Jointer question - Safety technique, small parts

**final_t** · 01-13-2006, 01:28 PM

If the wood is narrow (less than saw 2.5") then I hand plane it.
Otherwise, I do remove the swinging guard, and adjust the fence so only the smallest amount needed of the blades are exposed. And I use two push blocks to maintain control/distance.
One operation I've seen used is to either carpet-tape or hot-glue the board to a thicker one to ride through the guard. Sort of a reverse-carrier board that you often see in a thickness planer - you could do that there too.

**Tom Miller** · 01-13-2006, 02:30 PM

quote:Originally posted by quesne

My Ridgid jointer manual says I should not plane (i.e. face joint) wood which is less than 3/4" thick. It says the wood may get caught under the safety guard and cause kickback or some other dangerous situation.

Do other people follow this rule?

I wouldn't say I follow that rule, but the premise is definitely true. I use other methods to ensure the piece doesn't get caught under the guard, like strategic placement of push blocks/shoe, etc.

Regards,
Tom

**LarryG** · 01-13-2006, 02:51 PM

What Tom said, basically. I also have the Ridgid jointer, and I think the manual says not to plane thinner than 1/2"; I don't think I've gotten down that thin ... maybe 5/8". But IIRC even an unplaned 3/4" board from HD/Lowe's can slip under the guard. Like Tom, I have used the push blocks to shoulder the guide aside.

The manual further says nothing shorter than 12" and I'll daresay I've cheated on that by a couple inches or so. For edge jointing I've not tried anything thinner than I've planed; i.e., about 5/8". I think the manual says 1/4" minimum for edge jointing but I've seen David Marks edge-joint 3/32" veneers on his little HF jointer, so I wouldn't be afraid to cheat on that, either.

**JimD** · 01-13-2006, 03:40 PM

My jointer is also my planner and I normally use it in planner mode. It is an old INCA. The guard for the jointer mode is different - it is a sliding aluminum cover that you raise so that the wood can go under it. It does not pivot. I stopped looking at the manual a decade or more ago so I do not know what it says. I have planned material 1/8 inch or a bit less. I would only limit face jointing by what would be too flexible to handle in this fashion. 1/4 inch should be fine.

I am not saying to do this on a jointer that is made differently, just telling you what I do.

I would not put a board less than around a foot through either mode. It has to be long enough you can handle it safely from one side of the jointer to the next. Less than the full length will be fully supported as you move your hands and little short stuff could "escape" with bad results. I do not worry about the width. I will joint a board edge 1/4 inch wide. I would not try to joint a 1/4 inch square piece but I would put it through the planner - and I have when making some pegs. The only issue with the jointer is the wood is so flexible it's hard to get an even cut.

I have not used a jointer like you have in years but I think the issue is how big a board you need to reliably knock the guard out of the way. That is something to listen to the manual about - or at least try a dry run with the motor off before you do it with the motor on. My guard does not move which makes the size of the piece less important.

I would also hessitate to joint or plane small pieces unless the grain of the board behaved well and the wood species was not prone to splitting. I have had a piece fracture during these operations and it isn't the end of the world but I try to avoid it. You can end up with a little piece that could get caught and launch itself.

Jim

**Pappy** · 01-13-2006, 06:33 PM

Same problem exists with my HF jointer. I am wondering how to attach an add on fence for the times I need to go thiner than the fence allows.

Jointer question - Safety technique, small parts

Jointer question - Safety technique, small parts

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