there? any happen to be better, cheaper then jessem mite r slide?

[drumpriest]

Most of the systems that seem to work well slide off of the fence, not a miter slot. As a router bit cuts from any angle, there's no need for things to be "square to the bit", as there is no such thing. Instead "square to the fence" is what matters, and that's very difficult to achieve unless you have some system such as Incra's or saw train's.

Simple jigs that slide across the fence work well, like the coping jigs that you see all over the place now.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...g&cookietest=1

Easy to make, and easy to buy.

Now for featherboard use, it's a matter of how your feather boards are configured. If you have a set that you've made or purchased that work well using your table saw or band saw's miter slots, make the router distance to match.

[Ken Massingale]

I have miter slots on a Woodpecker table and on a Craftsman table. I don't remember using either of them. Working with a sled off the fence seems to do everything.

[eezlock]

router table miter slot

Ed, when I built my new router table, I installed a miter slot in it just because I wanted it, in case I ever wanted to use a miter gauge and be able to hold stock perfectly stable when routing on the end of a narrow board
or an odd angle or something like that. I have found that it works really well.
I'm sort of planning to build a coping sled for the router table and this slot
will make a perfect place for it ride in when I need to use it. eezlock

[Xela]

I believe if you check Woodpecker's sight it says the miter slot is 6 1/4 inches to center of the plate. I think if you look into them building you a custom table, they give you common dimensions and distances.

[RickLab]

I would think you could use a miter gauge or the SMT to make dadoes in a long board with your router if you didn't have a dado blade for your tablesaw or even if it was just a one-shot deal where you didn't want to mount your dado blade. You wouldn't be using a fence so being square to it wouldn't be a concern.

[radhak]

Try this link:

http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html

Dave

That's an excellent page, and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Dave.

I guess the miter-slot on my table can wait....maybe a long time.

[drumpriest]

eezlock, you'd best not have your plate move at all, or uninstall and reinstall your router, as this will change the distance between the slot and the cutter. Because of this, the coping sleds reference off of the fence, which can be set to the correct depth at the time of cutting, and these factors are eliminated.

[Ed62]

Thanks again for the help. Maybe I'll just forget about the miter slot.

Ed

[sparkeyjames]

I've been considering making a router table with a miter slot in it. I was thinking of probably using a router sled and/or miter guage with it. What do you think would be the optimal distance from the miter slot to the bit? Does 5 or 6 inches sound about right?

Ed

I would make the inner edge of the gauge fence pass about 1/2 to 1 inch from the widest bit that you think you will ever use. Measure from that and you will have your slot distance.