What Router plate/table set up are y'all using with the Hitachi M12V? I have just ordered the router through Amazon and would appreciate your input.
Hitachi M12V Router Plate
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I also have a M12V on order and am planning to install it in the BT3's router accessory table using this pattern for a plate made out of 3/8" birch plywood.
https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...plate-template -
I use the Woodpecker's PlungeLift Made for the M12V. Pure and simple, it's THE BOMB......eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!Comment
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I have my M12V mounted to a Roclkler table top, with 1/4" alumn. plate and router razor. Works fine. I too have the springs removed as it has never been used freehand. I first had it mounted to the BT3 aux. table.
TomComment
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Thanks for the help. It is interesting that the three ways mentioned being used (so far) - the aux table, the Woodpecker plunge lift, and Rockler's aluminum plate - were the primary choices I was trying to narrow down. All appear to work! I had eliminated a phenolic plate based on prior flexing problems with a smaller Porter Cable router (resulting in misalignment when using Freud locking joint bits). I had a hard time figuring this one out. To use the large panel raising bits, the aux table would be eliminated as it does not have clearance. I wonder how much router modification, (or alternatively, plate modification) if any, do the plunge lift or Rockler systems require? It looks like both have special plates for the M12V, but this doesn't always mean no mods required. Again, thanks for your help.Comment
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Originally posted by just4funsiesI use the Woodpecker's PlungeLift Made for the M12V. Pure and simple, it's THE BOMB...
At the I only paid $99 which wasn't much more than the regular aluminum plate. I think they've gone up since then.Brian
Holbren, Whiteside, LRH, Ridge, Tenryu, Norton
"BT310" coupon code = 10% for forum members
www.holbren.comComment
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If it is only going to be used in a router table, skip the plate, and get the rout raizer from www.somerfeldtools.com I saw them at a woodworking show, and they said skip the plate for the Hitachi M12V because it is only there to allow you to remove the router to make bit and height changes, but if you can do that from abover the table, you don't need a plate.AlexComment
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Originally posted by HolbrenSame here. Had to take the springs out though.
At the I only paid $99 which wasn't much more than the regular aluminum plate. I think they've gone up since then.
As to the question about modifications necessary to the router itself, the removal of the plunge springs is a case-by-case thing. The instructions say not to remove them, but some people have to, in order to get an easier crank going. I left mine in. Also, there are two large "tabs" on the M12V base plate casting, which make bit changing difficult. Some people take a Dremel and cut them off, as they serve no purpose in a table installation. I decided to use a chuck extension for mine, which allows above-table bit changes, but does require a lot of cranking....eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!Comment
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