Block plane....what kind to get?

[lago]

I have installed some doors and need to take off about 1/16". One door barely closes but it hasn't been painted yet.

All I have is a belt sander and orbital sander. Really hate to try either one of those and wind up with low spots on the edge.

I would appreciate some recommendations for a plane as I have none at this time.

TIA

Ken

[LarryG]

Some of the hand plane fanatics will be along directly to tell you what a slippery-slope question this is.

I'll go ahead and tell you one of the things they'll mention: don't waste your money on the current Stanley or Buck Bros. or similar brands at HD/Lowe's/etc.

What's your budget? If you want to make a lifetime investment in a quality tool, you cannot go wrong with any of these four:

Veritas Apron Plane with A2 blade, $79 from Lee Valley

Lie-Nielsen Low Angle Block Plane, about $95 from a variety of sources.

Veritas Low-Angle Block Blane, $109 from Lee Valley.

Lie-Nielsen Low Angle Adjustable Mouth Block Plane, about $150 from a variety of sources.

I've listed those in ascending order of price. The last two have adjustable mouths, which is why they cost more. I own the last one and don't regret a penny of the ~$128 I spent when the plane was on sale at Woodcraft.

Of the above, the best value is probably the LV Low Angle for $109. Some magazine reviews rate it equal to or better than the similar and more expensive L-N. I just had my heart set on an L-N, so I splurged.

If all of these are more than you'd care to spend, there are cheaper alternatives in the used market (older Stanleys, Millers Falls, etc) but I'll leave that to those hand plane fanatics since they know a lot more about them than I do.

EDIT: I should perhaps mention that I use the word "fanatic" in the most loving and respectful way, but some of those guys are just totally out of control ... and they know it.

[LJR]

lago, it's impossible to do that job with just one plane. Can't be done. You've got to have a good number 4 (general purpose smoother) a good number 5 (jack plane) a good block plane and that's just a start. Actually you'll probably use your block plane the most of any of them. I buy used. I've got an old Miller Falls block plane with a Hock blade in it, don't see how anything new could beat it. I've got an old Stanley #4 with a Hock blade in it, don't see how anything new could beat it. I've got an old Stanley #5 with the original blade in it, that thing still amazes me when I grab it. And the list goes on, but that'll get you started. I've bought at flea markets, ebay, and so on. Found junk at every one of them. Now, I'll buy from Walt at Brass City Toolworks and get treated great and get great used tools.

[Holbren]

I had to shave down a door recently and just took it out to the garage and fired up the jointer. A few passes later I was good to go. Good thing for my back it was a cheap hollow door.

[wardprobst]

I've got the Lee Valley apron plane with the standard blade @ $69 and I find it a great little plane. I've got some used planes but be prepared to spend some time learning to tune a plane especially if you go used. The LV is pretty good out of the box, I have almost all the planes they make and they are really good values in the hand plane market.
Best,
Dale

[tmaceroli]

I replaced all the doors in my house a few years back, including double closet doors. I think there were over 25. A block plane is not the tool for that job. I would go for something with a fairly long sole, and a full hand grip. I bought a hand-held power planer, which worked well. For one door, I would buy a hand plane, but definitely not a block plane. With a block plane, you're going to get a very wavy cut that will show up immediately when you hang the door.

Also, the door should be planed at a slight angle from inside edge to outside edge. Like something about 6-10 degrees. If you plane it exactly flat, you are going to need to take more off the door. As the leading edge of the door passes the jamb, it is slightly at an agle, and the edge will be closer to the jamb at that point then it will be when the door is fully closed. In order to get it to pass, you willl have to shave more off the door, and then when fully closed, the gap between the door and the jamb will be larger, and more noticeable. If you plane the door at a slight angle, it will enable the edge to pass the jamb, but when fully colsed, there will be a much smaller gap between the door and the jamb.