Shop-Built Dado Jig

[Tom Miller]

The greatest benefit I have derived from this type jig so far is the ability to work with both a straight bit and a dovetail bit....

In fact, that's what I ended up doing with this jig. I was making a loft ladder, and decided to go with sliding dovetails for the ladder rungs for the added strength.

Tom, any chance you can post some dimensions for us? and where did you get the knobs from? From what i can see, the bottom board also has a slotted hole, does it have a recess at the bottom side for the bottom end of the knob screw to ride in?

I don't recall the exact dimensions, but they're essentially dictated by the workpiece width, and the router base diameter, in that the base can't be running into the knobs.

The knobs and t-bolts are from a Rockler t-track kit. And, yes, the bottom has a recess for the t-bolt:




One other point to consider: It helps to tack sacrificial strips to the sides of your jig that butt up to the sides of the workpiece. This is where the router bit will exit the workpiece and into your jig, and the strips will minimize tearout.

Regards,
Tom

[thestinker]

You don't need either for a dado jig, you can simply index the cut on the router base, but then you're wed to a single router/bit size.

I'm not sure what you mean by index the cut. Can you explain?

RS

[foneman]

I made that exact one that tarheel is asking about. I use it quite a bit and have had good luck with it. It has a threaded rod that works as a self clamping and squaring mechanism. Just make sure you mark one side of your router to face the guide in each direction.

[foneman]

Forgot to mention that you do not need a router bit with any type bearing on it for this setup.