Sears Daddy Zip (22114) vs Ridgid TS3650?

[BrazosJake]

I've been contemplating taking the plunge back into table saw ownership since my false start with a cheap craftsman over 3 years ago (which Sears took back).

The 20% off had me ready to pull the trigger on the baby zip (22104), but no in-store pickup, so freight comes to $215.

The daddy zip (22114) is available in-store around here, so TT&L would be around $630, assuming I can get the local store to match the online price and thus avoid delivery charges.

Another option is just to wangle a 10% off coupon from Borg and go with a TS3650. Then we're about a c-note less than the daddy zip.

Thoughts?

[Ken Massingale]

3650 without a doubt, but I'm about as biased in that respect as anyone can be. ;-D

Compare all the features of both saws, including mobility, ease of alignment, rip capacity, etc.
Good luck with whichever you choose, both are fine pieces of woodworking equipment.
ken

[cgallery]

I would go w/ the daddy zip if only $100 more. The Craftsman zip code saws are some of the most well thought out saws I've ever seen, at any price.

[Knottscott]

My 22124 will undoubtedly put a bias on my view too, so take it as being worth what it cost ya!

Both of those saws should be plenty capable of a lifetime of DIY service. Neither is perfect. Pros and cons with each. Nice big work surfaces and smooth running quiet motors.

I think fences are about comparable. Neither of them being a fence I'd seek as an aftermarket item, but both capable and functional with their own set of advantages and disadvantages. Prolly somehting I'd seek to upgrade at some point in the future.

Trunnion adjustment isn't too bad with either, but I do think it's easier on the zipcode b/c the 4 bolts are so easy to get to...it was literally 10 minutes including time to read the manual. The front bolts on a contractor saw are bit tougher ..once loosened the 3650's cam adjust is a neat tool. The good news is that it's not a big deal in the life of the saw cuz you'll probably do it once or twice.

The mass of the cab mounted trunnions is significant. The 22114 weighs 385# according to sears website....nearly 100# more than the 3650...that's a large percentage heavier. The 22124 weighs in at 425#, and I really noticed a big difference in stability from my 300# GI contractor saw. That aspect surprised me because it's not something I had given thought to, but it's one of the things that makes it feel more like a full blown cabinet saw to me. It just doesn't budge.

The 3650 uses a cast blade shroud to connect the front and rear trunnions. It's a more elegant solution IMO than the connecting rods used on other saws, but the rods on most of the hybrids are notably larger diameter and are indexed at the socket to prevent twisting. The location of the motor relative the to the rods helps reduce racking issues on a hybrid relative to a traditional contractor saw...which the 3650 is not. Racking has been as non issue with the Sears hybrids AFAIK.

The stock rip capacity advantage goes to the 3650, but it's pretty simple to slide the rails of the 22114 to the right to gain another 10" or so. You'll likely never use the left side capacity, so my suggestion is to slide them right from the get go.

The DC advantages goes to the 22114. DC is better on teh 3650 than most, but you're limited to the 2-1/2" port unless you customize it. Not a big issue to me overall.

Obviously the 3650 includes a nice lift, which is a nice feature, but it's easy to add a mobile base to any saw. It just usually costs from $15-$20 to DIY, or $40-$60 to buy one. Maybe you don't need one...dunno.

Power should be comparable. Both use a smooth running quiet serpentine style belt. The 22114 uses a shorter belt. Both will cut anything with a properly tuned saw and the right blade.

The location of the motor is a bigger issue for me than some. My shop is tight and I was prone to lifting things with the motor and knocking the saw out of alignment. It got old fast for me, and was a major motivator in the move to a hybrid. I know it's not much of an issue for everyone...YMMV.

Both blade guards come off pretty easily....toss up here. Neither has a riving knife.

The 22114's miter gauge is no more accurate than others but it does offer some additional function with the fence and clamp. I still went with an aftermarket gauge anyway.

There is quite a difference in how many cranks it takes to raise/lower and bevel the blads. The 3650's gears are pretty fine IMO, but the upside is that it should allow really easy fine adjustment....it's the coarse adjustments that'll keep you cranking.

So it really boils down to your preference and which advantages mean to the most to you. I do think the disadvantages of the 22114 relative to the 3650's are more fixable than the cons of the 3650, but different aspects of each saw will mean different things to different people.

THere's a couple of pics below for your viewing pleasure...

Good luck in your quest!

Scott

[Andrew Benedetto]

I had a 3650, the Orion/sears design is superior. If you can tighten the tilt to 45* and notice how the cab. flexes outward. Try to find a service ctr. in your area. The Ridgid is not much better than my 70's sears CTS saw.
It is an update of an typical contractor saw and the plastic lock handle on the rip fence is just cheap and will break over time. The 13A motor is also not as good as the 15A sears.
I also think HD will get rid of all floor power tools as it seems by the resets in the stores and who knows what will happen to the ridgid tools since only HD sells them except for the refurbs.
Orion has spun off "Steel City "brand and seems to be doing well". Great CS from them as well. Ridgid had owners changing out defective arbor shafts themselves or going to service ctr's, in my case 1.5-2hrs away. That would be 6-8 hrs of driving in LA traffic from drop off and pickup and the saw . Guess what got returned to HD.
Lowes has a rebate from Delta on their CTS if that is what you want. I prefer the closed cab, and cab. mounted trunnions.