Trouble with the PC4212

[dlerwick]

I had about two hours of frustration tonight trying to get some decent dovetails cut. No matter what adjustment I make I can't get them to slide together. The only way they go together is with a lot of work with my mallet. That, of course, splits out the edges. They are just too tight. I have adjusted the router depth up and down with no luck. I have moved the template forward and back with no luck. The jig came with one dovetail bit. According to the manual it is the proper one. The template guide calls for 3/4" OD, which is what I am using. It is just off by a hair, but it is enough to give me a lot of headaches. Can anyone make some suggestions about what to look at to correct the problem?

[MBG]

I just tried out my 4212 last night. I had another jig before this one and couldn't believe how well this one worked out of the box. I made my samples out of oak veneer ply so I got some chipping but the fit was nice. I also found the fit to be quite tight but I think it's supposed to be that way. I put a board on top of the joint and hit it with a hammer to distribute the load. I used my Bosch router and a Bosch 3/4" template bushing. I might try the P-C template tonight to see if it makes a difference.

Based on others experience with this jig I ordered Whiteside router bits from Hartville - P/N's RD7531 and R1064A.

Mike

[Tarheel]

I tried out my 4212 yesterday as well. I was only successful with half-blind DT's though. They were pretty tight as well. Had to use my mallet to assemble, but they are pretty accurate. I was using the template guide and bit that came with the jig. (I was cutting DT's in poplar. Very little chip-out!)

I need to try the though DT's today. Just couldn't seem to get the tails and fingers to line up!!?? .....back to that great manual!!!! - It is my 1st experience with a DT jig!

Any tips for aligning the through dovetails would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Wayne

[Tarheel]

Took out the PC 4212 again today and true to form got really frustrated again! Whenever I am cutting either halfblind or thru DT's the joints are way, way tooooooo tight!!! I have tried adjusting the setback of the template to the guide lines and checked and double checked the router bit depth ,,,to no avail!

Does anyone out there know what I am doin' wrong?

Thanks in advance. This jig has gotten to be really frustrating!

Wayne

[JimD]

Wayne,

I have not used the PC4212 but I have managed to get good half-blind dovetails out of the two jigs I have. The tightness of half-blind dovetails is in the height of the bit. How are you setting this? I have reviewed the PC manual and I know it has a setup for this but I believe you have to get the bit set right once and then use that setup to adjust the station of the jig. I sometimes measure with a combination square and that will work. Even better is to take a piece of 3/4 scrap about 3x3 inches, cut a notch in the center about 2x2 and put a fine thread drywall screw into the center of the notch. Adjust the screw to be the height you want the bit to be and then use this little jig to setup your router bit.

Set the bit to be very shallow, at least 1/16 shallower than the instructions say and then see how tight the joint is. If it is still too tight, then I am wrong and it is your template guide or bit. You need to modify the guide (I bought a brass 1/2 inch one from Lee Valley that was too large to fit into 1/2 inch holes in a shelf pin jig so I filed it down a little) or get a new bit.

Jim

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Wow, this sounds like the mental melt down I had with my HF jig!
I have found the PC 4212 to be a breeze (not pouring salt in the wound).
My first joint was very tight. I raised the bit just a hair (1/32 or so per Bosch dial) and second was tight but right (perfect).
For those not using the included PC bushing, simply insert your bushing into area of the jig made for testing that aspect. I don't know why you wouldn't use the included bushing unless you don't have the RA1100 adapter. I highly recommend using the adapter included. I know that a 3/4" should be a 3/4" but who knows what special magic PC may have put in their bushing? LOL.
JimD, the 4212 kit includes the bushing and the bits, so I think the problem here is bit depth. I had to raise the bit to get nice fitting joints.
dlerwick and tarheel, try unlocking the lever on your Bosch router, turn the dial adjuster 2 full rotations, lock it back and try that. I really believe it is your bit height that is the problem here.

[Tarheel]

Guys. I use the Dewalt DW618 with the jig. I have using the PC supplied bushing as well as a set of brass bushings from Woodcraft. Sounds like I still need to play more with the bit depth of cut. (That jig for setting depth sounds like a viable option, JimD!)

Also, I may try changing the alignment of jig where the pin and tail boards meet. - The scribed line on the template(s) and see if that will loosen the joint a little. I don't think that I should have to hammer the joint together with brute force like I have been doing. - So tight that I don't think glue to stay in the joint!

I appreciate all of your responses!

Wayne

[bigsteel15]

Tried it out last night on a half blind. I was using a piece of scrap 1/2" BB and it took me 2 tries to realize to cut full depth (DUH!!) on the first pass.
The joint was extremely tight but the fit was very nice when together.
The only thing that confused me is that on 1/2" material, the pins have no curve to them becasue I'm cutting around the outside edge of the board.
Me thinks this means I cut too deep.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Also, I may try changing the alignment of jig where the pin and tail boards meet. - The scribed line on the template(s) and see if that will loosen the joint a little.

That will not affect the tightness of the joint. The router bit depth is where adjustments need to be made. If your joints are flush with no gaps when hammered together then the scribed line is set correctly.

[JR]

Jeffrey's right. For tightness problems adjust only the depth of the bit. A change of 1/32" will make a lot of difference.

Adjusting the fence will only affect whether the two pieces are flush with one another, too deep, or too shallow.

JR

[bigsteel15]

Tarheel

Tarheel, how are you making out on this?
I've been successful with the halfblinds by doing as other suggested and raising the bit to reflect about 3/8" cut depth on both 1/2" and 3/4" stock.
When I finally realized that the through DT template doesn't work as well for HB, everything is nice.
The problem I think everyone will have is doing through DT in 3/4" stock as the manual says can be done but with the bit they give you, I am ending up about 1/8" shy on the tails and 1/4" shy on the pins.
Maybe with a PC router one would not have this problem, I don't know. I think my Triton could go deep enough if I were to cut the Triton bushings down.

Does anyone know why non PC standard bushings are made so darn long?