BS Guide Blocks or Bearings...

[jeff_1064]

So...I was under the impression that the bearings were the best...but i recently attended a class that was intended to "tune and improve your BS and your BS skills". The teacher said that the blocks are the way to go...

Lets discuss....

[LarryG]

Here's a thread from about six months ago that circles around this issue. jwaterdawg was thinking about upgrading the block guides on his Ridgid BS to Carter bearing guides:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=21418

I wrote, then: "My bandsaw is the very popular Grizzly G0555, which comes standard with Carter-style bearing guides. I don't have any complaint with them, per se, but I'm not at all persuaded they're that much of an 'upgrade' from conventional block guides. They have their theoretical advantages, but the world is full of bandsaws with block guides that are doing just fine. And bearing guides have disadvantages, too. The blade is not supported as close to the workpiece as with block guides; and you can't fit a blade smaller than 1/8" and use your bandsaw as a pseudo-scrollsaw (and in my experience, even a 1/8" blade can be tricky). ... I would regard a switch to bearing guides as a mostly lateral move with benefits far less than the cost of the kit would seem to suggest."

I'm far from a bandsaw expert but six months later I've not changed my opinion. I think bearings are more of an alternative system to blocks than a superior system, and vice-versa. Ford/Chevy, Coke/Pepsi, etc.

[BrazosJake]

I'm currently running cool blocks on my Ridgid and have about decided that's the worst way to go. They have to be redressed often to keep them square, or you loose bearing surface. Yes, I know, they're supposed to give your blade longer life, but I'm not impressed with the longevity of carbon steel blades even with them.

I'm considering other options, such as Iturra (about 1/3 the cost of the Carter), or going to plain ol steel. If I go to a carbide blade, as I'm thinking of, (if it lasts 5x as long as carbon, it will pay for itself) I'll switch to rollers. But the cool blocks are junk, IMO.

[drumpriest]

My craftsman 14" has carter style bearings as well. I like them. The main advantage is that the thrust bearing doesn't support with the face, like some less expensive systems.

[cgallery]

I purchased a used Inca 9" bandsaw that was a basket case. The tires were slapping, the guides worked for crap, etc.

It appeared that the guides that were in place might have been a cool block knock-off. They didn't fit correctly (round guide in a square hole), and they had a tendency to move no matter how much I tightened them.

After doing some research, I finally decided to make my own. I used a scrap of Jatoba (a pretty hard exotic). I never got to the point of soaking them in WD40 like many suggested. And I knew they would need to be dressed from time to time, so I made gobs so I'd always have enough to swap-in some good ones.

Well, I barely ever have to swap 'em. They cut and cut and cut and barely wear. I will probably soak them in some WD40 now because I think it will help keep the blade lubricated. But I'm very pleased. I can bury the blade in them, they last a long time, they are cheap, and my little tiny Inca BS can do scroll-saw like cutting now.

It costs nothing to try it.

[BrazosJake]

My craftsman 14" has carter style bearings as well. I like them. The main advantage is that the thrust bearing doesn't support with the face, like some less expensive systems.

I haven't tried it so I won't knock it, but seems to me the sideways thrust bearing would give less blade support since it would have a much smaller bearing surface.

[wardprobst]

I purchased a used Inca 9" bandsaw that was a basket case. The tires were slapping, the guides worked for crap, etc.

It appeared that the guides that were in place might have been a cool block knock-off. They didn't fit correctly (round guide in a square hole), and they had a tendency to move no matter how much I tightened them.

After doing some research, I finally decided to make my own. I used a scrap of Jatoba (a pretty hard exotic). I never got to the point of soaking them in WD40 like many suggested. And I knew they would need to be dressed from time to time, so I made gobs so I'd always have enough to swap-in some good ones.

Well, I barely ever have to swap 'em. They cut and cut and cut and barely wear. I will probably soak them in some WD40 now because I think it will help keep the blade lubricated. But I'm very pleased. I can bury the blade in them, they last a long time, they are cheap, and my little tiny Inca BS can do scroll-saw like cutting now.

It costs nothing to try it.

I'd suggest soaking them in LPS1 instead of WD40 if you are interested in lubricating them. WD is a good product but it absorbs dust more than LPS1. Dust is abrasive to some degree.
DP

[wardprobst]

I'm currently running cool blocks on my Ridgid and have about decided that's the worst way to go. They have to be redressed often to keep them square, or you loose bearing surface. Yes, I know, they're supposed to give your blade longer life, but I'm not impressed with the longevity of carbon steel blades even with them.

I'm considering other options, such as Iturra (about 1/3 the cost of the Carter), or going to plain ol steel. If I go to a carbide blade, as I'm thinking of, (if it lasts 5x as long as carbon, it will pay for itself) I'll switch to rollers. But the cool blocks are junk, IMO.

Jake,
I've been running cool blocks for over 10 years on my Delta and it's the most used machine in our shop and I've not had this problem. Are you sure your blade is running true?
Respectfully,
DP

[scorrpio]

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11206

I understand these are the ones to get. These ceramics are ultrasmooth and incredibly durable.

[cgallery]

I'd suggest soaking them in LPS1 instead of WD40 if you are interested in lubricating them. WD is a good product but it absorbs dust more than LPS1. Dust is abrasive to some degree.
DP

Okay. And it doesn't contain silicone, right? I did a little googling but didn't find anything certain.

And are there local retailers where I can buy this stuff? Amazon has it, but what about Home Depot or Lowes or Ace? Where do you buy yours?

Thanks for the tips.

[wardprobst]

Okay. And it doesn't contain silicone, right? I did a little googling but didn't find anything certain.

And are there local retailers where I can buy this stuff? Amazon has it, but what about Home Depot or Lowes or Ace? Where do you buy yours?

Thanks for the tips.

I bought mine at a local hardware store but most electronic type supplies carry it also- MCM electronics for one. I don't believe it has any silicone in it- here's a link to a FWW article that has other sources and recommendations in it-
http://www.lpslabs.com/company/news/finewoodworking.pdf
It has an 800 number you can call to get a local retailer. I bought a 5 gallon can last time which was probably close to a lifetime supply for me but I was using it on the job at the time.
HTH,
DP