Framing Square adjustment

[niki]

Good day

I have two framing squares and they are very useful. The problem is that usually, when you buy them, they are out of square.

When I adjusted them, I encountered another problem, the leg width is not the same length wise (tapered), which means that they cannot be adjusted to 4 sides square but only 2 sides.
Because I’m using the outsides most of the time, I decided to adjust those sides.

The punching idea is not mine, I saw it on the Net.

After every punching, you have to start the check from the beginning, it takes some time but you are “paid” by getting perfect square.

Regards
niki

[niki]

[stav]

Good tip. I'll have to check my square when I get home. Thanks

[crokett]

Niki, that is a great explanation but I take a different tack. My solution is to not use a framing square for fine woodworking. I use mine for what it says - framing - where while accuracy is desireable tolerances are also greater. I have a square that IS a perfect square for woodworking.

[niki]

Thank you Stav and David

David
I have 4 of those Japanese steel squares ($40 each) but sometimes I need a longer arm square and if I already have them, why not to “square” them…

niki

[lcm1947]

I think it's a great idea and I'll be trying it on both my squares cause they sure aren't doing me any good ever since I found out they weren't square. Just been hanging there. Came close to tossing them a couple of times. Glad I didn't now. Thanks Niki.

[L. D. Jeffries]

Love your post Niki, especially the pic's. Quetion: in the photos you show yellow arrows on each side of the square in where to "punch" it. Guess I'am confused. Maybe a little more explaination? Thanks

[niki]

Thank you for your replies

L.D. Jeffries
On the last picture, I made two arrows to indicate the area that you have to punch if the angle is less than 90*, in case that one punch is not enough (you don't want to punch at the same dimple again and again).

On the picture before the last one, again, I'm showing the area to punch if the angle is more than 90* (you can see that I made many punches).

In other words; if the angle is less than 90*, punch around the inside corner. If more than 90*, punch around the outside corner.

niki

[LarryG]

If I may add one other little tip to Niki's excellent post ... I like to flip the square over between punches. If you punch it repeatedly on the same side, there's a chance it will start to cup ever-so-slightly where the two legs join. Dividing the punches between the two sides helps keep it flat.

[niki]

Larry
Thank you so much for mentioning to turn the square between the punches.

I did it like that but forgot to mention it, you can see it on the 4th picture.

Well, nobody is perfect...

Thanks
niki

[should_have]

The insider corner of your square has a semi-circle angle. Do I need to cut semi-circle in my corner like that, to adjust/square my square? I assume the other circle is for hanging the square. Thanks for all your post and keep up with the tips.

[niki]

Thank you Should_have

No, you don't have to. I made it long time ago because when I was checking with the inside part, the work corner could go inside the semi-circle without interference.
If you noticed, I rounded also the outer corner for the same reason.

niki

[TheRic]

Out of curiosity how often should a person check their squares for squareness?

[Black wallnut]

Out of curiosity how often should a person check their squares for squareness?

At least every time you drop it!

[Slik Geek]

I just finally checked my framing square (after owning it for 20 years). Yikes, I was surprised how "unsquare" it was! (No wonder I used to have problems getting the BT-3000 SMT set perfectly square to the blade years ago - I was using my framing square to set the SMT).

I found this thread AFTER I decided to check my square and fix it. I used the similar technique found in the article in ShopNotes #78, pp 10, 11 (A New Angle on Framing Squares).