Router table fence setup

[greencat]

I was wondering if anyone had some tips on setting the fence on a router table? For example if I want to cut a 3/8 rabbit into a large panel. I would assume that I would run the panel flat on the table then the position of the fence would determine how deep the rabbit would be into the panel.

Currently I do this through trial and error by making adjustments to the fence but it is difficult to measure since the bit is round and its difficult to make minor adjustments.

Should I only move one side of the fence for minor adjustments? Should I run the panel on its edge and use the height adjustment?

[LarryG]

I would assume that I would run the panel flat on the table then the position of the fence would determine how deep the rabbit would be into the panel.

That's correct. Rotate the bit by hand until the edge of one flute is positioned at 90deg to the face of the fence ... this takes some practice, and a machinist's rule or a setup bar of the appropriate size. Make trial cuts on scrap until you're sure you have it right.

I lock the far end of my table's fence fairly tight and make the final adjustment at the near end only, using either the palm of my hand or a Fine Adjusting Tool (a.k.a. "a hammer").

You could stand the panel on edge but then you're just trading one setting (height, depth) for the other.

[bigsteel15]

Or, use a rabbet bit with a top bearing sized for 3/8" wide. Then you can just run the fence to approximately the OD of bearing. The bearing would guide the work.

[LarryG]

Very good, Brian. I have never used my rabbetting bit set in my router table, I always have just used a straight bit there, but that would indeed do the trick and very nicely too.

Adding to what I wrote earlier, problems like this are when a set of the brass setup bars from Whiteside (or the equivalent) really earn their keep. To make a 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet I just grab the 3/8" bar and quickly set the bit height, then the fence ... I can usually get both settings right on the money the first try. MUCH quicker and easier than fiddling with a rule. (And when I do use a bearing-guided bit in the table, for roundovers or whatever, I use one of the bars to isolate the bearing from the fence face ... so a set of these would be useful even when using the rabbetting bit method.)

[RodKirby]

I use a different approach to Larry (hammer?)

And, I've just finished a micro-adjust device for my "new" router table.

Anyone interested in pics, or do you guys figure "it's a waste of time"?

BTW to the original questions:
Test piece/s - ALWAYS (however you move the fence).
Always flat (not on edge). Much easier to move the fence - and a safer cut.

[LarryG]

Anyone interested in pics, or do you guys figure "it's a waste of time"?

Waste of time? Waste of time? I don't know why you'd say that, Rod. I'm confident I speak for many in saying that it's always a treat to see the latest gadget you've cooked up in your "shed."

[greencat]

[QUOTE=RodKirby]I use a different approach to Larry (hammer?)

And, I've just finished a micro-adjust device for my "new" router table.

Anyone interested in pics, or do you guys figure "it's a waste of time"?

QUOTE]

I would be interested

[RodKirby]

Kirby's Micro-Adjust...

Some notes:
The Router fence "evolved", hence the strange looking DC port, which accidently gave me a mounting position for the MA.
The MA actually took about 4 days of design/test, which is why the fixed portion MDF ended up on a plywood base.
The 1/4"-20 connector was great for this.
Yeah - I know; way more adjustment travel than needed - but it works!
AND - easy on/off

[Popeye]

Don't want to steal a thread but..... Rod if you and Lee lived alittle closer and cooperated you two could corner the market on shop gadgets within a year. And BTW I'm gonna steal that design and with some modifications it'll work for me Pat

[RodKirby]

Don't want to steal a thread but..... Rod if you and Lee lived alittle closer and cooperated you two could corner the market on shop gadgets within a year. And BTW I'm gonna steal that design and with some modifications it'll work for me Pat

Pat - to me, this is what the forum is all about - IDEAS!

To me, no one "steals" a design - they see something and think "now if I changed ... this could work for me"

You have 'made my day'

[greencat]

Very nice - I hope to add something like this to my table.

[jhgrady]

Hi

I would use a 3/8" drill bit as a spacer.

John

[MBG]

If the panel is large you might find it easier to do with a hand held router with the piloted bit. I bought a set from MLCSWOODWORKING and it has several pilot bearings.

Mike

[sbs]

I was wondering if anyone had some tips on setting the fence on a router table? ...

I recommend the book Woodworking with the Router by Hylton.

I got my first router & table a few months ago and bought this book based on recommendations on this forum. It answers a lot of these questions.

[drumpriest]

I use a rabbiting bit when I can, unless the rabbit is some odd size. (which it often is with ply). For doing bottom panels, for instance, I'll use a scrap of the actual panel material as a setup bar for the fence. You can indeed move just 1 side of the fence ever so slightly to make a fine adjustment. The bit is circular so it won't matter.

Rod's fence sure is nifty though, good idea.