Installing Bosch 4212L on Rigid MSUV Stand

[tohellwithuga]

Just picked up the Rigid MSUV from BORG for $99, and was trying to mount my Bosch 4212L on it. Has anyone installed this saw on the Rigid MSUV? There are 2 holes a couple of inches from the back that actually line up, so I would only be drilling 2 holes in the front. But then the base goes off the front of the stand. If I put the base back so that it's not off the front (basically butting the back of the base up to the back of the top of the stand), I have to drill holes (1 or 2) into the "shaded" area that is not supposed to be drilled into. Did you just drill there anyway? Thx.

[p8ntblr]

I have a different saw (DW708). I think unless you have a Ridgid saw the holes won't match up (could be wrong). Initially I bolted on a thick piece of plywood and then lag bolted the miter saw to the wood. But seeing as the saw (which is pretty heavy) is completely vertical when stored I was afraid the lag bolts would eventually rip off from the wood. I ended up just drilling my own holes and bolting the saw directly to the MSUV and I think it's the most secure way to do it. I drilled all four as no combination of the existing holes placed my saw where I wanted it and used the biggest bolt that would fit.

[tohellwithuga]

Thanks for the reply. So, did you worry about the "shaded" areas that the instructions say not to drill in, or did you just drill where you wanted (of course without drilling into anything below)? 3 of the 4 holes I would drill would be in these areas.

Guess I shouldn't worry about it and just mount the darn thing

[sweensdv]

I'm pretty sure that if you drill into the shaded area you can run the risk of having the bolts interfere with the raising/lowering mechanism of the stand. I seem to recall reading that bolts in that area could cause the stand to not be able to be lowered all the way. One suggestion, if you have to drill in that area of the stand, insert the bolts from the bottom.

[Greg Jones]

The shaded areas are where the steel supports are to make the top rigid (pardon the pun). Put the saw on the table where you want it, stand pencils or dowels in the mounting holes of the saw, and then sight down the end of the table to ensure the bolts will fit with clearance for the washers and nuts. I mounted my P-C saw on the MSUV Friday and the back bolts were close enough to the supports that I had to grind a flat on one side of the fender washers.

[GregW]

I have the 4212L mounted on the MSUV...looking at your first picture, I have mine mounted with the saw slid all the way back so the mounting holes on the saw line up with the two holes at the back edge of the table. I used 5/16" hex head bolts through the mounting holes with the nuts on the top side for the rear bolts so they don't interfere when raising or lowering the table. I can't remember if I used existing holes in the table or drilled my own...

I've had this saw and MSUV for about a year now and highly recommend both of them!

[tohellwithuga]

Thanks a ton for the replies guys! Yeah, I actually see now in the manual where it talks about the clearance of the bolts if the saw is mounted in the back holes. It seems that this is the reason for the shaded area, so I'm going to mount it all the way back and make sure that I have enough clearance and/or insert bolts from the bottom.

[Brian G]

One advantage to mounting the CMS to a piece of ply (or other sturdy material) is that you can then choose any of the mounting holes. This makes it easier to align the fence of your CMS exactly square to the roller/stop supports.


I counterbored the holes in the bottom of the 3/4" ply I used, just deep enough to seat the heads of the hex bolts + washer. I mounted the CMS to the board, and then the board to the MSUV.

[jarhead]

I also picked up the MSUV over the weekend to use it with DeWalt DW716. Has anyone have this combination? Pictures are welcome (for any combination).