double jointing, anyone?

[drumpriest]

I've heard of people removing the guard and face jointing 10" boards on a 6" jointer in 2 passes. Anyone actually try this? Beyond the obvious danger of removing the guard, is it safe?

thoughts?

I have a 6", considering an upgrade at some point, but really want a 10-12", at ~2k$ it's a hard choice.

[ragswl4]

Never Did It

I have never done that on my jointer. Some reasons:
1. Dangerous.
2. In one of those passes you will ge going the wrong way with the grain (depends on the type of wood, but you can get some large tearout on dense grainy woodswhen jointing into the grain).
3. In theory, sounds easy but in practice I think you might have problems actually getting the board flat and even across its width with two passes.
4. And finally, see No. 1.

Removing safety devices is asking for trouble, IMO. While 99.9% of the folks who do never get hurt, you don't want to be in the small minority who do. As most woodworkers will attest, "I never saw it coming" when they were injured.

[scorrpio]

I would not go beyond 8" jointer. Anything wider, rip in half on a ripping sled, mill each half, then glue them up.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I do it all the time. I built a small support stand that I can put next to the jointer which is level with the tables. This keeps the board relatively flat. I have an 8" and do 12"+ boards with no problem. Grizzly has the 12" for around $1500 and IMHO is the way to go.

[Ken Weaver]

I do it all the time. I built a small support stand that I can put next to the jointer which is level with the tables. This keeps the board relatively flat. I have an 8" and do 12"+ boards with no problem. Grizzly has the 12" for around $1500 and IMHO is the way to go.

Jeff -
You say "relatively flat" can you get a good square edge joint after you do the face?

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Jeff -
You say "relatively flat" can you get a good square edge joint after you do the face?

Edge joint is absolutely no problem.

[jackellis]

I think I'd rather glue up narrower boards into whatever width I need than face joint wider ones. Glueing up narrower boards avoids cupping and warping. If a wide piece moves, it is going to move a lot, or split.

[messmaker]

Jeff -
You say "relatively flat" can you get a good square edge joint after you do the face?

-------------------------------------------
I just hit the edge a few passes to give me a starting point and come back for the finish edge after I have got the faces how I want them with the planer.I don't even feel as it is dangerous as the blade is covered by the face of the board during most of the procedure.

[Russianwolf]

Yes and no.

I have removed the guard and face jointed part of a 10 inch wide board. Taking just shy of 1/4 off. Making a 6 inch wide rabbet.

Then I double stick tape a piece of 1/4 inch hardboard to what I just jointed.

Send it through the planer with the jointed/hardboard face down. Planing the top flat. The rollers won't tip it as long as the unjointed portion is shorter than the hardboard attached.

Remove the hardboard and plane the jointed side and viola. 10 inches wide, Flat and true.

[Tom Miller]

I have removed the guard and face jointed part of a 10 inch wide board. Taking just shy of 1/4 off. Making a 6 inch wide rabbet.

Then I double stick tape a piece of 1/4 inch hardboard to what I just jointed.

I take it your jointer has no rabbeting ledge? I had the hardest time wrapping my head around this technique, until I came to the conclusion that it can't be done (at least not in a straightforward way) with a rabbeting ledge.

Regards,
Tom

[Russianwolf]

nope. no ledge on mine.

I can see where the ledge would get in the way and keep you from getting a flat rabbet.