HF DC motor died

[Rich P]

This is the second unit in two years to have the motor go south on me. When I bought it I also got the extended warranty which expired in May of the year (bummer) . If a DC motor is only expected to last two years, would someone let me know. I've been fairly carefull not to start/stop the unit unnecessarily.

I suspect the capacator is fried but am not small motor savy enough to tell for sure.

Rather than replacing the entire unit, I'm looking to just replace the motor with something more reliable, maybe something compressor rated? Near as I can tell, motor should be 3450, 5/8" keyed shaft 2" long, clockwise rotation. Original unit has a threaded hole in the end of the shaft but it does not seem to me it's absolutely required.

Given my shop setup, I'm basically dead in the water without DC, so I need to get this resolved quickly.

Thanks.

[Knottscott]

If the cap is truly the culprit, why not just replace that as opposed to the entire motor? Also, it's not uncommon for these units to have issues with the switch. You might want to find a way to rule out a faulty switch before attempting much else.

[Rich P]

The usual suspects

First thing I did was check the breaker, then the switch. Breaker fine, switch has power in and power out. Didn't check for continuity to common as I assumed power out eliminated the switch.

How would I go about testing the cap and if that's the culprit, any suggestions on a source to procure? I did remove the cap cover and it appears "normal" (whatever that means...). I do have a VOM which I mainly use for continuty testing.

After checking around, appears a "better" motor will cost as much or more than just buying a new unit.

[sweensdv]

I agree with Dustmight. I wouldn't write the motor off yet. A call to a couple of repair shops explainig your problem should get you a rough idea of how much it will cost to replace a switch or capacitor.

[gary]

HF DC switches the hot and neutral. Are you really sure they're both working? I read you made an assumption but was not clear what it was.

[gerti]

Be sure to test both sides of the switch. Given the high failure rate of the switches (mine failed too even though it was always on and I used external switches) and no reports of motor failures there actually is a high chance that it is a switch problem.

[Rich P]

Two sides to the story...

Guys,

Thanks so much for making me go back and check my assumption that if the switch hot side was ok then common was too. I used an inductive voltage tester rather than pull the switch out and test both sides. Common had no continuity when switch is on! Issue resolved I should think.

Rather than attempt to replace the "oem" switch, think I'll take this opportunity to relocate the switch so I don't have to bend down to reach it.

Going to jump on this first thing tomorrow am and will post an update to confirm.

Guess the first rule with HF power is check both sides of the switch?

On the bright side, when I pulled the "Y" off the blower I discovered a thin slice of 2x4 end grain that was probably restricting air flow. I'll do that more often after this.

Rich

[messmaker]

I don't use the stock switch. I just leave it in the on position and plug it into a switched outlet. I ran the switch to just above my tablesaw in the center of the shop.It is very handy and only cost about $10 to do.

[THyman]

Guys,

Going to jump on this first thing tomorrow am and will post an update to confirm.

Rich

Rich,

It would be great if you could post some pictures as well of your final solution along with a discription as I am thinking about getting one of these but knowing my luck the switch will fail the day after the warranty expires.

Todd

[Rich P]

Back in the saddle...

Got the new switch in place this morning and all is well (so far).

All of my shop is mobile as it must roll into 1/2 of a 2 car garage (wife has that strange notion of using it for a car), so the idea of a switch near a tool does not work for my situation. However, bending down to turn the motor on has been a pain for the last two plus years so this new setup is a big improvement for me.

I've include some snaps of the tool in various states of dis-assembly in case anyone wants to see what it looks like inside.

I've also included a shot of the old fried switch. You can clearly see the melted plastic on the outbound common terminal. Not sure how long that had been going on before the failure.

I decided to simplify the wiring and not switch common in the new setup. I did find a GB 20 amp double pole switch but the terminals were way too small for 12 guage wire (go figure) so I went with a 20 amp Levitron "commercial" grade switch instead.

If anybody sees anything wrong, dangerous or has other suggestions I'd gladly entertain them. About 1/2 way thru the job I realised I could have placed a remote controlled switch on the unit (required for me since I plug it in to various outlets depending on the other tools in use). Maybe next time.

FYI, the actual shots have more in them...had to severely crop and reduce quality to meet the site limitations.

Thanks again to all for pointing me in the right direction.

[JR]

I was about to ask where you got your switch, what kind was it, etc. Then I took a look at the pic! Nice job.

My switch fried right in the middle of a project recently. I dove inside the assembly and got it put together so it would work, but it is clearly on borrowed time.

Thanks for the pics.

I may just hardwire it. I'm using an X10 remote control relay, so I don't really need the switch.

JR