Working on a new router table...

[just4funsies]

Does anybody know if there is a standard setback distance from the bit center for the T-track that gets milled into the horizontal table top for use with featherboards, jigs, etc. Also, not sure if I should use a miter slot track or just a mini T-track for this track. Featherboards can be mounted to either, and I don't know if I'd ever use a miter gauge on the table, and that big 3/4" track takes up a lotta surface, and uses a Grand Canyon of a dado. Thoughts?

[Black wallnut]

Some will say that t-slots are not a good idea! I'm not one of those.

From expierence I say consider how wide your workpeices that you'll mostly be needing a flat feather board for; then place it far enough away to place the t-botls about center in the slots of your feather boards.

In my table I placed one t-track along one edge of the router's mounting plate and it has proved to be far too close for most tasks.

[RodKirby]

I'm a no t-slot guy

Never missed them!

[gmack5]

I'm a no t-slot guy
Never missed them!

Besides it weakens your Table Top by reducing the thickness when you install the Dado for the T-Track.

You can just as well attach your Feather Boards to the edge of your Table with a Clamp.

[RayintheUK]

Does anybody know if there is a standard setback distance from the bit center for the T-track that gets milled into the horizontal table top for use with featherboards, jigs, etc. Also, not sure if I should use a miter slot track or just a mini T-track for this track. Featherboards can be mounted to either, and I don't know if I'd ever use a miter gauge on the table, and that big 3/4" track takes up a lotta surface, and uses a Grand Canyon of a dado. Thoughts?

I make a load of rail and stile doors using a dedicated bit set and I'd be lost without my miter track for the coping joint in the ends of the rails. Mine is set so that the right-hand side of the miter gauge clears the largest insert ring by about 3/4" and I've not had any problems with this set-up.

Regarding the dado for the (full-size) track, I re-inforced the table beneath this area by laminating a 4" strip of 3/4" ply to the underside. I've done this in both my tables - which are also flip-up benches - and they have served me well for a number of years. HTH

Ray.

[JimD]

I have miter gauge slots for both my vertical and my horizontal router setup on my router table (the vertical setup is on the back of the router table so it gets it's own slot). I have used both slots but would omit the slot for the horizontal (normal) router table if I was doing it again, The problem I have had is the fence must be parallel to the miter gauge slot and that is not how my fence normally is. I use a combination square to adjust the fence if I am going to use a miter gauge. I determined the location of the slot by putting it as close as I could while keeping my miter gauge out of the bit.

What works better for me on a horizontal router is a sled. Mine now has a slider that goes in the t-slot at the top of the fence. This helps me stay tight to the fence.

Jim

[onedash]

I make a load of rail and stile doors using a dedicated bit set and I'd be lost without my miter track for the coping joint in the ends of the rails. Mine is set so that the right-hand side of the miter gauge clears the largest insert ring by about 3/4" and I've not had any problems with this set-up.

Regarding the dado for the (full-size) track, I re-inforced the table beneath this area by laminating a 4" strip of 3/4" ply to the underside. I've done this in both my tables - which are also flip-up benches - and they have served me well for a number of years. HTH

Ray.

Ray
I tried using the miter slot once. It was a pain to align the fence to the bit and keep it parallel to the miter slot. That was on my old craftsman but when I got my new JessEm I built a sled with a clamp and its so easy.
Then the fence can be as cockeyed as it wants as long as its flush with the bit. Made 18 rails today and 9 stiles.

I just finished making stiles thats why the feather board is still there. I don't use it (or need it) for rails.

[BasementDweller]

Ray
I tried using the miter slot once. It was a pain to align the fence to the bit and keep it parallel to the miter slot. That was on my old craftsman but when I got my new JessEm I built a sled with a clamp and its so easy.
Then the fence can be as cockeyed as it wants as long as its flush with the bit. Made 18 rails today and 9 stiles.

I just finished making stiles thats why the feather board is still there. I don't use it (or need it) for rails.

Very cool. So all you have to do is figure out how much higer you need to raise the bit due to the sled correct? I have a hard time with the narrow end when making my stiles (or is it rails?) and I think this is a great solution.

[onedash]

You can use the sled to adjust your bit after the first time because the profile is cut into the sled. It also prevents tear out.
The clamp was about $12. The rest was leftovers.
Just gotta make sure the fence is 90 degrees to the Edge of the sled. I just used masonite and glued a piece of wood to it but you could use plywood or plastic for the base.

[lcm1947]

I must be missing something. So the base of the sled gets ate up each time? That can't be. Is it away from the fence and the material sticks closer to the bit thereby the sled actually doesn't contact the bit?

[Brian G]

Mac,

The base of the sled (which appears to be the brown hardboard in onedash's photo) wouldn't come in contact with the bit. The bit would be set so that the cutter is above the base. The hardboard base rides along the fence.

The profile gets cut into the sled "fence" (i.e., the piece that the hold-down clamp is fastened to in onedash's photo).

"when making my stiles (or is it rails?)"

Rails run; stiles stand.

[lcm1947]

So you have to replace the fence each time for different types of cuts? and how do you secure the fence to the sled, clue?