Finally, the time has come! Help Needed

[Bruce Cohen]

After not eating lunch for two years, I finally saved enough to get a Brand New Rikon Deluxe 14" model # 10-325 band saw. This is the one that will re-saw wood up to 13"tall.

So now that I have it (my first band saw) and after reading what amounts to every book on the subject, I still have a ton of questions.

The saw came wired for 130V, 14A, and as Ihave two dedicated 20A lines in the garage (shop), I decided to leav that way in lieu of running a 240V 7A line into the shop. Any thoughts on this?

The saw is capable of two speeds, 1445 ft min or 2950 ft min and will take up tp a 3/4" blade. What speeds do I use and when do I use them. I haven't called Suffolk to order any "Timberwolf" blades yet, hopefully they'll have some suggestions.

The saw has a "stated" HP of 1.5, so I guess it will handle most of my needs.

I plan to re-saw stock ranging from 4/5 - 12/4 into thinner slices for jewelry boxes. Additionally, I gusee that I'll do some curve cutting too, along with using the saw for making some joints.

Out of the box, the saw looks pristine. I've only asembled the bade cabinet and a HTC 3000 mobile base. I still waiting for enough guys to help me lift the sucker onto the base cab,.

Once I get it up and running, I'll do a complete (as much as I'm capable of) review of the saw.

Meanwhile, I'd really appreciate any answers you can give me on speeds and blade widths and tooth amounts to use,

Thanks in advance,

Bruce

[MikeMcCoy]

I can help a little but I just got mine last week and I'm still waiting to move. The only thing I've done with mine is assemble the lower cabinet and look for shipping damage on the upper. Mostly I couldn't stand not opening the box. A friend got his a couple of weeks ago and ordered a 3/4 4TPI and a 1/2 3TPI blade for resawing. He's also runing it on a 20 amp breaker and it didn't hesitate a bit on 8 inch oak. He actually got a smoothder cut with the 1/2 blade.

My new place isn't going to have 220 so I'll set mine up the same. I can see some control advantages when doing tight turns at the slower speed but I kept my smaller 12" Delta for that.

[newbie2wood]

Here a link with info on blade speed and size:

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/bandsaw/index.htm
________
Roll blunts

[SARGE..g-47]

Afternoon Bruce..

Run it on the 120v as it is already wired for that at 1 1/2 HP. The HP thing is always questionable as most manufacters get that rated at the point the electric motor would melt and are allowed to print it. Forget the HP and look to the 14 amp draw as more important. You shouln't have a problem with 120v unless you are running another big draw as a DC on the same circuit.

You saw can take a 3/4" blade. I would never personally put a maximum of what the saw can take on as in most cases not necessary anyway. 1/2" should be all you need on that saw. Folks have made fantastic re-saws with a 1/2" Highland Woodslicer for years before they came out with a 3/4" recently.

The curve cutting is done with smaller blades and depends on how sharp of curves you negotiate. The sharper the curve, the thinner the blade required

Don't be confused with the 2 speed deal. Forget the slower speed unless you intend to do metal cutting. Take the speed to Redline and keep the petal to the metal. ha.. ha....

BTW.. I looked at that Deluxe 14" at Highland several weeks ago and was impressed with what I saw. I did not go over it meticously, but it was an eye catcher for a 14" BS on the surface. Hope it turns out that way when you take it to the trenches where then going gets a bit nastier!

Good luck and have fun...

[LarryG]

Sarge beat me to almost everything I was going to say.

Electrical: no problem with using your existing 120V circuit and no real benefit to going to 240V unless your total simultaneous load exceeds the capacity of your service.

Speeds: my Grizzly G0555 has two speeds, 1500 and 3200 FPM; it came from the factory set for 3200, the manual recommends that for most cutting operations, I've never seen fit to try the slower speed.

Blades: in addition to the Timberwolfs, for resawing a lot of people (myself included) like the Wood Slicer from Highland Hardware, or its its less expensive, identical-but-for-the-name cousin from Iturra Design.

EDIT: Phone number for Iturra is 888-722-7078. A "real" Wood Slicer costs around $30, the Iturra version is about $20. This is a 1/2" blade, BTW.

[onedash]

After not eating lunch for two years, Bruce

You should have not ate more expensive lunches and you could have got it sooner.


I just got the craftsman 14" only has an 8" resaw capacity. I didnt get any timberwolf blades yet but the craftsman blades seem pretty good to me.(my first bandsaw) with a 1/2" blade I tension it to the 3/4 mark.
not sure how smooth a cut I should get with that 1/2" 2/3 tooth blade but a couple passes in the planer and its good to go. 8" boards go pretty slow though. (again I don't have anything to compare feed rate speed/capability too)

[Greg.B]

Blades: in addition to the Timberwolfs, for resawing a lot of people (myself included) like the Wood Slicer from Highland Hardware, or its its less expensive, identical-but-for-the-name cousin from Iturra Design.

EDIT: Phone number for Iturra is 888-722-7078. A "real" Wood Slicer costs around $30, the Iturra version is about $20. This is a 1/2" blade, BTW.

This blade is truely top notch. I can make great cuts on my 10" $135 Delta. Turns a good saw into a great saw at a reasonable cost. Plus the cataloge you get with it, is worth more than you can imagine.

[Knottscott]

My advice is to call Suffolk Machinery, tell them what you have and what you'll be cutting, and take their recommendations on Timberwolf blades.