Straight edge

[bigsteel15]

I am wondering what people use for 96" straight edge.
I have this one and don't like it.

http://www.johnsonlevel.com/edges_j4900.html

It joins in the middle and that joint flexes whenever you run a tool along it.
I have always clamped a piece of wood behind it to hold the center on the mark. For $30 I guess I shouldn't complain.

I really got peeved yesterday when I noticed that one of my full length dados is 1/8" off in the middle area. I guess I didn't clamp the wood tight enough. Now I have to re-run the router along it. Good thing it's just a torsion box.

Anyways, enough rambling.
I'm looking for suggestions.
Lee Valley has a really sturdy looking unit but holy crap it's expensive.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...240,45313&ap=1

[wreckwriter]

can't help for a router but

I have the same one but I use mine with a circular saw rather than a router. I agree, its pretty much garbage for a long cut. I cut a nice bow into a $50 wooden screen door with mine, was not pleased. I'm back to a chalk line for long cuts with more than 24" on the side. For 24" or less I use this thing: http://www.choiceproductsinc.com/ripmaster.html

[Tom Miller]

I use an 8' melamine-covered shelf board, 10-12" wide, 5/8" thick, from the DIY shelving section of HD. I also have a 6' version.

I defy anyone to come up with a cheaper solution.

Regards,
Tom

[bigsteel15]

I use an 8' melamine-covered shelf board, 10-12" wide, 5/8" thick, from the DIY shelving section of HD. I also have a 6' version.

I defy anyone to come up with a cheaper solution.

Regards,
Tom

I never thought of actually using that. I guess it IS perfectly straight and easy to slide along on the finished side.
Thanks Tom.

[bigsteel15]

I have the same one but I use mine with a circular saw rather than a router. I agree, its pretty much garbage for a long cut. I cut a nice bow into a $50 wooden screen door with mine, was not pleased. I'm back to a chalk line for long cuts with more than 24" on the side. For 24" or less I use this thing: http://www.choiceproductsinc.com/ripmaster.html

I also have that one for my CS, except it says Mastercraft on it (CDN Tire special). Works well for the saw.

[Tequila]

I got one of these a few years ago on a huge deal at Amazon. It's been great for cutting sheet goods, and I've used it more than a couple times to router long dado grooves in plywood.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

[tmaceroli]

I bought an aluminum cutting guide at HD for about $20. It's two pieces, but not the one in your picture. It has a fairly large "connector" between the two halves. It fits snugly, holds the pieces together in a straight line, and it seems to work just fine. I always use it for cutting down sheet goods to manageable sizes, and it works quite well.

The nice thing about it being in two pieces is that you can also use it for crosscutting a sheet without having 5 feet of overhang. Also, I think the melamine idea is a good one. Either Popular Woodworking or Shop Notes had the plans for a cutting jig in an article about a year ago. When I get home I will look for it and post the magazine and issue, if I can find it.

Update: Sorry, but I couldn't locate the article. The basic idea tho, was a melamine-covered board with some other bells and whistles to help with alignment and clamping to the workpiece.

[pirinst]

I've used the cheapo one for cutting and also for

wall and ceiling rafter/joist linear flatness checks. It does indeed flex in the long cuts. A piece of wood behind it will help reduce side flex. Since the cheapos are less than $20, I've cut some down to shorter pieces to check short wall flatness during reconstruction instead of strings.

I've since purchased the Emerson version which was almost $100 dollars. Single piece very strong. Also bought the 52 inch version and a couple of the shorter ones. Also bought the saw plate which is basically a hdpe square with an add on piece that allows it to slide parallel to the straight edge guides. A dedicated saw is mounted to the piece and all wobble is eliminated allowing straight full sheet cuts. Cheap way of full sheet cuts as opposed to buying a plywood saw for over $1100. Make sure the sheet is supported the full length of the cut underneath or it will bow and change the line.

I've seen about three or four versions of the single solid aluminum straight edge and they range from $100 on up.

I've made a couple of earlier posts which stated my real problem with both circular saws was loose roll pins and rivets at the hinge joints which allowed the saw to wander at plywood cutting height. The Straight edges did not fix that problem, but when I replaced all hinge joints with bolts and nuts, the saws would perform straight cuts at plywood depth.

[DonHo]

I use a sawboard for cutting sheet goods. I have a 4' and an 8' one. I've heard of using an 8' metal stud as a straight edge. I haven't actually checked to see how straight they are but you'd think they'd be straight and they're cheap at Lowes or HD, under $3 I think.
DonHo

[dlminehart]

My problem with the 8' straight edges from melamine shelving is that they're only 8' long, same length as what I'm usually cutting. I like to have an extra few inches at each end to keep the cut straight.