raised panel doors

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  • ART-EDNA
    Forum Newbie
    • Oct 2005
    • 30
    • AXTELL, NEBRASKA, USA.
    • RYOBI BT3100

    #1

    raised panel doors

    Do you really need a coping sled to do this safely-and if so 1/4 or 1/2 thick sled which is best?
  • onedash
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2005
    • 1013
    • Maryland
    • Craftsman 22124

    #2
    no but its a LOT easier... If you don't use a sled you have to make sure the miter slot is perfectly parallel to the fence while keeping the fence alligned with the bearing on the bit.. With a sled you just align the fence to the bearing on the bit with a straight edge and clamp your piece in the sled and go....way way faster.
    YOU DONT HAVE TO TRAIN TO BE MISERABLE. YOU HAVE TO TRAIN TO ENDURE MISERY.

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    • JimD
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 4187
      • Lexington, SC.

      #3
      Another option is to back the piece you are cutting with a piece of 3/4 scrap that is ~6 inches wide and square. Clamp the piece you are cutting to the scrap so that the edge to be cut is flush with the edge of the scrap and then use the scrap to help guide the piece through the router. The scrap will also minimize tearout.

      The thickness of the sled is not critical. I use one of 1/2 baltic birch because I use a stacked cutter and it minimizes the amount of height change between the two cuts. If you are using two bits or a switchable set, minimizing the thickness of the sled will minimize the height change between cuts. A sled can be as simple as a piece of 1/4 plywood with a fence screwed to it at right angles. A handle is nice, however. I traced a handsaw handle on some scrap composite deck material.

      Jim

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