Anybody out there has ever used the dovetail jig from HF? Last time it was on sale for $29.99, I passed it since I have no idea how good it is. It looks close to the one from Rockler, I know most people use one from PC, which is too expensive to me. Just wondering is HF one is good enough for the money. Thanks in advance!
Dovetail Jig froM HF
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I have one and have used it a few times. I am not proficient on setting it up. But I was able to make some decent dovetails. Search this site for the instructions from Woodstock International for their D2796 Dovetail jig, on of them is a clone, or go to their website and down load it from them. The HF manual is junk like so many of the manuals. The site is www.woodstockinternational.com Once there type in D2796 in the search function and you should be able to download the manual. Make sure you get the proper Dovetail Bit and Bushing.
Tom -
I've got one, and have successfully made good dovetails with it.
It is very difficult to setup, though, requiring a lot of patience and a few test cuts before it's perfect. If I was making a lot of similar drawers, I'd have no qualms about using it. For just one or two drawers I think I'd learn handcut dovetails.
JRJRComment
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If you make set up blocks to repeatedly set up the depth of cut and the like you can make fine joints with it
It is not totally user friendly but it does the job
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Dr DaveComment
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I have one, initial setup was a PITA but with setup blocks made it is well worth the price.John HunterComment
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Rockler a better deal... IMHO
In this thread I posted a pic with the rockler template on the HF dovetail Jig.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=20064
Check the Rockler sail ad for theirs at I think $59. For that price you get, a smooth template, a longer jig that will actually do 12 inch boards, the bit ( I think I paid about $15 for my bit) and you get the collar for the router ( I paid $29 for a set).
Bottom line is the Rockler on sale is cheaper in the long run and a better product.Cut twice.... measure??Comment
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If you are considering doing dovetails as even a semi-regular part of building furniture, I strongly recommend that you look to the PC as the inexpensive dovetail jig. I've used the Rockler (which is easier to setup than the HF), and it was a MAJOR pain. If you are always making the same drawers, probably you'd be ok with either, but if there is variation, consider the PC. It is so much easier to setup. I think you can get the 1/2 blind 4210 for around 100$.
The real kicker is that people just starting into the idea of dovetails tend to buy inexpensive jigs, that are difficult to setup, then get discouraged and give the dovetail joint more of this mystic stigma. With a good jig, it's a fairly simple joint to make.
BTW, I personally have a Leigh jig, so I'm not telling you about the PC because "it's what I use".Keith Z. Leonard
Go Steelers!Comment
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I got a question: the PC 4210 can only do half blind dovetail? I am still learning about making dovetail joint. I could not understand why some jig said can do half blind, while others can do through dovetail. Is there anything to do with the template guide? sorry, I really have no idea of this at all. When you say easier to setup, what is the difference between those setups? Normally what do you have to do to set it up correct and precise? Thanks!If you are considering doing dovetails as even a semi-regular part of building furniture, I strongly recommend that you look to the PC as the inexpensive dovetail jig. I've used the Rockler (which is easier to setup than the HF), and it was a MAJOR pain. If you are always making the same drawers, probably you'd be ok with either, but if there is variation, consider the PC. It is so much easier to setup. I think you can get the 1/2 blind 4210 for around 100$.Comment
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Yes, the ones that do both have 2 different templates. The 1/2 blind dovetail, you cut both boards at the same time, and they are offset from each other by the width of the dovetail. For a through dovetail, you cut each board while in the front clamp. One board using a dovetail bit, then flip the guide over and cut the other board with a straight bit.
A through dovetail will reveal the joint on both the front and side of a drawer, a 1/2 blind, you only see the joint on the side. There are rabbetted 1/2 blind joints as well, where you have an overlay of the drawer front. You can also have overlay by gluing another board to the front of a through or 1/2 blind drawer box.
For all of the fixed jigs, you are limited to certain widths of material when making dovetails. With the Leigh jig, as it's completely unfixed, you can fit any sized members.
For a 1/2 blind with the Rockler jig, you setup a stop so that the router doesn't cut too far, this is unnecessary with the PC jig, as the template is adjustable for this purpose. Any 1/2 blind joint's "tightness" is controlled by router bit height. The through joint's "tightness" is controlled by move the the template further forward or back.
The 4212 comes with both templates, and PC also makes a mini-dovetail template. The Leigh jig has 1 template, but has different profiles on the tops and bottoms, so it can be used for both 1/2 blind and through.
Any questions, feel free, I'll gladly answer what I can.Keith Z. Leonard
Go Steelers!Comment
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Wood magazine tested 10 through-dovetail jigs for the March '07 issue. Might be worth reading before making a decision.BillComment
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All the jigs of that design are a pain to set up initially, because they are all the same, regardless of what they cost or what color they are. Once you go through the setup process a few times, and make some setup blocks its pretty easy.
Next step up is a completely different design ala a Liegh jig.Comment
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Afternoon xli1..
Anybody interested in a Keller Journeyman 1500 for through DT's, let me know. I have one set up ready to go and have never used it. I caught in on sale at Highland Hardware several years ago. I'm not sure why I bought it as I cut my DT's by hand? Spur of the moment thinking it was a good idea as I might use it in the future and on sale for $129.
If interested let me know. I'll let it go for $60 already set up and with the original dove-tail bit and straight bit that came with it still surrounded in that plasticy stuff as it came. BTW.. my Lie-Neilson dove-tail saw is not for sale at the moment and probably won't be in the foreseen future. :>)
A closing thought... learn to cut em by hand as it isn't that difficult. You choose how to space them and not end up with that jiggy-cut look that gives itself away. If it's spaced the same and perfect... it was probably a jig tha did it.
Regards...Comment
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