How to make/use Mortising Jig for plunge router

[gjat]

I read this article from Highland Woodworking, but I don't really understand the exact technique for placing the wood and how the router is set.

Article: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...n=Custom&ID=29

I've learned tons of practical stuff from reading threads here, and have realized I'm lucky I haven't injured myself with some of the stuff I've done. Before I embark on attempting to utilize this jig, has anyone here used this set-up that can illuminate my feeble mind?
Thanks.

[AlanWS]

The idea is to clamp your stock to the inside of the jig, with the surface you want to cut facing up, and even with the height of the edge of the jig. A deep throat clamp works well, but so does a pair of wedges facing opposite directions to clamp the stock solidly. Your router rides on top of the jig, and needs an edge guide to follow. Set the edge guide to put the bit where you want it, usually centered on the stock. The little stops on the edge of the guide can be used to set the beginning and end of the mortise. If you are cutting a lot of mortises, stop blocks to set the position of your stock in the jig can also help.

To cut a mortise, clamp the stock, set the stops and edge guide, then start the router, plunge about 1/4" deep (or less) and cut the length of the mortise. Go back to the start, plunge 1/4" deeper than last pass, and make another pass. Why not go back and forth, rather than cut in one direction? The reason is that routers tend to pull to their left as they cut forward. You want to cut in the direction that pulls the edge guide against the jig. (Probably that's left to right, but that depends on how you orient the jig.) If you go the other direction, you risk the cut not following the line you want. Other jigs will work if you do that -- this one must be used as Frid says.

In the picture at your link, you can see Frid's router on the jig, the edge guide under it is riding along the outside edge of the jig, and the workpice is not visible inside the jig. Frid will pull the router toward himself (left to right from the viewer's perspective.)

[gjat]

I think I understand, now.
The two walls don't have to be parallell, but the router bit has to be paralell with the one wall that the stock is clamped too. I was getting confused while reading their instructions to build it.
Then the stop blocks just detrmine the height of the mortise..?

[drumpriest]

Ha, I reply withy a video link...

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...=mortise+video