Little BS Gloat ... $1.17/lb

[Knottscott]

Does it have a roll pin on one side?

No roll pin...

[messmaker]

That is a really fine looking tool. I bet it will serve you well.

[Stytooner]

No roll pin...

Yeah, I noticed that on the little one too.
A pin would be more desireable I think. That would help to keep them from turning in on the blade. Mine are tight, so they don't move, but the HF has a roll pin. Simple solution really. Being 3/16 thick, you would want at least two plates. One for a ZCTP at 90 degrees and the other for 50 degree and less. They don't tilt perfectly with the slot on the plate.

Perhaps a small setscrew on the side of the ZCTP would make it adjustable enough to sort of snap in place.

[SARGE..g-47]

Very crafty and a steal at $189, Dustmight! Less than the price of 2 Forrest II's and will last longer. :>)

And no, it's not a MM 16. But... have you ever changed 1" blades tensioned at 30,000 psi designed for re-saw for that required 1/4" or 3/8" 6 hook tooth blade for the other job? Let's see, we either switch to the cool-block assemblies or take out the Euro guides and insert hard-wood dowels that will work for those blades under 1/2" that we need to properly match the job. Properly tension it and re-set the guides to proper clearance and track it. Now we're ready to make that curved leg cut, by golly.

No band-saw is perfect for everything as no one blade will do it all, IMO. I kept my 12" Jet after almost selling it to keep a 1/4" 6 tpi on as a go to on curved cuts and cuts too small that I consider dangerous on the TS. It takes up space, but it sure makes life easier and quicker. By knowing the strenghts and limitations of any machine, you will be able to achieve the maximum and avoid the screw-ups by trying to make it do what it won't.

It would probably be good for each of us to throughly read "The Bandsaw BooK by Lonnie Byrd. The bandsaw is the safest large power tool in the shop, but it is also the "most finicky". Without proper adjustment, alignments, correct blade match and lack of proper operator technique, you won't achieve what your particlur machine (regardless of size, etc.) is capable of, IMO.

Enjoy.. and maybe someday that "sweetie" might be sitting beside that "big boy" MM 16 you mentioned and you can reap the fruits of what each were designed for!

Regards...

[Knottscott]

...And no, it's not a MM 16. But... have you ever changed 1" blades tensioned at 30,000 psi designed for re-saw for that required 1/4" or 3/8" 6 hook tooth blade for the other job?...

Thanks for the great insights Sarge. Nope, never changed a blade on an MM16.....I just make a call and say, "hey Tom...can I come over and resaw some 12" wide oak boards on your MM16?". Then I let him worry about the setup! (really handy to have a wwer for a best friend! )

Honestly, my little Ryobi worked well within it's limitations, but there wasn't alot of adjustments, blade selection, and modifications that were worthwhile...not so with the 22400, so I just may look into Lonnie's book.

Thanks,
Scott

[drumpriest]

I'm not sure if it's Rikon or Yukon tools, but I'lll tell you this. I was at woodcraft yesterday, and looked hard at the 14" Rikon, and I see NO differences except the color scheme, the the increased resaw. They even have the dust plate that mine has.

If it's a Yukon, it's one great knock-off.