Hitachi M12V Router Plate

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  • Workman
    Forum Newbie
    • Feb 2006
    • 70

    Hitachi M12V Router Plate

    What Router plate/table set up are y'all using with the Hitachi M12V? I have just ordered the router through Amazon and would appreciate your input.
  • jackellis
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2003
    • 2638
    • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
    • BT3100

    #2
    I also have a M12V on order and am planning to install it in the BT3's router accessory table using this pattern for a plate made out of 3/8" birch plywood.

    https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...plate-template

    Comment

    • just4funsies
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 843
      • Florida.
      • BT3000

      #3
      I use the Woodpecker's PlungeLift Made for the M12V. Pure and simple, it's THE BOMB...
      ...eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!

      Comment

      • vaking
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2005
        • 1428
        • Montclair, NJ, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3100-1

        #4
        I have M12V mounted in accesory table. Drilled holes in Ryobi router plate - easy task. I have springs removed from that router - it never leaves the table.
        Alex V

        Comment

        • TB Roye
          Veteran Member
          • Jan 2004
          • 2969
          • Sacramento, CA, USA.
          • BT3100

          #5
          I have my M12V mounted to a Roclkler table top, with 1/4" alumn. plate and router razor. Works fine. I too have the springs removed as it has never been used freehand. I first had it mounted to the BT3 aux. table.

          Tom

          Comment

          • Pappy
            The Full Monte
            • Dec 2002
            • 10453
            • San Marcos, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 (x2)

            #6
            I also have mine in a custom table on a Woodpecker's Plunge Lift.
            Don, aka Pappy,

            Wise men talk because they have something to say,
            Fools because they have to say something.
            Plato

            Comment

            • Workman
              Forum Newbie
              • Feb 2006
              • 70

              #7
              Thanks for the help. It is interesting that the three ways mentioned being used (so far) - the aux table, the Woodpecker plunge lift, and Rockler's aluminum plate - were the primary choices I was trying to narrow down. All appear to work! I had eliminated a phenolic plate based on prior flexing problems with a smaller Porter Cable router (resulting in misalignment when using Freud locking joint bits). I had a hard time figuring this one out. To use the large panel raising bits, the aux table would be eliminated as it does not have clearance. I wonder how much router modification, (or alternatively, plate modification) if any, do the plunge lift or Rockler systems require? It looks like both have special plates for the M12V, but this doesn't always mean no mods required. Again, thanks for your help.

              Comment

              • Holbren
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2004
                • 705
                • Heathrow, FL.

                #8
                Originally posted by just4funsies
                I use the Woodpecker's PlungeLift Made for the M12V. Pure and simple, it's THE BOMB...
                Same here. Had to take the springs out though.

                At the I only paid $99 which wasn't much more than the regular aluminum plate. I think they've gone up since then.
                Brian
                Holbren, Whiteside, LRH, Ridge, Tenryu, Norton
                "BT310" coupon code = 10% for forum members
                www.holbren.com

                Comment

                • Wood_workur
                  Veteran Member
                  • Aug 2005
                  • 1914
                  • Ohio
                  • Ryobi bt3100-1

                  #9
                  If it is only going to be used in a router table, skip the plate, and get the rout raizer from www.somerfeldtools.com I saw them at a woodworking show, and they said skip the plate for the Hitachi M12V because it is only there to allow you to remove the router to make bit and height changes, but if you can do that from abover the table, you don't need a plate.
                  Alex

                  Comment

                  • just4funsies
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2005
                    • 843
                    • Florida.
                    • BT3000

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Holbren
                    Same here. Had to take the springs out though.

                    At the I only paid $99 which wasn't much more than the regular aluminum plate. I think they've gone up since then.
                    Oh, yeah. They have. I think I paid a buck and a half for mine. Still very much worth it.

                    As to the question about modifications necessary to the router itself, the removal of the plunge springs is a case-by-case thing. The instructions say not to remove them, but some people have to, in order to get an easier crank going. I left mine in. Also, there are two large "tabs" on the M12V base plate casting, which make bit changing difficult. Some people take a Dremel and cut them off, as they serve no purpose in a table installation. I decided to use a chuck extension for mine, which allows above-table bit changes, but does require a lot of cranking.
                    ...eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!

                    Comment

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