In need of training on my 4212 PC jig

[BigguyZ]

Ok-
I've searched Google and have tried to find an online resource that walks you through the entire process of using my PC 4212 jig. I read the manual, but either I'm suffering from an acute case of idiocy or it's just not that clear.

Does anyone know of a site that has a complete, step by step, from start to finish, resource on how to use the jig? I made an attempt to use it last week and it was a mess! I ended up going with a tongue and groove construction for the drawers I made...

Ancillary question- can you do DTs with MDF?

Edit: I forgot to mention that I did go to the PC website, but the videos there aren't a walkthrough...

[scorrpio]

Pretty much all DT jigs of bench-mounted style are used about the same. You might want to looks for DT jig usage in general. Check Leigh.

PC jig is supposed to be a total no-brainer to use, according to all the reviews. I suggest getting some cheap lumber (like 1x6), cutting it up into small pieces and then doing some practicing.

[jAngiel]

I think there is also an updated users manual available for download on the PC site. It is supposed to be an enhancement over the printed one that comes with the unit.

[MikeMcCoy]

This link is for the Rockler jig but the basic procedure is the same. The PC jig has easier fine tuning ability.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/rcklrdtjigrvu.html

[sacherjj]

Look at the PC manual on the Porter cable website. That really helps. You can probably do dovetails with MDF, although it will be hard on the router bits. Make sure you use a backer piece.

When you lay out the parts with the labeling that is suggested, it is pretty easy. All that I have done with it so far is full dovetails, for the check I am working on.

[jarhead]

What type of problems are you experiencing? If you explain the problem, maybe we can correct them together.

[Tom Slick]

I have the same jig. are you trying through or half-blind dovetails? what part do you get lost at? I can walk you though step by step for either. once you make a half blind the rest will start to make sense.

[drumpriest]

The Leigh jig info won't be of use for 1/2 blind joints with the PC, they work differently. For 1/2 blind, you load the front and top boards both into the PC, cutting them both at the same time. The Leigh jig you cut each board at the front of the jig and flip the finger assembly.

They are somewhat alike for through dovetails though, where you cut each board at the front, and flip over the through dovetail finger assemblies.

You can dovetail mdf, but there is no real point to it. It lacks grain, and it is glued together sawdust from the start. I doubt that you'd get a significantly stronger joint dovetailed than you would just glued and clamped.

[BigguyZ]

Well I was trying to do through dovetails at the time. I think one of the biggest questions is how you controll the where the initial start of the tail/ pin pattern is- do you only use the stops at a specific setting, or do you have to tweak it?

I think what the problem was that I tried to wing it and "get 'er gone!"... I'm still don't think that the manual is the best piece of technical writing I've seen, but I think it definitely warrants another readthrough. I also think that a lot more trial and error to get it tweaked is needed as well.

I'm still shocked that with all of the resources on the net there isn't anything that walks you through step by step the process of using the PC 4212. I guess I'm used to the detailed tutorials with tons of pictures that I've read for other projects (not wwing, per se).

[Tom Slick]

try making the half-blinds first. they are easier and IMO you'll get a better grasp of the process.

[drumpriest]

You typically want a 1/2 pin on either side of the joint, to accomplish this, you will have to cut your stock on a certain interval, as the template is fixed. On the Leigh jigs it doesn't matter, you just position the guides accordingly. Then yeah, you have to bump yourself off of the stop position such that you have a 1/2 pin. Either adjust the stop, or make a shim of the correct size once you have the stop setup nicely for 1/2 blind.

I would recommend the latter, as once it's setup, you can leave it alone.

[jarhead]

Well I was trying to do through dovetails at the time. I think one of the biggest questions is how you controll the where the initial start of the tail/ pin pattern is- do you only use the stops at a specific setting, or do you have to tweak it?

Go to page 15 in the manual...
Step 2: move the offset guide to the far left. Picture 2 (Part A)
Step 3: clamp the tailboard in the lower clamp. Picture 3 (Part A). See the section positioning the wood on page 10. You are looking for picture F4 on page 10. You need to make sure that the board is centered between the fingers - you want the half pins to be equal on both sides. I measure with a caliper from the dovetail jig finger to the edge of the stock on both sides and make sure it is equal.

[sacherjj]

For through dovetails with that jig, I load the first board and adjust the stop to the board. After that, they will all register to that point. It was really important for me to mark inside or outside and then letter the edges, to keep from getting confused. I ran through a couple of practices with scrap, and labeled the practice joint well. Then I kept this around to refer to while making the joints. The nice thing is that once to get the depth of the bit references set for through dovetails, it will not have to be changed for difference board thickness, because you use the board thickness under the top guide before you set the bit depth.

[jarhead]

...The nice thing is that once to get the depth of the bit references set for through dovetails, it will not have to be changed for difference board thickness, because you use the board thickness under the top guide before you set the bit depth.

An alternate method to set the bit depth is shown in the supplemental manual on page 5.