Source for straight router bit sets?

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I would like a more complete set of straight bits for my router table. Right now I have the 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", and that is about it. At the very least I would like some undersized plywood bits. I would also like something to cut 5/8". And maybe some oversized bits, in case I'm working with something laminated, too.

Woodline has this:
http://www.woodline.com/scripts/prod...?idproduct=591

And I was thinking of filling-in some additional straight bits that they sell separately that aren't included. They have a 20/64, 24/64, 28/64, and 46/64 (I've converted everything to 64's to make it a little easier for me to keep track of). I realize I may have little use for some of these bits, but they are pretty inexpensive ($5 to $7) and I'd certainly have to pay quite a bit more to get them individually if the need arrises.

I also noticed MLCS has a 13/64 and 31/64 that I may get, too. Again, they are inexpensive.

My questions:

(1) Is there another source that has assembled a large set of straight bits that may allow me to source them as a single set and save even more money, get higher quality, or a more complete set with a nice case or something?

(2) Are there any other sources or sizes I should consider?

(3) Is there anything I have overlooked?

BTW, I have a nice dado head for my table saw. But sometimes I prefer to use the router table for a dado, and sometimes I have to use the router hand-held because the piece is too big.

Thanks!
Phil

[RmeDad]

Great supplier!

Brian is a forum member and a GREAT supplier of bits, etc. Go here to see his wares: http://holbren.com/home.php

BIG SALE GOING ON RIGHT NOW!

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Brian is a forum member and a GREAT supplier of bits, etc. Go here to see his wares: http://holbren.com/home.php

BIG SALE GOING ON RIGHT NOW!

I've looked at his page but unfortunately he doesn't have quite as complete a selection of straight bits as Woodline.

[Tom Hintz]

Also, give Infinity Tools a look. they also have very good bits, good prices and excellent customer service.
www.infinitytools.com

[LarryG]

At the very least I would like some undersized plywood bits.

Have you bought enough plywood from your usual sources to know, for a fact, that the thicknesses will be consistent? Because if it's not, a set of undersized plywood bits may not do you much good. The plywood I get here varies widely in thickness; I generally have to cook up a new dado shim recipe for each and every project. (I once bought a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" cabinet-grade birch at HD, realized it was not quite enough, so I bought an additional 2x4 piece of what I thought was the same plywood. Ah, no. And I just about drove myself crazy trying to keep track of which component needed to be cut with which dado setup.)

Point is, if an undersized bit matches the plywood you are able to buy, great, but I wouldn't count on that happening.

A general comment that may or may not help: I understand your desire to have a good assortment of bits on hand, so you'll be covered for any need that may arise. But router bits are consumables; they wear out astonishingly fast and will need to be replaced regularly if you want to do your best work. This means that a router bit collection is always going to be a moving target. With mechanics tools, you make sure you have a socket of each size and as long as you don't lose one, you're all set. But with router bits, there's always going to be some ebb and flow. There will be times when you'll have more than one of the same size, and there'll be times when you wear out one of a given size and may not get around to replacing it until you actually need that size again.

Also, remember that most router cuts are made using incremental passes. By moving the fence on your table as part of this process, you can make a given size bit do double-duty. For example, chuck up a 1/4" bit, make a pass, move the fence 3/16", and you effectively have a 7/16" bit.

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Also, remember that most router cuts are made using incremental passes. By moving the fence on your table as part of this process, you can make a given size bit do double-duty. For example, chuck up a 1/4" bit, make a pass, move the fence 3/16", and you effectively have a 7/16" bit.

All good points, Larry. Thank you. But how tricky is it moving the fence 3/16" of an inch for the 2nd pass when making several dado cuts in the middle of a board? Any good tricks for decent accuracy? Especially when the 2nd pass has to be more like 3/32 or even 3/64? I can imagine ending up with a lot of variance between the first dado and the last without some way of doing this.

I have measured lots of different sheet goods over the last few days. Because of the range of what I'm talking (15 bits), I think can cover almost all of them to within 1/64. I will certainly be careful when buying materials. Maybe more so than I've been in the past.

Many years ago I popped for a large brad-point drill bit set that was U.S.-made and came in 1/64" increments. I paid once and cried once, but it has been one of the best investments I've made. I just kinda thought I'd match that success with my giant router bit set.

Thanks,
Phil

[vaking]

Several dado cuts in the middle of the board are better done either with dado on the table saw or with hand-held router and dado jig. There are many versions of this jig published in different magazines. The good ones are actually using a piece of the material for which you are cutting a dado as a template for width of the dado. This goes back to the statement that in the workshop the less you measure (in inches) the better you are. Transferring dimensions from the template is much more precise.

[Bollox]

Brian is a forum member and a GREAT supplier of bits, etc. Go here to see his wares: http://holbren.com/home.php

BIG SALE GOING ON RIGHT NOW!

Brian has a 6pc, 1/2" shank set on sale now for about $15. I recieved mine Tuesday, havent used them yet but they look fine, and that price is ridiculous!

[Tom Hintz]

Phil,
See the link below for our review of the Accurate Guide for routers that offers another alternative for making dados. what is nice about this tool is that it dows not care about wood thickness, or the length of the dado. If you can clamp a fence for it to follow, it cuts perfect sized dados with a single bit.
I was skeptical of this device initially but after testing it, I now have a router set up with and dedicated to the Accurate Guide.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews...eguidervu.html

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Okay, I think I've figured out a way to do this with my router table with two passes while maintaining accuracy. I've ordered some more parts from the t-nuts site. Hopefully it will work.

Tom, I'll look into the Accurate Guide for hand-held use. Thanks!

-Phil

[LarryG]

But how tricky is it moving the fence 3/16" of an inch for the 2nd pass when making several dado cuts in the middle of a board? Any good tricks for decent accuracy?

Short answer is that it's not as tricky as you might think. As Alex says, you devise means by which to do your setup that involve as few actual measurements as possible.

Somewhat longer, yet still incomplete, answer is that exactly how you go about it will vary depending on what you're trying to accomplish, the size of the workpiece, how much repetition is involved, etc. But it basically comes down to trial and error, via test cuts. Make your initial setup, and run a piece of scrap through as a test. Flip it end-for-end or turn it over and run it again, so you have two tests on the same piece of scrap. And then maybe grab a second piece of scrap and do it again, so you end up with four test cuts. Set these aside while you make your first passes on your actual workpieces. With those done, make your best attempt at moving the fence the correct amount, grab one of your samples, run it through a small amount (say, 1") and then back it out and do a test-fit to see if you're close. Adjust as necessary and try again. Repeat until you're able to run one of the scrap pieces thru all the way and do one last trial fit to ensure that you're spot on. Sounds like a lot of work but it almost takes longer to describe it than do it.

Another way to go about it is to place a spacer of the appropriate thickness between the workpiece and the fence for the first pass and remove it for the second. The obvious problem here is coming up with a spacer of the correct thickness (desired width of groove less diameter of bit being used), so this approach is usually only employed when you know you'll be making this type of cut again in future and the work required to make the spacer is worthwhile. IOW, you make the spacer and then mark it to identify it and carefully store it away for the next time you need it.

Bob Rosendahl, the father of the father-son duo on "The Router Workshop," sets his fence and then makes his final adjustment using what he calls, with tongue firmly in cheek, his "fine adjusting tool": a hammer. As I said, it's not really as difficult as you might think.

[scorrpio]

See latest issue of ShopNotes, page 9 - they describe a jig for precisely routing dadoes of needed width. That jig is also described in one of the threads on 'getting started' - something like 'is it possible to cut dadoes...' etc.
The ShopNotes jig is fairly primitive - a pair of hardboards with fence along which to run your router. You clamp one along one edge of projected dado, the use the stock that will go into the dado as a spacer for clamping the other part. For easy repeatability, the two pieces can be connected with a pair of rails.

[Thom2]

Another way to go about it is to place a spacer of the appropriate thickness between the workpiece and the fence for the first pass and remove it for the second. The obvious problem here is coming up with a spacer of the correct thickness (desired width of groove less diameter of bit being used), so this approach is usually only employed when you know you'll be making this type of cut again in future and the work required to make the spacer is worthwhile. IOW, you make the spacer and then mark it to identify it and carefully store it away for the next time you need it.

IIRC, there's another technique that uses a similiar arrangement, but with 2 pieces of scrap ..... a piece of scrap the thickness of the dado is placed between the fence and workpiece for the first pass, then for the second pass, the piece of scrap is replaced with a piece the same size as the bit. I can't find the article and I'm going strictly from memory here, I'll have to make some test cuts to insure this works.

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The method I'm working on for the table involves what is essentially a micro-adjust jig, where the threaded rod serves as a spacer and is easily removed and replaced. So this would be the technique for cutting 3/4" plywood (which let us say is 1/32" undersized).

(1) Start with a 1/2" bit. Make my first pass with edge aligned where I want it.

(2) Subtract .5 (width of bit) from .71875 (thickness of plywood). That gives me .21875". I adjust the threaded rod to extend .21875 from the body of my micro-adjust jig and slide it up for the fence (I use the table saw fence). Lock my micro-adjust jig to the rail.

(3) Remove threaded rod, unlock fence, slide fence to jig, lock fence.

(4) Make second pass in workpiece. I'll have exactly .71875" dado.

Obviously I have left no room for glue or varied thickness of material. But I tried this this morning with some scraps and clamps and my little dial caliper said I was spot on. I tried it several times and each time it came right in there.

Now I just need a way to easily remove/replace the threaded rod without changing its settings. I'm working on that.

Thanks,
Phil

[Thom2]

accurate enough???

IIRC, there's another technique that uses a similiar arrangement, but with 2 pieces of scrap ..... a piece of scrap the thickness of the dado is placed between the fence and workpiece for the first pass, then for the second pass, the piece of scrap is replaced with a piece the same size as the bit. I can't find the article and I'm going strictly from memory here, I'll have to make some test cuts to insure this works.

I made some test cuts using this technique. Setup is fast AND simple, (once you find a piece of stock the exact size of the bit you're using ) just the way I like it!!!



"3/8" baltic birch (actually measures .350 or something) and a hunk of 1 1/4"ish scrap I had laying around. The smaller dado was made with a 1/4" upcut spiral and the larger with an MLCS 3/4" straight bit. This shot was taken straight off the router table, dry fit with absolutely no prep. There is a very slight ridge in the bottom of the dado but I have to attribute that to the fact that I'm using the accessory table as a router table. I'd like to see the results with a better table setup than mine.

step 1: clamp a piece of the shelf stock to the fence and measure to the bit
step 2: make the first pass
step 3: replace the shelf stock with a piece of stock the exact size of the bit you're using
step 4: make the second pass
step 5: test fit

This setup does indeed make TIGHT dados, you may want to add a sheet of paper behind the shelf stock on the first pass. Other than that ... it's just that simple to use a handful of bits to produce any size dado or rabbet that you'll need.

HTH