Best honing stones?

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  • ironhat
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2004
    • 2553
    • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
    • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

    #1

    Best honing stones?

    Ever since I received the DeWalt chisels with my 618-3B deal last year I've been in hog heaven. For the first time in my life I have *real* chisels with a razor sharp edge. I can't believe what I've been missing while using my old Stanly carpenter's chisels. Anyway, I want to keep the fine edge on these but allow a pro to do the real sharpening. What stones are appropriate without being the holy grail of sharpening stones. The reason I say that is that I don't have it in me to be as good as such a stone - really.
    TIA,
    Chiz
    Blessings,
    Chiz
  • gmack5
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 1973
    • Quapaw, Oklahoma, USA.
    • Ryobi BT3000SX & BT3100

    #2
    An Alternative for you.......

    Check out the "Scary Sharp" method.
    You can find it by going to "Google" and entering "Scary Sharp", then read the write-up by the guy that came up with the idea.
    Stop thinking why you can't and Start thinking how you CAN!
    Remember, SUCCESS comes in CANS!
    George

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    • Warren
      Established Member
      • Jan 2003
      • 441
      • Anchorage, Ak
      • BT3000

      #3
      I keep two stones in my shop. One, a diamond 8 inch stone is 600x/1200x. The other is a water stone, 1000x/8000x. The 8000x waterstone is very useful for keeping the edge on irons and chisels. Unless they get abused very little actual sharpening is required, I just keep them well dressed. All the irons have a secondary bevel, not a requirement but I feel this requires less honing to keep a fine edge.

      Some like the "scary sharp" and others use just stones. I just like the tools to be sharp enough to do their work well.
      A man without a shillelagh, is a man without an expidient.

      Comment

      • leehljp
        The Full Monte
        • Dec 2002
        • 8672
        • Tunica, MS
        • BT3000/3100

        #4
        I posted a note on a pen turning forum this morning about my sharpening methods.

        A word of advice: Do not fall into the trap that one size fits all - or one method is all that you need. It might work for some that are occasional users, but if several methods were explored and used it would be like going from a single speed bicycle to a 3 or 10 speed. Different sharpening methodology is like gears on a transmission for most people - if they would try them.


        1. Bench Grinder, belt sander, course water or oil stones: to get the chisels in shape.

        2. High quality bench grinder and very fine belt sanders:
        A. get chisels in shape and
        B. Touch up for slightly dull chisels
        C. Bring chisels up to "real sharp" status.

        3. Fine Water stones, oil stones and motorized round waterstones: Bringing sharpened chisels up to very sharp status.

        4. Micro sheet sandpaper and honing compound on wood block:
        A. Mirror polish edges
        B. Touch ups in the middle of lathe turning or mortising use.

        USING two or three different methods will benefit the user and the chisels.

        Get the chisels in shape (flattening the backs, get the correct angles)
        Bring it up to SHARP.
        Keep it sharp during use.

        No one method does all three easily. Any one method works well for two stages but not conveniently for all three.

        BELOW:
        I am posting a picture of a set of chisels that a Japanese friend gave me along with a "sharpening kit". The sharpening kit is nothing more than a flat piece of softwood with some honing compound. That is good for bring the "edge" back to the blade during use. It is not good for defining the shape or getting a burr out. I usually make a few cuts, take a couple of swipes on the board, make some more cuts and then repeat the swipes.


        Hank Lee

        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

        Comment

        • scorrpio
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 1566
          • Wayne, NJ, USA.

          #5
          For my chisels and plane irons rough grinds, I use a bench grinder. I need it rarely cause I am fairly careful with them and try to avoid nicks.

          I got a sharpening set from Hartville tools - includes lapping kit (plate and a various grit pastes) for flat side, a 1000/6000 japanese waterstone and a holder to keep a constant angle.

          If you keep a tool in shape, a couple passes on the 6000 grit side is generally all you normally need.

          Comment

          • ironhat
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2004
            • 2553
            • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
            • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

            #6
            Thanks, gents. That's what I was looking for. I don't abuse these tools either and, for the most part, only did carpentry in the past so my expectations were different. The first time I used one of these chisels I chuckled out loud at the fine control I had with such a sharp edge. Now, I'm spoiled. One son-in-law asked if he could borrow a chisel and I dug out one of the old Stanly carpentry chisels. He ased about the others and I laughed and told him that he had to start where I did.
            Later,
            Chiz
            Blessings,
            Chiz

            Comment

            • Tom Miller
              Veteran Member
              • Mar 2003
              • 2507
              • Twin Cities, MN
              • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

              #7
              Originally posted by ironhat
              One son-in-law asked if he could borrow a chisel and I dug out one of the old Stanly carpentry chisels.
              Another good reason to have a set of Stanley chisels on hand!

              I always say, the first step to taking care of a good set of chisels, is to buy a cheap set of chisels. I bet I use my Buck Bros. chisels more than the "good" ones (which are only Marples, BTW).

              For touch-up sharpening, I use scary sharp. I glue 4 full sheets of abrasive to an appropriately-sized piece of mdf; two sheets per side.

              Regards,
              Tom

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