Got my Kreg Rocket Jig

[Tom Miller]

This thing just might come in handy!

I've put off getting one for a number of reasons:

1. Doesn't seem like you get much for your $$ (took a good price at Amazon to get me)
2. Joint snobbery (luckily you don't need to qualify for snob status, you can just be one )
3. I hate products that require you to buy their "refills".

I don't think I'll start using this on everything I build, but I envision a lot of shop-grade items going together with pocket holes and glue.

A few questions for the Kreg users:

1. I see Rockler sells pocket hole screws -- are these Kreg brand, or at least reasonable substitutes?
2. The Rocket jig came with only one type of screw. Are they more likely the fine screws? That's what I'd guess, if I had to. I suppose it'll be clear when I go buy more.
3. How many different sizes of screws are there? I know there's coarse and fine, but are there a lot of different sizes and lengths?
4. Should the smaller hole (for the screw shank) exit the wood, or doesn't it need to? I set the drill collar by measurement, but it seems like it'd be easier to set it by putting the bit through the hole such that it stops just short of the stop.
5. Should I read the manual?

Regards,
Tom

[jziegler]

Tom,

Do read the manual. Although I don't have the Rocket, I have their mini jig, and the manual (instruction sheet...) has the answers to some of your questions.

As for the screws from Rockler, they are the Kreg. Woodcraft, Amazon, and sometimes Lowes are also sources of the Kreg branded screws. McFeely's has some that are supposed to be equivalent, but I haven't tried them. The Kreg website has a page (http://kregtool.com/products/ka/screws.php) that lists the various screws that they sell.

Have fun with your jig, and snobbery aside, I think that you'll end up enjoying it. I find it's a great and quick way of doing many things, and have used it extensively in my kitchen.

[drumpriest]

1. Rockler sells Kreg Screws.
2. Those are coarse screws, get the fine for in hardwoods, they hold better.
3...

1" - 1/2" material
1 1/4" 3/4" material
1 1/2" 1" material
2 1/2" 1.5" material and up.

4. I also own the rocket, and mine does not exit, it's not been a problem.
5. Yeah, read the manual, but it's not going to help too much with assembly tips. I find that in harder woods, even though self tapping, the screws can push the other piece away. I face clamp my joint together, then throw a F clamp on it, but not tight, just snug. Then drive the screws home and you'll have a lovely joint. Use a clutched drill, very important, and track your clutch settings that work for different hardnesses of wood. Do a test joint in each material before your project joint.

Also. Make a mark on the front of the jig that is dead center, then mark 7/16" to either side. Now you can use those marks like a dowelling jig for drilling holes in 1 1/2" wide stock. The standard hole spacing of the rocket is for 2" face frame material, if you use it for 1 1/2", you'll likely blow out the sides.

[PALefty]

I find that in harder woods, even though self tapping, the screws can push the other piece away. I face clamp my joint together, then throw a F clamp on it, but not tight, just snug. Then drive the screws home and you'll have a lovely joint.

Use a clutched drill, very important, and track your clutch settings that work for different hardnesses of wood.

There was a nice post a few months ago on this site or another (I believe woodnet) that spoke in detail about how to avoid offset joints w/ kreg (and lots of pics). I can't seem to find it again. Does anybody have it bookmarked?

Is there any guideline on where to set the clutch.. with wood or basically anything? I am always just picking a number.. without any real basis. I undertand it may be different based on what you are drilling.. but I would like to have a better idea of where to start.

The Kreg manuals all appear to reference a battery powered drill. Are electric drills w/ clutch a no-no with Kreg?

[drumpriest]

The disparity between the meaning of clutch settings among manufacturers would probably make any such clutch guideline useless. Any drill with a clutch will probably be just fine.

As to the offset joints, that usually means that you've overdriven the screws, you don't want to drive them past snug.

[mschrank]

The Kreg manuals all appear to reference a battery powered drill. Are electric drills w/ clutch a no-no with Kreg?

I use an electric drill for drilling the holes, and a cordless for driving the screws.

I start out with a fairly light clutch setting (I work mostly with softwoods). After driving a couple of screws, I give 'em a twist with a screwdriver. For me, it's just a lot easier to get a "feel" by hand. I then adjust the clutch based on that.

[Brian G]

Tom,

Menards has the Kreg screws. Look in the same aisle as where the routers and router accessories sit. Their price is about $0.50 to $0.75 less per 100ct. than Rockler. Perhaps the price difference is even greater; I have not bought any recently.

Periodically, Rockler will have a buy-one-get-one-free sale on Kreg screws. That's a good time to stock up.

[Tom Miller]

Thanks for the info, guys! I usually read the manual after a screw-up or two, but this thing seems pretty user-friendly.

Brian, thanks for the Menards tip. My closest Menards (Oakdale) will be closing in July to make way for a Super(?) Menards, or something. The Kreg screws could very well be at close-out prices right now. Or just plain out of stock.

Keith, I'm even more curious about coarse vs. fine -- I would have guessed the screws I had were fine. I tried a grand total of one joint with some scrap baltic birch, and I definitely got the sense that they were starting to strip. Good tip about watching the clutch -- or maybe I'll "take 'em home" by hand, like Mike suggested. Thanks for the confirmation about no "exit hole", too.

For the one joint I did, I clamped both pieces face-down on my workbench, which resulted in a nice, no-offset joint. But I suppose you can't do that in all circumstances.

Regards,
Tom

[John Hunter]

Another source of the Kreg screws is Lowes, I picked up the Kreg pro kit there on clearance recently for $68.75. Just mounted it and will be using it this evening.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I have found that screws are cheapest at Amazon. They are Kreg branded and great value in the 2000 packs. Free shipping, possible discounts. They are cheaper than any source I have found, including McFeelys.
Sizes : There are many, many sizes. I have used 1" to 2.5". There are three main threads fine, coarse and hi/lo. Two head types pan and washer head. Washer head is most common and I have found little use for the pan heads that I have other than they are very common in the 1: length.

According to my highly scientific survey, you can fit a dime between the thread of the coarse with a little slop and it will not come close on the fine thread.

[atgcpaul]

I own the Mini and for the $20 I paid for it, it's priceless. I have become a joint
snob, too, but depending on the project and the speed at which I need
something done, I won't hesitate to reach for the Kreg or my biscuit joiner even
though I'm paying for refills. Although noone's paying me for my work, getting
it done fast is sometimes more important.

I find the Mini works best in corded/cordless drills with fast drilling speeds.
When driving the screws I do use the clutch on my cordless so it rachets
at the tightness I like. Too tight and you have misaligned joints. Although
I don't often do it, clamping down across the joint seems to help prevent
misalignments.

The last time I bought screws at Rockler, they were buy one get one free. My
stash should last me a while.

Paul

[drumpriest]

Tom, I was pretty sure that they were coarse screws that came with the jig, but I am mistaken, they are actually a little different than my Kreg fine ones from my 100 packs, but they are closer to the fine than the coarse. Perhaps some form of middle ground that they use to ship with the jig.

My apologies.

[Brian G]

Tom,

The link above gives a good listing of the assortment of screws.

Here's a direct link to a pdf with a bunch of handy information about specificsKreg Screw Chart

Burnsville is getting a new Super-Duper-Ginormous Menards. Didja' ever notice that the beginning of the Menards TV ads shows just the "nards" part of the name and then pans out to the full name?

. . . plumbing and 'lectrical appliances, too. . . .

[Wood_workur]

just a note on fine vs coarse, coarse is used in ply, pine, blasa, poplar, and softer hardwoods, not just softwoods. Coarse is used in har hardwoods, lioke oak, maple, ipe, ect, and in yew, which is actually considered a softwood. (hardwood v. soft wood is based on decidous vs conferous.) The guys at rockler told me that, and the people at my store are generally very knoledgable.

[Tom Miller]

. . . plumbing and 'lectrical appliances, too. . . .

Luckily that's not a tune that sticks in a guy's head for the rest of the day.

Keith, I bet you're right that they included a one-size-fits-all screw. The suspense will be over once I get some time to pick up some more.

Thanks again for all info, guys!

...always, the savings comes right back to you....

Dang it, Brian!

Regards,
Tom
(Gotta go Tivo a 'nards commercial.)