Blade Alignment Problem

[lago]

I have a Powermatic 63 TS that was given to me about 1 1/2 yrs ago. Right after I received it, I contacted Powermatic in regards to blade alignment. They faxed me an article out of a woodworking mag and I had the blade pretty much aligned. It worked but had a bit of a bind.

I am now in the process of installing a DC system and installed a dust port between the TS and TS stand. When I had it all apart, I cleaned and relubed the saw and realigned the blade to the miter slot.

After putting it back together, I made my first rip cut w/fence and couldn't finish it. There was about 1/8" difference between the leading and trailing edge of the blade. I have tried to realign it again but am unable to move it enough to get it back in alignment.

Does anyone have any ideas on what to do next? Right now, I am waiting on LOML to get back home to help me move this sucker from the stand to the workbench so I can get a good look underneath.

TIA

Ken

[Stytooner]

If you have the blade aligned to the miter slots, then next you could adjust the fence to the slots or the blade. I would imagine that you can adjust the fence. Not sure what type fence you have.
There is a manual online that you can download and it should tell you how to do it. Let me know if you can't locate it. I think I have it somewhere in PDF.

[Tom Hintz]

I agree, unless someting weird happened and the blade went out of alignment with the slot, the fence needs to be corrected to the slot as well. I set my fence about 0.003" out at the rear (away from the blade) to be sure there is no binding on the last part of the cut. If you can find the manual for the saw, this adjustment should be easy.

[lago]

I wasn't too clear on the 1/8" out of alignment. The fence is aligned OK to the miter slot. I cannot get the blade in alignment with the miter slot. The trailing edge of the blade is about 1/8" off. There are 4 bolts that attach the assembly to the table. I have loosened all of them and am still unable to get it back in alignment.

Next step is to get it on the floor where I can turn it upside down and get a closer look at the inside of it.

I do have the original manual. It states 'that the blade was aligned to the miter slot at the factory'. The troubleshooting guide indicates that the table should be aligned for this problem but does not give any additional information.
Ken

[cabinetman]

Ken

This is an alignment procedure that can be applied to most any table saw. Other than a sacrificial face on the fence that is out, or the fence slipping after starting the cut (which happens), it could be the operator not feeding tight to the fence.

First, with the saw unplugged, run the blade all the way up. Next, mark a tooth and roll it to the front near the table. Measure the distance to the edge of the slot or a line built into the table that runs from the front of the saw to the rear. Next, roll the sawblade to the rear of the table and measure to the same place. If there is a discrepency of any sort, you'll have to adjust the table to the blade, or the arbor to the table, whichever ability the brand of saw allows you.

Once that is completed, while the blade is still in it's up position, measure the same tooth at the front to the locked down fence, and at the rear of the fence with the same tooth. That measurement should be the same. If it isn't, adjust the fence so that it is.

After this is all done, you can perform this all over again with a different tooth that is 180 deg from the one you first used. If it is out, you have runout.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[lago]

I have done all of the alignment procedures and still have a problem. I am down to about 1/16" but it is still too much. A friend suggested that I get a file and round out some of the holes but I think that will be too much work. I now recall that right after I last aligned the blade, I had installed the DC port underneath and also some 1/4" ply on the back, which was temporarily held on by duct tape. I had to make a angled cut and was changing the angle when it started binding and I remembered the ply in the back. It had pulled it off the back of the saw and I then removed it. I don't think that could have caused a problem though. Not sure now what to try.

[cgallery]

I assume this is a contractor saw and not a cabinet saw? Where alignment is way out of wack like this, you need to loosen all four trunion bolts and use a stick of wood and hammer to move it. In instances where finer alignment is desired, you loosen three bolts and pivot on the fourth.

If in doubt, I would remove all the plywood you've added to make certain it isn't interfering with adjustment.