Shop floor

[gabedad]

Hello,

1st time poster here. Been lurking for a while and have a bts-15. I have a 13x15 shed that I am setting up as a shop. The floor is a bit warped in places and I really do not want to tear the whole thing up. I was thinking about puting another layer of 3/4 plywood over it.

anyones thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Jeff

[Ken Weaver]

Welcome aboard Jeff, have fun and be safe. As to the floor, new plywood might help, but you still may have to level the saw stand. As long as you get things stable and secure so things are safe is the important thing. Once you find the "right" spot for the saw, mark it and make sure that's where you set it up each time.

[LarryG]

Howdy and welcome, Jeff.

The first thing you need to determine is WHY the existing floor is warped, and whether it's an old problem that's not getting any worse or a continuing problem that is. If the floor framing is too small or inadeqately supported by the shed's foundation, another layer of plywood could make the problem worse by increasing the dead load on those framing members. If the warping is due to moisture, a common problem with wood floors built too close to the ground, the new layer of plywood might solve the problem for the short run but in time will likely warp just like the original.

OTOH if the warping is due to conditions that are no longer a factor, then you could nail the existing plywood down as securely as you can and put another layer down over the top, with shims and/or sleepers where needed to make the new layer flat.

[Mainemarc]

Welcome Jeff!

And, ah, about your floor: what Larry said.

[Tom Miller]

It would take you about 7 pcs of ply. I don't recall what 3/4 ply is going for nowadays, but at $30/sheet you would be looking at ~$200. Personally, I wouldn't put that $$ into it without being more sure of a positive outcome.

If the warping isn't too bad, you can always shim the legs of tools as needed and live with it. Otherwise, put in the effort that Larry suggested, and you'll probably feel a lot better about the outcome.

Regards,
Tom

[mater]

Covering it with new plywood may be a short term solution. I would not cover a warped floor without finding out why it warped. Larry's answer is right on the money.

[gabedad]

I think the floor is warped in places to to the setting og the shed on cinder blocks. I did not put this up - I bought the house a year and a half ago and the shed came with it. The thing is too big to move and since it was built on site the foor would have to be cut out to put a new one in. Plus I'm sure there were critters living under there at some point and I really don't want to see what's under it.

Thanks for all the responses and the welcome's. The long and the short of it is I am going to put another floor over the old one. If it takes another ten to twenty years to warp like the first one- so be it - I will deal with it then.

Thanks again

[LarryG]

I will confess to having used the "This will fix the problem for as long as *I* have to worry about it" approach a few times myself.

After nailing down the existing plywood to flatten it as best you can, cover it with a layer of 30 lb. building felt. Then, if you can stand the additional thickness, nail down some pressure-treated 2x2s at 16" OC, preferably at right-angles to the original framing. Then apply your new sheathing over that. Two layers of 5/8" make the best subfloor but if you use only one layer, 3/4" is the ticket.

In addition to separating your new plywood from the existing, the 2x2s can be shimmed where necessary to make the new floor nice and level.

[gabedad]

Thanks larry - good idea.

I think it has settled to the point of not going anywhere so I think I can get it pretty level now

Thanks again. I probably be doing this in a month or so - have to have carpal tunnel surgery before moving all this wood around

[gabedad]

well we decided to take up the old floor

first we jacked up the one side of the shed to get it level - Only had to put 6" of wood under it to get it level![:0]

Next - no studs inbetween the joists - we are going to add 4 in between each pair of joists. Will then lay down 3/4 PT plywood construction adhesive and then 1/2 plywood - one side sanded. Should be much more solid then.

After that I have to rehang one of the doors because it does not line up anymore- hmm wonder why?