Out of curiousity, what is involved in switching an outlet from 110v to 220v? What would be an approximate cost involved? I guess I should have been smarter when my electrician was running 2 20amp lines into the garage - he asked me "are you sure you won't need a 220v line?".
-
-
It really depends on what's there. Normally a 220V outlet needs 3 conductors plus a ground, whereas a 110V needs only 2 plus a ground, so you probably have to redo the wiring. Also, 220V outlets are usually rated higher (e.g. 30A) so you'd have to redo the wiring anyway.
-Tim -
The problem is a 220V line is would be at least 30 amps and would require an increase in wiring gauge. Also you would need to check for space in your breaker box. 220v lines take up 2 adjacent spaces. Finally the recepticles would need to be changed to accomodate the type you need for your equipment.Opinions are like gas;
I don't mind hearing it, but keep it to yourself if it stinks.
Comment
-
Ouch, ouch <kicking myself in the arse>... should have done it when the electician made a suggestion.Comment
-
The circuit size would not have to be 30 amps actually. You can run a 15, 20, 30, 50, 60, or whatever amperage you require. Just make sure your wire is the proper guage for the ampacity of the circuit. In general, 14AWG wire is good for 15 amps, 12AWG wire is good for 20 amps, etc.quote:Originally posted by maxparot
The problem is a 220V line is would be at least 30 amps and would require an increase in wiring gauge. Also you would need to check for space in your breaker box. 220v lines take up 2 adjacent spaces. Finally the recepticles would need to be changed to accomodate the type you need for your equipment.Monte (another darksider)
Reporting Live from somewhere near Kalamazoo
http://community.webshots.com/user/monte49002Comment
-
What I'm thinking of doing in my shop is running 12/3 to all the boxes, then spliting the outlets so they're on opposite legs. That way if I need 220 any place in the shop, all I have to do is change the outlet.Bob
Bad decisions make good stories.Comment
-
Be careful and think about what you are doing here. Make sure that the 220 V outlet/plugs you will use will fit into the boxes you are planning on installing. A little pre-planning will avoid problems down the road when you want to make a change. Also -- those 220 V, 20 Amp plugs and receptacles are very pricy babies.quote:Originally posted by BobSch
What I'm thinking of doing in my shop is running 12/3 to all the boxes, then spliting the outlets so they're on opposite legs. That way if I need 220 any place in the shop, all I have to do is change the outlet.Your Faithful Woodworking Geek,
DoogusComment
-
I think it's just a matter of installing a 220 breaker and connecting the wires in the panel to that instead. Then, you need to change the outlet receptacles -- there are specific ones for 220V 20A. If you have more than one outlet on this circuit, change them all. Like Monte said, make sure the breaker amperage matches your wire (20A?).
Regards,
Tom
Comment
-
I'm not sure there's any reason to run 12/3. Most stationary tools on which the motor can be switched from 110V to 220V will have black-white-green conductors when you cut the plug off, and will rewire for 220V without a neutral. The only time you should need three conductors would be when you have a hardwired tool with a chassis ground.quote:Originally posted by BobSch
What I'm thinking of doing in my shop is running 12/3 to all the boxes, then spliting the outlets so they're on opposite legs. That way if I need 220 any place in the shop, all I have to do is change the outlet.LarryComment
-
First thing I would do is measure the voltage difference between the hot wires on the two lines you have. You may be surprissed to find that there is 220 volts between the two wires!
Most houses are supplies with 220 volts which comes in the form of what appear to be two hot wires. Between them you get 220 volts, but between each hot wire and ground you get 110 volts. If you circuits were installed with both comming from the same hot wire comming into the house, then you will see zero volts between the hot lines on the two circuits. If they come from both hot lines you have 220.
If the 220 is there, it is easy to tap it, but check on what the codes are be sure you know what you are doing. 220 volts is a real KILLER, all things considered, it is probably the most dangerous voltage you can tangle with.
Mike
Comment
-
Ummm, yes... I will never forget one specific night as a kid in Lithuania. I recall in the dark trying to plug in a lamp and all of a sudden... bam! Got a jolt of a lifetime.quote:Originally posted by gonesailing
220 volts is a real KILLER, all things considered, it is probably the most dangerous voltage you can tangle with.Comment
-
Um, not to sound like a jerk but frankly there's some SCARY advice in some of the responses above. I strongly advise you to call in the electrician again and get his opinion.
Saving a few bucks isn't worth burning down your house.
As I pointed out above, you'll most likely need a larger wire guage and an additonal hot wire. Some of the "you can probably use what you have" comments above are simply scary.
-TimComment
-
Well, that depends on what you're trying to run, doesn't it? An air conditioner or a range or a dryer -- yes. But with the small induction motors that power the typical wood shop tools, the amperage draw is moderate even at 110V and halves when you run it at 220V. So the wire gauge can actually be smaller. And as I said earlier, there is usually no provision for a neutral.quote:Originally posted by tfischer
As I pointed out above, you'll most likely need a larger wire guage and an additonal hot wire.LarryComment
-
That is what I thought the advantage of using 220 instead of 110 was. The amperage is split and is less per leg allowing smaller gauge wire.quote:Originally posted by LarryG
Well, that depends on what you're trying to run, doesn't it? An air conditioner or a range or a dryer -- yes. But with the small induction motors that power the typical wood shop tools, the amperage draw is moderate even at 110V and halves when you run it at 220V. So the wire gauge can actually be smaller. And as I said earlier, there is usually no provision for a neutral.quote:Originally posted by tfischer
As I pointed out above, you'll most likely need a larger wire guage and an additonal hot wire.
When I wired my shop (with help) I used 10 ga for everything except the lights. Two outlets per circut. If I need 220 I just change the breaker and outlets. So far I have converted 2 circuts.Jim in Texas and Sicko Ryobi Cult Member ©Comment
-
Tim,quote:Originally posted by tfischer
Um, not to sound like a jerk but frankly there's some SCARY advice in some of the responses above. I strongly advise you to call in the electrician again and get his opinion.
Saving a few bucks isn't worth burning down your house.
As I pointed out above, you'll most likely need a larger wire guage and an additonal hot wire. Some of the "you can probably use what you have" comments above are simply scary.
-Tim
Believe me, if it comes down to it, I had no intention of doing it myself. Electricity is one thing I don't mess with.Comment
Comment