Is 2 1/4 HP enough for MOST table routing?

[Jeffrey Schronce]

OK- in case anyone was interested. I used the excuse of the $25 off Tool Shop coupon at Amazon to buy the Kit w/ edge guide. I also bought a jasper jig to allow the router to use PC bushings (mostly for the Rockler dovetail jig I bought). I didn't notice the ship date wouldn't be until late September, so I may cancel and get the cheaper combo kit.

Does anyone know how accurate the Amazon estimated ship date for out of stock items is?

You ended up buying the Bosch kit? If that is the case then the only thing needed for PC bushing utilization is the Bosch RA1100 which runs about $5-6. It can be purchased as part of kit RA1125 for around $25, but honestly you will probably use the RA1100 and PC style bushings instead of the ones included with the RA1125 kit. If you want the Jasper "jig" for things such as speaker hole cut outs etc, then that maybe an reasonable answer, however if it is just to be able to use PC style bushings the RA1100 is probably the better way to go.
Have you used the Rockler jig yet? If you didn't get a super great deal on the jig you may want to consider the PC DT jig instead. Much, much easier to use IMHO.

[Knottscott]

Does anyone know how accurate the Amazon estimated ship date for out of stock items is?

My experience has been that they typically ship ahead of the estimated date.....sometimes considerably sooner, but if you're eager, it's not something you can count or that they'll promise.

[BigguyZ]

You ended up buying the Bosch kit? If that is the case then the only thing needed for PC bushing utilization is the Bosch RA1100 which runs about $5-6. It can be purchased as part of kit RA1125 for around $25, but honestly you will probably use the RA1100 and PC style bushings instead of the ones included with the RA1125 kit. If you want the Jasper "jig" for things such as speaker hole cut outs etc, then that maybe an reasonable answer, however if it is just to be able to use PC style bushings the RA1100 is probably the better way to go.
Have you used the Rockler jig yet? If you didn't get a super great deal on the jig you may want to consider the PC DT jig instead. Much, much easier to use IMHO.

Yeah, I got the Bosch kit with the edge guide and a couple of bushings. I got the Jasper base plate for a couple of reasons: 1) the RA1100 adapter IS indeed only about $7. BUT- the shipping is around $8!!! So the Jasper Jig is about $17 and it's free shipping. So I can use the Jasper jig with about any other type router I may get in the future as well, and it's about the same price as the RA1100 with the $8+ shipping...

Why are the PC bushings wanted so much more than say the Bosh kit available for $22?

I got the $59.99 deal on the Rockler DT jig. I didn't want to spend much (another $90) to get the PC jig. And it seemed like the Rockler is a bit more idiot proof then the PC- or am I wrong there? (probably am...)

[drumpriest]

I have that Bosch kit and am very happy with it. Cabinetman, I don't think that I could build what I build without a plunge router. I don't see tipping my fixed base router into a deep mortise with a spiral cutter running.

The Bosch plunge is silky smooth, and I think you'll like it. As to the bushings, I like the bosch bushing setup better, but there is an adaptor for the PC bushings which are more commonly available. The adaptor is about 15$.

I don't think that the rockler jig is more idiot proof than the PC jig. In fact there are more adjustments to make on the rockler jig. Peronsally though, I'd take a leigh jig over either.

[BigguyZ]

OK- You all obviously hold a lot of influence over me. I canceled the Jasper jig and bout the Bosch bushing kit that includes the RA1100 bushing.

ALSO- I've decided to return the Rockler Dovetail jig, since although the PC is more $$, it has templates for much more types of joints and won't be more $$ after I have to buy the Rockler addition....

Now- I have about a month to wait for my new router (Amazon is out of stock of the combo with the edge guide + other extras). You think the extras are worth the extra $20+ wait?

[drumpriest]

I think that it will probably be worth the wait. The edge guide is pretty nice, the bushings are sure to come in handy as well. Don't let the wait stop you, as Amazon is OFTEN incorrect about the wait times.

They told me about 5 weeks for my bosch kit, but it arrived within 10 days.

[BigguyZ]

Well an update for anyone who cares... I returned the Rockler DT jig, and the manager there (well, I assume he was a manager) gave me 25% off the PC 4212 kit (I could have had any of them for 25% off, but chose the 4212 over the 4210 or 4216 b/c it seems like the most bang for the buck). So the PC kit was only a bit more than $60 more than the Rockler jig (at sale price)!

I didn't take the Rockler kit out of the box, but I did see it set up in the store. The PC unit feels MUCH sturdier, and better built. Also, the jig has a ton of guides build into the templates to get a depth gauge/ etc.

Thanks for everyone's input on getting the PC jig. I only hope I can be as thrilled with the Bosch Router as I am with the jig.... Can't wait to get the bushing kit and router to make some dovetails! Time to find some projects that need drawers....

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Well an update for anyone who cares... I returned the Rockler DT jig, and the manager there (well, I assume he was a manager) gave me 25% off the PC 4212 kit (I could have had any of them for 25% off, but chose the 4212 over the 4210 or 4216 b/c it seems like the most bang for the buck). So the PC kit was only a bit more than $60 more than the Rockler jig (at sale price)!

I didn't take the Rockler kit out of the box, but I did see it set up in the store. The PC unit feels MUCH sturdier, and better built. Also, the jig has a ton of guides build into the templates to get a depth gauge/ etc.

Thanks for everyone's input on getting the PC jig. I only hope I can be as thrilled with the Bosch Router as I am with the jig.... Can't wait to get the bushing kit and router to make some dovetails! Time to find some projects that need drawers....

You're my boy Bigguy. That 4212 kit is head and shoulders above the Rockler jig. You seem pretty excited about it and you should be. It's great. You can read that manual once while awaiting the router, then simply follow the directions that are actually printed on the jig itself and knock about perfect half blind DTs on your 1st or 2nd try. The router bit depth maybe incorrect on the jig (a few have notice this) so you may need to adjust the bit up a tiny bit. WHen you get the perfect just make sure the re-set the bit depth gauge on the PC jig so you have a perfect reference for your set up in the future. I have never saw or heard of the 4216. What does it include, the mini-half blind DT template?
You will be blown away by the Bosch kit. Trust me. Also, read the manual on that one. Lots of tricks and tips for 1st timer.
If you have any questions on either feel free to PM me. I have used the Bosch for years and own a few of them. I have had the PC jig for about 6 months and have a little experience on it particularly using Bosch router, adapter and bushings.

[BigguyZ]

I have never saw or heard of the 4216. What does it include, the mini-half blind DT template?

Basically. The template does both half blind and through mini dovetails. I don't see myself using 1/4" material for drawers any time soon...

Now that I've accuired just about all I'll need for now, it's time to get the shop set up and get some projects done. First thing is to work on a workbench for the shop. Then maybe a moveable cart. Then bases for my bandsaw, jointer, and scroll saw..... Oh yeah- and a table for the router!

Anyone know where I can find plans for a good RT?

[LarryG]

Anyone know where I can find plans for a good RT?

There's a good one in "Woodworking With The Router" by Bill Hylton. A second edition of this book was recently released in hardcover; you may still be able to find the older, paperback edition (co-authored by Fred Matlack) for less money. Both are excellent, although the hardback is more up to date and has full-color photos.

Anyway, both editions show plans for a table that is essentially similar, as so many tables are, to the Deluxe Router Station design from New Yankee Workshop. The Hylton version improves on the design by moving the router insert out toward the front end of the table, and dispensing with the miter slot (which is NOT needed, although virtually all tables include them).

[BigguyZ]

The Hylton version improves on the design by moving the router insert out toward the front end of the table, and dispensing with the miter slot (which is NOT needed, although virtually all tables include them).

Really? Because I was looking for miter slot track at rockler for the table. Why isn't it needed?

[drumpriest]

You don't often use a miter slot on a router table. Mostly I use mine for featherboards, but I hardly use those, to be honest. I use jointer push blocks most of the time. The new trend for routing the end grain of pieces is to make a sled that references off of the router fence, rather than have it running through the miter slot. The fence doesn't have to be "square" to anything, again because the bit is circular.

[LarryG]

Really? Because I was looking for miter slot track at rockler for the table. Why isn't it needed?

Keith has already covered most of this.

Since the bit is indeed round and the fence does not normally, as Keith mentions, have any "squareness" relationship to the bit, using a miter slot complicates the issue by bringing the squareness issue back into play. A sled that rides along the face of the fence, or the edge of the table (which would be the same concept as a fence, but in another form), is simpler to rig and easier to use. Probably safer, too.

In addition to featherboards, a miter slot can admittedly be useful for things like a box joint jig. But featherboards can be clamped out at the edges of the table, and there are other ways to tackle the box joint operation too.

Another consideration is that cutting the groove for a miter slot weakens the table top, giving moisture a place to enter and increasing the chances the top will warp, because it's no longer a uniform thickness over its entire surface. (The cutout in the middle, for the router insert plate or lift, is okay because it goes all the way through.) For the same reason, the fence should ideally not be attached with tracks set into grooves but either with slots that go all the way through or, better yet, with some sort of clamping or hold-down arrangement out at the table's edges.

Again, I'd highly recommend buying a copy of "Woodworking With The Router." In will open your eyes to a number of things, will teach you answers to questions you didn't know how to ask, and will in general be the best router "accessory" you'll ever buy. I bought my first router 25+ years ago but every time I leaf through this book I continue to pick up things I didn't know, or had forgotten.

[BigguyZ]

Well I've already gone ahead and ordered the book. I'll want it for the RT design, from what I've been told. I think it'll be a good addition to my WW library.

[BigguyZ]

Another consideration is that cutting the groove for a miter slot weakens the table top, giving moisture a place to enter and increasing the chances the top will warp, because it's no longer a uniform thickness over its entire surface. (The cutout in the middle, for the router insert plate or lift, is okay because it goes all the way through.) For the same reason, the fence should ideally not be attached with tracks set into grooves but either with slots that go all the way through or, better yet, with some sort of clamping or hold-down arrangement out at the table's edges.

So the router table in the book doesn't use track to attach the fence?? I bought two of the Rockler kits when they were on sale just for that purpose. If you just cut a slot, how does the bolt not sip freely when you try to tighten it?

What if you used some sort of sealer in the grooves so that moisture couldn't get in? It just seems to me that T-track would ber the easiest solution to attach a fence and still have it be quickly adjustable...