Table Saw Opinion

[JTimmons]

The fence that comes with Griz 1023's is a Shop Fox fence, I couldn't tell you how good it is, I got lucky with mine bought it used and it came with a Uni-fence which I truely love, no more measuring. I have heard that the Shop Fox fence is pretty good.

I didn't have a problem with the BT fence locking down, but it's accuracy was horrible for me, always had to break out with a square or tape measure.

The biggest difference that I see in a Hybrid vs Cabinet is the power.
Hybrid saws offer the same set up with the cabinet, cast iron table and trunnions, but with a lower powered motor at 2HP and below.

[lcm1947]

Thanks Jtimmons for the reply. Well, I could always buy a better fence I suppose and for the price probably should plan on it up front anyway. Boy I sure like the description and looks of the DeWalt hybrid model #DW746. Anyone own one?

[Knottscott]

Thanks, I appreciate all the help and comments as I'm sure jp-spins does. When the term hybrid is used when referring to a TS exactly what saws are involved? Sadly I don't have 220 volts so at least mine will have to be 110 volts. I hadn't even considered Grizzly but I'm headed over there now to check them out as well as the others that are mentioned here. The other really important thing is a good solid fence. My current 3100's fence just never locks down the same each time so I have to check it each and every time and I really want to be able to trust that feature. What's the fence like on the Grissly 1023? Or would I have to purchase a better one if I went with that particular saw?

The 1023 comes with two fence choices depending on the suffix of the model number...the "Z" has the original black fence...some like it, some don't...it's not overly popular. The other choice is the SF Classic...an excellent commercial Biese clone....no worries IMO...it's a tank!

I don't know if there's a standard definition of the term hybrid for TS, but my interpretation refers to a major design revision to the conventional contractor saw that essentially moves the motor from outboard to inboard. The outboard motor is the root cause for some of the significant issues with conventional contractor saws...added space, longer drive belt, difficult DC and a bumping/lifting hazard when tilting the motor which can knock alignment out. There's not much advantage to having the outboard motor anymore so the hybrid design makes alot of sense for alot of people, because they offer the same duty rating and electrical needs of a contractor saw but with fewer of the disadvantages associated with that outdated design, which was initialy developed with portability in mind and easy motor removal....with the evolution of the portable jobsite saw (Bosch 4000, DW744, Ridgid 2400, PC 3812, etc), most contractor saws are now a misnomer because they're typically used as a stationary saw in a wood shop by hobbyists as opposed to a jobsite by a contractor. Hybrids can have full or partial enclosures, though many of the newer generations have a full enclosure that offers DC comparable to a cab saw. The motors are all 2hp or less and run on 110v...in most cases they're convertable to 220v. The trunnion systems vary a bit...many are very similar to a contractor saw but with more robust connecting rods (Delta, Jet, Steel City, Craftsman) . Some offer a design that uses a cast blade shroud instead of connecting rods (DeWalt, GI, Grizzly, Sunhill). Most have the trunnions mounted from the table top, but a couple offer cabinet mounted trunnions for very simple blade alignment (Steel City, Craftsman...both made by Orion). Jet and Hitachi also make what appears to be a slightly downscaled hybrid that appears alot like a contractor saw but still offers an internal motor...these are at the entry level price ranges ($400-$500).

A full 3hp cabinet saw is still simply a more robust tool made more for the demands of commercial use, but is something that many serious hobbyists aspire to own...it's often more "want" than "need" b/c with a good blade and proper setup, a contractor saw or hybrid will meet the vast majority of cutting needs without the need for 220v, and often for several hundred less than a full cab saw. In the $1k range there's a bit of an overlap between the full retail price of the more fully equipped hybrids and an entry level cabinet saw...the available electical supply is often the deciding factor. Sale prices on hybrids are more common than on full cabinet saws, so a small price gap can widen if you're timing is right.

Regarding the DW746 - It was an early generation hybrid that was the class of the field when introduced. Well built, good performance...the knocks were that the fence wasn't on par with the Biese clones offered by top contractor saws in the same price range or cab saws for just a bit more. Compared to newer generation hybrids in the same price range, the DW offers steel wings as standard issue vs cast iron, and doesn't have a full cabinet. The 746 has a robust trunnion design... a similar design is offerd by GI, Grizzly, and Sunhill...all of which offer solid cast wings and full enclosures... the GI and Griz offer a Biese clone fence too, so feature wise, the newer versions have some advantage, and appear to be stronger value IMHO....either should serve well though. The DW does offer a nifty optional slider though... keep in mind that it's available for most standard size saws for about the same additional cost ($300-$400), so it's not limited to use on the 746.

[lcm1947]

Thanks for that excellent reply Dustmight. Greatly appreciated and helpful. Well it seems like each saw has pros and cons. I'll just have to study them all and see what I think. Thanks again.