Bandsaw Wheels Coplanar Question

[Zbart]

I finally got the Grizzly G0513X bandsaw that i got for Christmas delivered last week and then set it up over the weekend. i was able to get the wheels coplanar but discovered that once coplanar, the wheels were slightly unparallel to the frame leading to a very slight forward tilt of the blade from the table. I am assuming that is is because the lower wheel is slightly inset from the upper wheel. i imagine i can shim the lower wheel out, but i'm wondering if this is necessary. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott

[cgallery]

I guess this kinda depends on how far off the blade is from square. The table, not the frame, should be the reference. But, some day you may want to cut some tenon cheeks with the bandsaw and you may discover that if the blade is inclined, it doesn't finish a clean cut down to the shoulder of the tenon. So I'd be inclined to fix it.

FWIW, I purchased my little Inca Euro 205 bandsaw used. It turned on, which is about all I can say it was capable of doing. However, knowing it was a high-end unit and worth some bucks, it was worth some time fixing it up.

On Inca and other European bandsaws, the blade doesn't ride in the middle of the wheel like American saws. Rather, the blade teeth ride off the front edge of the wheels.

When I adjusted the tracking so the blade sat correctly on the top wheel, the blade was about 1/8" too far forward on the bottom wheel.

Via trial and error, I was able to find that some .040" brass washers between the two bottom motor mount screws and the frame perfectly shimmed the bottom wheel (my model is direct drive) so the blade rides perfectly on both wheels.

I don't know how the Griz is made, but I would consider a similar approach.

Whether you should or shouldn't have to do this on a brand new saw is a whole nother topic, by the way. I guess it depends on how far off it is, and how picky you are.

If there are any signs that your saw has a manufacturing defect I'd get it exchanged. If you are just tuning it to perfection, then shim it and don't look back.

[HarmsWay]

I've used a non-Grizzly twin of your saw for about 4 years now. It's a great saw and good value. I'm not sure how much of an angle of tilt you're talking about but it may be easier to square it up by adjusting the table. Otherwise yes, shim one wheel or the other (and re-adjust for coplanar).

Remember to adjust for coplanar with the blade you about to use and at the tension you will use it. It only takes a minute.

Bob

[Stytooner]

Isn't there an adjustment that pushes the top wheel in and out?
Just from memory, but I thought my little Craftsman had this type adjustment there.
While it's easy to adjust the table tilt left and right, it's not as easy front to back. I think you would want it running as true as possible to get good cuts in most anything. If the blade is indeed tilted, you will have some cutting issues with bandsaw boxes and things of that nature.

[Thom2]

While it's easy to adjust the table tilt left and right, it's not as easy front to back.

I'm not real familiar with the grizz, but I'm sure I recall Iturra listing a shim kit (for the Delta's) in his catalog. The shims go between the table and trunnion which allows adjustment to bring the blade square to the table.

As long as the table is bolted to the trunnion assemblies, I can't see why this approach wouldn't work on any of the models.