Radial arm saw

[conductorjonz]

I very rarely post since, but I need advice...and this is the place I look first. You all seem to have tons of great ideas and advice...so thanks in advance!

I was approached with the opportunity to purchase a Craftsman (Emerson Tools) Electronic Radial Arm Saw for 100.00. I looked it over and it was used lightly 5 years or so ago, and has been sitting since. Seems to work well, including the "electronic" miter, height, etc gauge. I was also told it was purchased for around three or four hundred bucks new.

I haven't used a saw like this since high school...20 years back...and realize there are some inherent dangers with this type of saw. I also found out on-line this, and many other saws by Craftsman (Emerson) had been recalled due to fact that the blade guard that doesn't cover the whole blade. I called the 800-hotline and a retro-fit kit is being sent along with a new owners manual for free.

In the meantime I'm going to clean the saw up and give it a going over. The blade will stay off of it and it will remain unplugged until the retro-fit is complete.

Any thoughts you all have would be most appreciated. Also any advice on the capabilities of this type of saw would help me a ton!

Attached is a picture of the model railroad I'm building for my living room that you all share responsibility for because of this forum. I built hardwood furniture for it in the style I call "Early American Depot". My wife loves the work of the cabinets that I was able to do thanks to you all. I've never taken a project like this on...so stay tuned.

Thanks again!

Greg

[steve-u]

I still have a 1983 vintage Craftsman RAS that I bought new. I used it a lot on my first house buidling rooms in the basement and it served me well. I did not install the new guard yet as I kind of like it as it is and am careful where I put my hands. The new guard will be safer for ripping but I now use my BT3100 for ripping. RAS are great for crosscutting. I just line the cut line up to the cut in fence, turn it on, and go.

I think you will enjoy your RAS. If you have the manual follow the instructions on how to align everything in the order as shown. Though I have not noticed the problem that other seem to have with a negative hook blade to feel most comfortable with your saw buy a blade that has negative hook angle for it if it does not have one already.

Your model railroad looks very cool and I bet you are having a lot of fun doing it. Below is a link to a blade that has negative hook angle. If the blade you have works well and does not scare you by "climbing up" toward you I would not worry about it too much.

Steve

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU91R010...4?ie=UTF8&s=hi

[buddyroo]

From what I have seen, the electronic saws are the least popular when sold on Ebay, perhaps due to problems with the electronics.

Jon Eakes' book goes into great detail on tuning up the saw. You can buy it online.

[massanutten]

Any power tool is inherently dangerous. I've used a radial arm for over 20 years. Not knowing how to use your tool and complacency is usually the root cause of most accidents. Getting an owner's manual is the best thing for you. There are also other books out there that describe RAS and their functions.

Since you already bought the saw, the decision has already been made. No need to go over the plus and minus of table vs radial (I’m sure there is a bias on this site); electronic vs manual - you bought a nice saw for $100. RAS saws offer the capability of ripping and cross cutting as well as miter, dado and rabbet cuts. With attachments they will also work as a shaper or router and disk sander – I’ve used all these functions. I’ve seen a drum sander/planer for the radial as well but never used one.

One thing I recommend you do is to buy a sacrificial table top. The RAS is designed to cut a very little into the top. I rubber cemented a piece of 1/4 in plywood over the entire top. I also recommend you buy a new blade – typically the more expensive – the more satisfied the cut (YMMV)

The new guard is nice in one way - encloses everything to the top table. As with any safety devise - can also be a pain. I used the original guard for 15 years without a problem.

I’m pretty sure you can download the manual from a sears website – a quick Google will find it. Don’t be afraid to use your new saw – as with any power tool, just respect it.

From my owner’s manual, there are a couple of pages of warnings and cautions. I won’t go over basic safety items such glasses and hearing protection and the like (all very important and should be followed). Some tips for you so you can start using your new saw:

- Stand on the handle side when cross cutting. Pull the cutting head with the hand nearest the handle.

- Make sure the hand holding the stock is never in line with the blade. (This forum says “paint the red line”)

- Return the cutting head completely to the back of the saw table after each cut. The saw should be set up so that the blade will not move forward under its own weight or if the machine is vibrating (this is where your new guard will come in handy – my guard falls on the table just beyond my fence so the saw cannot accidentally move onto the table)

- When ripping, make sure that the stock is fed against the direction of the blade (from the side where the saw blade rotates upward toward the operator). The blade should extend slightly into the table. The motor head must be locked at the correct height and angle.

- Do not use radial arm saws for ripping unless the spreader (riving knife) and anti-kickback devices are provided and properly adjusted.

Hope you enjoy your new saw – I’ve had many years of enjoyment from mine; and yes, I also own a BT-300.

[cabinetman]

I've had several RAS's over the years and used $100 - $125 is about the best deal. The crosscut is what makes the RAS worth having. Long narrow pieces can also be cut on a TS, but is easier on a RAS. I don't recommend ripping with the saw as a hand or push stick has to pass between the blade and the fence. It's sheer technique to have a smooth pass (if at all possible) when ripping. There's a point on longer stock when a re-position takes place. Binding happens with slight off-the-fence movement caused by this reposition. Other than that, it's like any other tool or procedure, it takes paying attention to what you are doing and concentration. Your mind HAS to be on what's going on. No distractions.

As far as set-up and alignment, IMHO the RAS has more individual alignment settings than any other tool, as it has so many features. All of them should be in spec.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[scorrpio]

I bought a 20-year-something-old craftsman RAS (no electronics) off Ebay for ~$120, got the new table/guard for it free, fully cleaned/retuned it and it is an excellent tool. To add versatility, I modified the tabletop somewhat. I routed dadoes in all 3 sections of the top and mounted dual T-tracks there. I also put brass threaded inserts into the tabletop and attached 1/4" melamine-faced hardboard with machine screws to use as sacrificial top. The T-tracks are about flush with hardboard - maybe 1/64" lower. Fence is made up of two mitered sections of aluminum extrusion. All the T-track and extrusions are from 8020.

[massanutten]

Scorripo - Got a picture of your setup? I'm trying to understand how the T-tracks are for (clamp/hold down; stop block; etc.)? How do you perform miter cuts with the T-tracks in place?